S&W model 17 full underlug?

[La Pistoletta]

Is there anything in the model name/variation (17-3, 17-5 etc) of a S&W model 17 that gives it a full underlug? Or how do you get that otherwise?

I'd prefer a model 617 10-shot but it's too expensive here.

Poster "gggman" claimed, in another thread, that the following is his S&W 17 10-shot 6 inch:



Was that some sort of limited/custom edition (referring to the 10-shot drum and full underlug) or is it still possible to get?

I want a revolver but I just need the full underlug and 6 inch barrel, otherwise it doesn't look the way I prefer it.

 

[JohnBT]

I believe you want a 17-6 or later for the underlug. Here's a detailed explanation of the model history. IIRC the full underlug started in 1989 and the 10-shot cylinder began 7 or 8 years later.

www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=249332

John

 

[La Pistoletta]

That's certainly useful information, thanks. Should make it a bit easier to verify if the models I happen to find are those I want. There are a few being sold in this country that don't have the number affix displayed after the 17 online though, is the 17-x visible on the revolver itself or only in the manual?

 

[belus]

The model number will be on the frame just in front of the cylinder.

This is a S&W 29-2

 

[20nickels]

This is from memory..

What you want is a model 17-8. They have an aluminum 10 shot cylinder. They are a bit rare on account of their production was only from 1996-1998, so there aren't very many around. They are considered the "least collectible" of the K-22's because of the alloy cylinder although I can find no accounts of them being a detriment to the guns function, I'm hoping an actual expert will post here. I am hoping to capitalize on this and purchase one cheaply for a lighter weight woods gun. Nickels.

 

[kle]

I have a 17-8, 10-shot, 6" w/ alloy/aluminum cylinder...and no, the lighter cylinder doesn't affect the gun's function. It does affect the weight, however, being 5oz lighter than my 617-6, 10-shot, 6" w/ [stainless] steel cylinder. I like the heavier variant better, and I wish a full-blue-steel 17 10-shot 6" full-underlug version was made.

I've got a lead on another 17-8 10-shot 6" on AR15.com that I wanted to put a scope on, but the guy has stopped responding to my PMs. That, and I just paid for a 617-4 10-shot 6" (like my 617-6, but without The Lock), so I'm broke for the next few months anyhow.

http://ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=7&f=88&t=544030

 

[La Pistoletta]

I guess I could go for a 6-round drum. If the 17-8 and 9 are rare in general, they're probably nonexistant here.

kle: the full underlug helps to counteract the lack of weight a bit though, doesn't it?

 

[kle]

there's a 17-9? I'd like to see one, if there is...

the full-underlug does help a bit: my 17-8 is about 40oz unloaded, and my 617-6 is about 45oz unloaded.

But that 5oz difference is pretty noticeable, especially when I'm shooting rapid-fire bullseye (5 rounds in 10 seconds at 25 yards)--the 617 is more stable, doesn't wobble as much (yeah, it's more my hold than the gun, though). The balance point is slightly different, too (I believe the 17-8 is even more muzzle heavy than the 617, because more of the weight is now distributed in the muzzle). I'd have to pull the scope off my 17-8 to verify that, but I think that's right.

 

[La Pistoletta]

So the only 10-shot drums for the 17 are aluminum? What about the 17-7?

 

[kle]

I dunno...

http://smith-wessonforum.com/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/530103904/m/6891031003
http://smith-wessonforum.com/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/530103904/m/8281019772

looks like the 17-7s were steel cylinder, 6-shot only. The 17-8s were the only ones with a 10-shot aluminum cylinder (except for special Performance Center 17-8s). Then you've got earlier 617s with 10-shot aluminum cylinders, and I've seen two: a 617-2 on GunBroker.com that the owner decided to keep, and one on GunsAmerica.com that I was looking at as well -- http://www.gunsamerica.com/94885876...mith_Wesson_Model_617_10_Shot_22_Revolver.htm

I don't suppose it'd be possible to have a gun shipped out of the US to Sweden, though...

 

[La Pistoletta]

I don't suppose it'd be possible to have a gun shipped out of the US to Sweden, though...

It's possible but it carries with it a number of additional fees, including the biggest one for 25% on the total cost (standard Swedish goods/import tax) and it takes some paper work and time. Since there are new 617's with steel/steel frame/cylinder available here, it's not necessary. Some guy saved $1200 on a .44 Deagle by doing it, though, since they and their mags are hugely overpriced here.

There are some unspecified model 17's for sale, I'll have to call the sellers and ask for the specific generation. If it's 6 or newer, I guess I'm golden. Of course, since it'd be my first gun, I'm not only unable to properly check its quality but it's also gonna take about 8 months to get the license. But I like to be prepared and knowing what to look for.

I've been recommended against a revolver as my first gun by a few Swedes, since they claim I'll have a harder time competing. Some clubs require participation in contests to count as being "active" and thus avoid losing one's license. Don't know if that's true for my local club yet.

But I figure, if I don't get a revolver in .22 I won't get to shoot revolvers much at all, and I want to shoot a revolver.

 

[kle]

well...that thumb-cocking is going to be annoying if you're shooting for accuracy under time-constraints--I can juuust get 5 shots in 10 seconds at 25 yards, and that's by thumb-cocking the first shot before the buzzer. Doing it this way leaves me one or two spare seconds when shooting bullseye, in case a round doesn't light on the first try and I want to attempt to re-fire it.

You could shoot it double-action, but accuracy will tend to suffer unless you 'stage' the trigger. Not too hard to do with a little practice.

So yeah, a 17-6, -7, or -8 will have a full-barrel-underlug (good for recoil control), the -8 will have a 10-shot cylinder (good for not needing to reload as often). Plus, 10 shots will work out to 5 reloads per 50-round box.

Then you could get one of these speedloaders to make reloading even faster: http://groups.msn.com/Speedloader

 

[gggman]

Poster "gggman" claimed, in another thread, that the following is his S&W 17 10-shot 6 inch:

That would be me, and yes, that is a model 17-8.
Evidently it is an aluminum cylinder, though you would never know by the heft of the gun. It's pretty heavy. I've fired thousands of rounds through it, and it has held up well. No noticable wear at all.

 

[La Pistoletta]

I'd be lucky to find any model of the 6th, 7th or 8th generation here so I'll probably take what I can find if one shows up.

I don't suppose those speedloaders are available for a 6-shot?

Edit: Apparently there is one for S&W 6-shot K frame. Both 617 and 17 are K frame, right? And those rounds sure look like .22's. That's great, might order some later on then. I'll probably get some curious looks and questions, hehe.

 

[Moonclip]

17 and 617 are K frame. And yes 6 shot speedloaders exist for them.

 

[La Pistoletta]

I guess using moonclips with rimmed ammo would cause some problems?

 

[Moonclip]

I've never heard of a moonclip setup using .22lr ammunition. I have seen moonclip setups with .357magnum revolvers though, those cases have a rim though that rim contains no priming like in a .22lr.

And I think the cylinder has to be modified.

I only own revolvers using moonclips in 9x19 and .45acp.

 

[20nickels]

Mooncliping a 22 revo is asking for problems.
Kle,
I, and many others find that they shoot better double action. Nickels.

 

[kle]

I, and many others find that they shoot better double action. Nickels.

I actually tried that a few times during Bullseye, and found my accuracy wasn't that much different (or any worse) than if I single-action-ed it the whole way. But I felt a lot better knowing that all my trigger finger was doing was dropping the hammer.

 

[20nickels]

I think that's just it with me. It's the fact that I don't know when the hammer is going to break and do not flinch at the last second. S&W revos have excellent lock time.