S&w model 10-5 vs. Ruger Security Six

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Even though I prefer S&W over Ruger and .38 Special over .357 Magnum, I say keep the Ruger. It will be harder and more expensive to replace. There are millions of Model 10's out there.
 
That would be a very tough decision as I really like both. But, I would have to let the Model 10 go. My reason, Model 10's appear for sale all the time, Six series Rugers are seldom on the market. At least around here, you would be able to get another Model 10 whenever you're ready.
 
I'm another one in favor of keeping the Security Six. A well built gun with a modern, modular design.I would love to have just one of them back that I had years ago.
 
If I were only going to just have one of the two you mentioned , it would be the Security six. A better all- around gun. I like the balance of the sixes better than the new Rugers. My speed six is my carry gun while working around the farm or out riding my favorite mule.
 
I am not sentimental about either gun but do think the choice specimens of the S&W 10 would make the more valuable collector safe queens.

I looked up a lot of information on both and found them both rather odd looking in today's terms. The newer underlug guns from S&W look aesthetically more balanced. The old ones are kind of goofy to my eye for more contemporary guns.

The Ruger especially looks so overbuilt and unbalanced without the GP100's full underlug.

The S&W is not certified for even .38 Spl +P to my knowledge, so at best would be a target gun, yet lacks the adjustable sight one would want for that.

This is kind of like telling someone their baby is ugly, but I seem to have a eye for how things look and the vice of stating what I really think.
 
One more chance for the model 10 today, but I think it is going to go.

Now the next hard part... how much do I try to sell it for?

I am terrible at this whole pricing thing. I look around and see them anywhere from 300-550.
 
One more chance for the model 10 today, but I think it is going to go.

Now the next hard part... how much do I try to sell it for?

I am terrible at this whole pricing thing. I look around and see them anywhere from 300-550.

When I look on Gunbroker, it is unmistakable that great pictures command the best price. Get all the scratches polished out. Get the barrel shining like a mirror. Put some snazzy grips on it. Make 'em pay.
 
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I am not sentimental about either gun but do think the choice specimens of the S&W 10 would make the more valuable collector safe queens.

I looked up a lot of information on both and found them both rather odd looking in today's terms. The newer underlug guns from S&W look aesthetically more balanced. The old ones are kind of goofy to my eye for more contemporary guns.

The Ruger especially looks so overbuilt and unbalanced without the GP100's full underlug.

The S&W is not certified for even .38 Spl +P to my knowledge, so at best would be a target gun, yet lacks the adjustable sight one would want for that.

This is kind of like telling someone their baby is ugly, but I seem to have a eye for how things look and the vice of stating what I really think.

I can't remember ever hearing anyone call the Model 10 ugly. It has beautiful lines. Classic revolvers look much better than the full lug modern ones (IMHO) and that goes for most people I know

As far as the Security Six not looking good, well we will have to agree to disagree

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MK70ss said it all,,,

but those are two absolutely equal guns and it comes down to personal preference, nothing more.

Maybe a bit simplified,,,
But in essence he's spot on.

Whichever one makes your smile the biggest when you handle it,,,
That's the one you should keep.

Well, I am going to the range to shoot both (again). At this rate, I am going to end up keeping both...

There ya go,,,
Problem is solved. ;)

Aarond
 
Selling an out of production revolver to pay for a financed, in production shotgun?
The interest can't be that bad.
Keep em both.
 
Hmmmm... Ruger or a Smith...

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Keep 'em both if you can.

I kept these two above. Either will do to ride the river with. And together they make a pair.

Deaf
 
No man can decide your personal preferences for you but the following make sense to me;

...nod toward .357, every revolver guy should have a .357.

...less Ruger "Six" series made, and by a long shot.

... Ruger is indeed strong and durable.

I take exception to the following;

...better steel in the Ruger, Huh? Forged frame vs. cast, S&W top shelf for metallurgy for many decades? Where did this come from?

...Mod 10 not +P capable, another new one on me. They have been digesting a steady diet of loads at the pressures common to modern +P sine the 1920's.

One is simply designed for .357, the other is not. The allusion to the Mod 19's (.357 K frame) "infirmities" is widely misunderstood. There are no such significant infirmities in the Mod. 19 until light (125 gr., 110 gr.) bullets are loaded and those issues have to do with velocity as it impacts hot gas handling. The lighter loads came after the design of the 19 and can indeed introduce forcing cone issues. The K frame .357 forcing cone is "truncated" at the bottom. When you move from a spacious home like an N frame to smaller quarters, sometimes something has to go. Even powerful magnums of the time do quite well in the 19 until you mess with the engineers by introducing the much lighter bullets. This is a straw man argument anyway as the man has a 10 and it's 38 spl.

