S&W model 27 Old or New?

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Good question about whether there's checking on top of the 627 I own one and never noticed it I'll have to take a look in the morning.
For some reason I thought the diamond cut checkering on the top ended after the model 27-2

So Driftwood and everybody what does make so many people want the model 27-2 or earlier rather than later iterations?
 
So Driftwood and everybody what does make so many people want the model 27-2 or earlier rather than later iterations?

I am not going to speculate on what makes other shooters prefer a particular model.

However, I do note that the recessed cylinder and pinned barrel were eliminated from the Model 27 with the 27-3 engineering changes in 1982. That may have something to do with it.
 
Yep that's right driftwood how could I forget:thumbup:
Do you think those are significant factors in improving the function of the gun or are they overrated?
 
A pinned barrel looks fine but means zilch to me as far as shootability. I actually prefer non-recessed chambers (except on a rimfire) because the cylinder is easier to clean and I can tell at a glance from the side if there are cartridges in the cylinder.
 
I really don't have much to add other than a picture of my two 27-2 5"s. The experts have spoken and I am always thankful for all I am able to learn here.

I love reading Skeeter books so finding a 5" Model 27 was a must. As luck would have it, I found two. They were both found from folks my hometown which makes them even more special. I live near the sea, so the fact they have no rust is a miracle.

I really enjoy shooting them. the large frame tames recoil and I find the 5" barrel perfect for hiking in the woods, shooting in the desert, or going for an afternoon hog hunt when I am in Texas. They are from a different era, one I wish I could go back to.

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This one was issued to me during the first week of the academy 1981. My department went to the “wonder nines” in the early 2000’s but us old f***ts were grandfathered and allowed to keep and carry our wheel guns.
In 2016 I let the rumor get out I was going to retire. I got an email from the operations lieutenant that I had to turn my Model 28 in or reimburse the department $200. When I retired in 2017 no one asked for the pistol or the money. I still have both. :cool:
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I have a 5" M27-2 and a M28 6", the 686-1 is 6" as well. I load two levels for the 27/28. An all around load at 1200 fps and a full power load at 1450 fps both with 160-165 grain cast swc. All three take these rounds in stride. For heaven's sake keep that 27-2! Get something else if you want but don't let that jewel get away from you!

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I’m surprised no one has posted a pic of a 3 1/2” model 27-2. If there is a more strictly business looking handgun out there I’ve never seen it.
It is a hoot to shoot at dusk with max charges of H-110 powder. Five foot fireballs bring laughter to everyone attending.
I stumbled upon this 27 a few years ago at a pawn shop about an hour away.
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I’m surprised no one has posted a pic of a 3 1/2” model 27-2. If there is a more strictly business looking handgun out there I’ve never seen it.

There is so much truth to that! The 3 1/2" is very high on my list of "In Search Of" guns!

There is a great story by Captain E.R. Walt in his book, The Hall Street Shoot-Out, where he chronicles one of the more famous shootouts in Dallas PD's history. Apparently a former Rookie of the Year was awarded a 3 1/2" Model 27 that he was carrying the night of the shootout. As more and more officers arrived they got tightly packed together. When this particular officer would touch off the mighty 27, he would blind and deafen his fellow officers. It is rumored that a few officers risked gunfire from the besieged house to escape the muzzle blast of the 3 1/2" 27.

It is a great read for those interested in such things and also catalogs some pretty solid use of the M1 Carbine in the Pre-SWAT/AR15 days.
 
The FBI made ample use of the 3 1/2" barrel S&W .357 Magnum. Special Agent Delf A. "Jelly" Bryce made good use of one. He is said to have killed 19 criminals during his career on both the Oklahoma City PD and the FBI.
 
Thanks for all your interesting informtive replies. modified my original post to clear up which model I have it is 27-2 not a pre-27. definitely has one of the best triggers of any handgun I own and I love the good old-fashioned Hammer spur.
How much of a danger is it to carry one without a transfer bar with all chambers loaded?

I agree 627 is a great option and I own a 627-5 PC w 5-in barrel 8 shot. Nice trigger on that about equal to the 27-2 double action.
My 686 Talo edition 7 shot 7" is more accurate but I don't like balance w the odd full lug Barrel in that length unless I'm shooting off sandbag. But off a rest that gun outshoots most of my other handguns. The 27-2 has better trigger in double action and identical in single action.

