S&W M27 problem

[1911WB]

Got that newly acquired M27-2 out to the range for the first time today and encountered a problem. While it generally fired OK and has a good trigger pull. A couple of times a pull from cocked condition resulted in the hammer only falling part way & obviously not firing. Recocking resulted in a normal single action pull. The ammo I was shooting was Rem. factory 125 gr. semi-jacketed. Then I tried a cyl. of Speer 140 grn JHP. After two shots the cyl. locked up and I couldn't get it open nor cock the hammer. When I got home, I was able to open it up with some difficulty, but no harm. Does anyone have any idea what could be wrong? Could the strain screw be too tight or am I "straining" for a simple explanation? :banghead:

 

[unspellable]

S&W 28 hang up

If by "strain" screw you mean the main spring tension screw at the bottom of the grip front strap, it should be screwed all the way in. It is not an adjustment, it is there to relieve tension on the main spring for dissassembly and reassembly. Some people try to reduce the trigger pull, hammer pull etc by backing this screw out but that's an example of bad practice.

The side plate should be removed by gently tapping the grip area of the frame with a mallet to jar the side plate loose. Do this over a terry cloth towel to catch it. prying the side plate off will bugger it up at the top end.

Once off, you should be able to see most of the lock work and its movements, or lack there of. Look to see if there are any loose objects such as metal fragments, caked on crud, or improper lubrication to cause a hangup. Then you can look for any actual defects in the lockwork.

 

[Standing Wolf]

Several possibilities:

1. The ejector rod has backed out slightly, which can lock up the cylinder. If there's any rotational play in the ejector rod, it's loose. The solution is to take it all apart, clean it within an inch of its life, and use a droplet of nail polish to secure the rod in place when you reassemble the cylinder.

2. It's possible to lock up the action of most Smith & Wesson double action revolvers. Make sure the gun is unloaded. Cock the hammer. Keeping your thumb on the hammer, pull the tigger. Allow the hammer to fall about an eighth of an inch. Take your finger off the tigger. There's a better than even chance both hammer and trigger are now locked in place. Pull the hammer back again, and everything's suddenly unlocked.

3. If the hammer doesn't fall all the way when the trigger is pulled normally, something is wrong inside the gun. There's about a 90% chance it's just dirty. If it's not just dirty, the gun probably needs professional attention.

4. Strain screws can't be set too tight, because they stop turning when they're all the way tight. They can be backed out too much by people who don't understand why the main spring is adjustable and how to do it right. When in doubt, call the good folks at Wolff and replace the main spring.

5. Most used guns are either dirty inside or filthy.

 

[1911WB]

Thanks for advice on M27

Based on the advice received on my M27's problems I checked the mainspring tension screw and found that it was not fully tightened down. After fully tightening it I dry fired a number of times using snap caps, and the operation seemed perfect. Hopefully, the problem is solved. Thanks.

 

[thatguy]

May also need cleaning. In my experience a revolver that's been around awhile can get gunked up pretty badly with grit, dried oil and grease, lint etc causing malfunctions and misfires. If you are not comfortable doing a complete cleaning of the internals take it to a gunsmith for a thorough washing. Setting the screw may have cured the immediate problem but there may still be a problem with cleanliness. Backing that screw out a little usually won't cause the hammer to stick. So it was either way out or the gun is gummy inside contributing to the stickiness.