No-one will ever get my 10-5 with a Clark Custom service action job out of my hands. But I do love the .357 and the Ruger "Sixes" are great revolvers and harder to find. Regardless of what you hear, there are no flies on a Smith Mod 10 and that's how they came to number in the millions. You will never equal the custom tweaked action of my Smith in a Ruger either.
 
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Some of the appearance issues I mentioned are far more apparent in the longer barreled guns.

+P is a matter of certification or shoot at your own risk. The older model 10 does not have +P stamped on the barrel does it? What would S&W say if you asked whether it was okay to shoot +P ammo in an old 10-5.

I don't shoot +P because I read it on the internet, any more than I use loads with no professional references.
 
RealGun,

I respect conservatism in the use of arms and will also respect your personal opinions and decisions. I however would not hesitate to load +p from reputable makers, have done so many times and have had no issues. I do not believe there is a significant issue with using them in a Mod 10 in good repair, but each man decides for himself and prudence is a virtue.

That being said, I think it more accurate to refrain from saying they are not capable of doing so unless you personally know it to be true.
 
The Ruger may or may not be made of stronger steel, but it does have a stronger frame design. That much cannot be debated.
 
S&W will tell you that +P is fine in model marked, steel, K frame revolvers.

Personally, if I had to choose between the two, I would go with the Ruger, for the reasons already mentioned, but the 10 is an excellent choice as well.

However, I would never sell an out of production revolver in order to buy a current production shotgun.
 
That being said, I think it more accurate to refrain from saying they are not capable of doing so unless you personally know it to be true.

Check the quote. I wrote "not certified", which would not include merely opinions on the internet. Actually, I am the one who is correct. I just mention it as a strike against recommending the Model 10 as a choice over the .357 Ruger. What others do with guns they already own is their business.
 
One thing to consider is a quiet history of forcing cone cracking on the K-frame, primarily the .357 Model 19, after too many 125gr .357 mag loads, as documented by returned police revolvers over the years. I also had an older (1950's) snub S&W Model 10 crack the forcing cone after some obviously too hot +P loads; just a bad combination of too hot loads and too weak revolver. As long as you keep use around the standard pressure loadings, I think the guns will last longer. The Ruger seems to be beefier in the frame and forcing cone on the Security Six, over the S&W K frames.
 
The Security Six is the finest of the .357 magnum revolvers in my opinion. The perfect blend of size, weight, toughness and accuracy. Adjustable sights and modern, modular internals. Everything you need in a revolver.

The Model 10, on the other hand, is a run-of-the-mill .38 SPL. Not bad, but not great. It is average by definition.

It's a no brainer to me. Stick with the Ruger for sure.
 
RealGun,

You have a point, I did not make it at all clear that the comment was toward any who would say that the gun was not +p capable. Call Smith and Wesson and see if they will certify it or trust that Lucky Derby has your answer. Otherwise yours is also just an opinion on the internet.

Pardon my lack of clarity, but every man has a right to his opinion- not a right to be wrong in his "facts". Not directed specifically at you but anyone making the incorrect statement that they are not +p capable.

Some appreciate the potential for a much better action in the Smith, some do not value this. If being the industry dominating standard around the world for decades is what run of the mill means, then I agree with NoirFan.

BTW in my first post I came down in favor of keeping the Ruger for the reasons stated, but not in favor of underestimating the Mod 10.
 
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Did anyone say the model 10 was not +P capable? Personally, I stated to the effect that the gun is not certified. I believed that to be pretty factual, since S&W went to some lengths to stamp all their .38 barrels "+P", if they wanted to stand behind use of that load level.
 
Did anyone say the model 10 was not +P capable? Personally, I stated to the effect that the gun is not certified. I believed that to be pretty factual, since S&W went to some lengths to stamp all their .38 barrels "+P", if they wanted to stand behind use of that load level.
What do you mean by "certified" S&W's website list the model 10 as +P rated? Other than the lock what difference is there in the different ages of model 10s that would make the OPs different in +p rating than the model below?

I think it is safe to say the model 10 is + p "certified" when S&W says it is ok

http://www.smith-wesson.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product4_750001_750051_766346_-1_757769_757767_757751_ProductDisplayErrorView_Y
 
Pizza,

Forgive us ignoring your question while we squabble but such is life in the forums. Valuing a used "classic" revolver is a dicey thing. You could have recently bought a police buy back "rode hard and put away wet" Mod 10 for about $300.00 all told. Not pretty but fully functional. On the other hand my very pretty 10-5 with custom work could not be had for $ 500.00, not close. A lot depends on variables and condition is everything in the used revolver world.

P.S. By variables I mean;

Square butt or round butt?
Barrel length?
Heavy barrel or "pencil" barrel?
Grips?
Condition, determining this is in itself an art.

The bottom line is it would be dishonest to give a specific answer without a full examination and even then "anything is only worth what you can get another man to pay" in this game.

Good luck!
 
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