Nice 2 have 8 rounds in 627 but no issues with the N frame only having six but don't see my 27-2 as something I'm gonna carry in 6-in anywhere so will be special occasion & collector peace. However I'm seriously considering getting a four or five inch model 27 of some type as carry revolver and just because they're so nice.

What should I be looking for?

I have been lusting for a colt python for a couple years now but prices are insane, I'm not sure I'm getting anything more for my money than I would with a 27-2 or even a new classic model 27. also considering getting a shorter barreled 627 eight shot.
After handling a bunch of my S&Ws today I'm no longer as hung up on a cult python although I sure wouldn't mind one.
What should I be looking out for for potential issues with another 27-2 or older?

Is it safe to carry with all the chambers loaded without a transfer bar. Yes it is because the S&W revolvers made after 1944 have a hammer block that prevents the firing pin from touching primers until the hammer is cocked. Look at the pictures posted by Driftwood showing the side plate removed, you can see the hammer block.
 
I’m surprised no one has posted a pic of a 3 1/2” model 27-2. If there is a more strictly business looking handgun out there I’ve never seen it.
It is a hoot to shoot at dusk with max charges of H-110 powder. Five foot fireballs bring laughter to everyone attending.
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That is one good looking revolver. Thanks for sharing the authentication letter.:):thumbup:

I have an S&W 327 Night Guard with a 2.5" barrel. It's my favorite revolver. I can attest to the fact that full house loads are quite an attention getter with this gun. I was firing Hornady American Gunner .357 Magnum ammo at the range one day and the loud booms and the ball of fire emanating from the gun caused quite a stir with the two newbie range staffers that were there that day.:D
They were convinced I had something that shouldn't have been allowed on their range. Luckily the Range Master was there to calm their poor whittle nerves.:cool:
 
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Howdy Again

Regarding hammer blocks:

There have been three different styles of hammer blocks inside S&W revolvers over the years.

This is the lockwork of a Model 1917 that shipped in 1918. It has no hammer block. The lower arrow is pointing to the Rebound Slice, specifically the bump on the top of the rebound slide. When the trigger is pulled or the hammer cocked, the rebound slide moves backwards. There is a strong coil spring inside the rebound slide and when the trigger is released the rebound slide moves forward, shoving the trigger to the forward position. When this happens the bump on top of the rebound slide engages the bump on the bottom of the hammer, rocking the hammer back slightly. This pulls the firing pin away from the primer of a fired cartridge. This is necessary with a revolver with a cylinder that swings to the side. If the hammer was not withdrawn slightly, the firing pin would jam in the fired primer and the cylinder could not be opened for reloading. Notice the space between the top of the hammer and the angled portion of the frame where the hammer comes to rest when it falls. For some time, this arrangement was felt to be adequate. Revolvers like this were routinely carried fully loaded, relying on the rebounding features of the rebound slide and the hammer to keep the revolver safe.

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At some point it was decided a hammer block should be added to the design. This is the first style of hammer block that was added to S&W revolvers. I do not have an exact date for when this style of hammer block was added, but it is inside a 38 M&P that shipped in 1920. The hammer block is a piece of spring steel peened to the side plate. It rests in a slot milled into the side plate. Difficult to see see in this photo, but at the top of the hammer block is a rectangular tab projecting towards us in this photo. The spring action for the hammer block normally keeps the rectangular tab at its top positioned between the hammer and the frame, in the space shown in the previous photo. My X-Ray camera was out for repairs when I took this photo so I cannot show the hammer block in position in relation to the hammer. I have placed the hand in the the recess in the side plate relative to how it would engage the hammer block. There is a pin running through a horizontal hole in the side plate. When the hand moves up, the pin wedges the hammer block down into its slot in the side plate. This pulls the rectangular tab back, freeing the hammer to fall all the way. When the trigger is released, the hand moves back down and the spring action of the hammer block makes it rise again to block the hammer.

