S&W Mod 15 needs help
- Thread starter Mike L.
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35 Whelen
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"Drags" on two cylinders (hard to turn). Can't see a bend anywhere. Cylinder/barrel gap looks ok. (Don't have feeler gages)
I can do simple mods to modern plastic guns, and 1911's, but I know my limitations. I really like this revolver and I want to shoot it.
I can do simple mods to modern plastic guns, and 1911's, but I know my limitations. I really like this revolver and I want to shoot it.
When you say drags on two cylinders, do you mean on two chambers? I would first check under the extractor to see if you have accumulated fouling or dirt. Check that the locating pins for extractor are still present. These small pins sometimes are lost but are easily replaced. Without the pins the extractor will move slightly and could cause dragging.
If the previous owner had the habit of flipping the cylinder closed like they do in the movies the yoke may have been bent. A good gunsmith should have the gauges to check for it.
If the previous owner had the habit of flipping the cylinder closed like they do in the movies the yoke may have been bent. A good gunsmith should have the gauges to check for it.
35 Whelen
Member
Years ago I had a Smith Model 25 that was doing that very thing. I just knew that I had ruined it shooting heavy handloads. Finally I found that a flake of unburned powder under the extractor that was causing the problem. So, I'd check for trash etc. in that area.
35W
Chambers, not cylinders.
Start by cleaning it, and pay attention to under the extractor star, and in the bolt ("cylinder stop") passage. Use a toothbrush. Next, remove the forward screw and slide the crane out so you can remove the cylinder and clean the crane/cylinder interface up front. Reassemble.
By now you should be able to identify where the problem is. Gunsmith recommendations will vary: one sort to perform a good cleaning, another sort to competently 'smith a Smith.
If you get to Greenville, I'm happy to look at it for you.
Check the cylinder face as well. Many years back, while I was a leo, my agency ordered a substantial number of M/66's. A number of those guns had noticable drag on some, but not all chambers. Problem was debris build up and a minimal gap between forcing cone and cylinder face. Slightly relieving the cyl/bbl gap solved the issue.
OP
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Yes, chambers. Forgive me. Gun is clean, Cylinder locating pins are present and look correct. I can see gap between forcing cone and cylinder all the way around. Crane is fitting nicely to frame. I am wondering if something is wrong with the lock works internally, but I know very little about how to approach that area. That's why I am seeking a pro.
35 Whelen
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Mr. 35 Whelan, I have cleaned that area 3 or 4 times to no avail. I have noticed that when one of the "bad" chambers is in line with the barrel, the cylinder latch takes extra effort to operate, and there is a bit of difficulty in swinging out the cylinder.
Old_Grouch
Member
Check to see if your ejector rod is screwed in tight. Having backed out a bit could account for the cylinder latch requiring a bit of extra oomph. A bent ejector rod would cause that also.
ontarget
Member
Yup, I bet you have a bent ejector rod.
My 1930ish Hand Ejector did the exact same thing. Some dumby probably was slamming the cylinder shut or maybe dropped it, or maybe even forced it open if the rod unscrewed a little bit. Cheap fix as I found a new ejector rod at Gunparts Corp
( Numrich) and changed it myself.
ontarget
Member
Any is too much. Pull out the ejector rod and roll it on a table. I bet it's bent.
First check to see if the ejector rod is tight. They will back off. If it is, to remove the center pin put a couple of empty cases in the cylinder. I believe the ejector rod is left hand threaded. (It's been 35 years since I took the armory's course and I don't remember if it was the late or early ones that were left handed). Don't lose the center pin spring. Wrap a piece of leather around the ejector rod to keep from scaring it. If the rod or pin are bent replace them. The pin has to be hand fitted to the gun so that when the thumb latch is all the way forward the pin is flush with the end of the ejector rod. Too short it won't open, too long hard to close.
aaaaa
Member
I had some drag on my 44 Magnum revolver and found a nick in the cylinder had pushed material into the seating area so that the cartridge would not full seat but sat a hair or so higher than the other chambers. I filed off the obstruction and the cartridges now seat properly.
Less likely, but a high primer might cause some drag, but that would end with the next reload unless you had some really bad ammo with lots of high primers. Even so, it would not all be the same chamber.
Less likely, but a high primer might cause some drag, but that would end with the next reload unless you had some really bad ammo with lots of high primers. Even so, it would not all be the same chamber.
Old_Grouch
Member
The early ones were right-hand. The -1 was the engineering change of right to left in 1959 for the Model 15.
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35 Whelen
Member
Well, anybody want to guess what Numrich is sold out on? FML
I'd just like to know what FML is.
35W
ontarget
Member
Well, anybody want to guess what Numrich is sold out on? FML
Did you possibly try S&W for your parts? They still make K frames so it's possible they might have one?
35 Whelen
Member
Still not following you. When I say I'm SOL, I just say I'm SOL. Anyhow, if you're looking for parts for your S&W K Frame, look no further than Jack First Gun Parts. I ordered some hand torsion springs for my Model 10's a couple of weeks ago and they arrived FAST.
35W
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