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This is the second, and more common style of S&W hammer block. I suspect in S&W's never ending quest to drive the cost out of manufacturing this style of hammer block was developed. It is just one piece. It is still made of spring steel, and operates similar to the older style. As with the earlier style, the spring action of the hammer block normally keeps it with the rectangle at the top positioned in the space between the top of the hammer and the frame, as can be seen in this photo. A ramp has been added to the side of the hand. There is a new tab on the side of the hammer block. When the hand rises it engages the tab on the side of the hammer block and forces the hammer block down into the slot in the side plate. Similar to the older style, this allows the hammer to fall all the way, firing a cartridge. When the trigger is released and the hand retracts, the spring action of the hammer block pushes it up again, positioning the top between the hammer and the frame again. At least that is the way it was supposed to work. There was an incident on ship board in 1944 during World War Two when a 38 revolver, probably a Victory Model, fell to the deck of a warship. The revolver landed on its hammer and it fired, killing a sailor. S&W had a large contract with the government at the time and the government instructed S&W to investigate what happened and to come up with a solution. Quickly. S&W set up some tests, and it was determined that the hammer block in the shipboard incident was probably coated with hardened cosmoline that prevented it from functioning properly. When the revolver struck the deck, the hammer block was in the wrong position. Perhaps the bottom of the hammer broke off, perhaps the rebound slide was crushed, it is hollow after all. Perhaps the stud the hammer rotates on broke. In any case the hammer block failed to do its job. S&W did some tests and determined that a 38 dropped on its hammer from waist high could indeed have a failure. The engineers were called in, and a new style of hammer block was designed and in production within a week. This particular revolver left the factory in 1939. Any of the early The 357 Magnum revolvers most likely had this style of hammer block inside.

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This is the new hammer block that was designed in 1944. Not really, it is from a newer revolver, but this is what the new style looked like.. A stamped piece of sheet steel with a tab at the end twisted up 90 degrees.

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This is how the new style of hammer block sits in a slot milled into the side plate. It is a relatively loose fit and the hammer block is free to move in its slot.

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This is the position of the hammer block with the hammer at rest. The twisted tab at the top of the hammer block is positioned between the hammer and the frame. The bump at the top of the rebound slide is still doing its job of engaging a bump at the bottom of the hammer, withdrawing the hammer from the frame. A pin has been added to the side of the rebound slide. When the trigger is pulled or the hammer is cocked, rebound slide moves back as it always has. The pin in the rebound slide engages the slanted slot in the hammer block, drawing it down at an angle. This allows the hammer to fall all the way. When the trigger is released, the rebound slide moves forward as always, and the hammer block rises up to block the hammer again. This is the style of hammer block built into every S&W revolver since the 1944 shipboard incident. At that time, all the Victory Model revolvers with the older style hammer block were recalled and the new style was fitted to them. Victory models in production at that time had the new hammer blocks installed and the 'V' prefix of the serial numbers was changed to 'SV' to indicate the new style hammer block was inside.

It should be noted that all three styles of hammer blocks are/were 'redundant' safety devices. The rebound slide always was the first safety device, the hammer blocks only came into play if something failed, allowing the hammer to fall al the way forward. Notice in this photo there is a small amount of space between the hammer and the hammer block. The hammer never actually touches the hammer block unless something has failed. It has to be this way or the hammer would be pinching the hammer block and make it more difficult to withdraw.

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Anyway, that is the style of hammer block that is still inside every S&W revolver manufactured to this day. Since 1944. So any revolver with a Model Number, instituted in 1957, such as a Model 27, will have this style of hammer block inside.*

*Unless some bozo has removed the hammer block thinking it will make the revolver a little bit slicker to shoot. Yes, it happens on occasion. If you peek into the area of the hammer with a strong light while slowly cocking the hammer you should be able to see the hammer block moving down out of the way.
 
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In a Smith and Wesson, the bolt is the sliding bar that the thumb latch moves to open the cylinder. There is a wee spring behind it, back there in the lug that keeps the hammer from cocking if the cylinder is not closed.

The part that keeps the cylinder aligned is a "bolt" in a Colt but a "cylinder stop" in Smith and Wesson lingo.
 
It can't be very strong, it is opposing the center pin spring and you sure want the center pin held back to latch the cylinder in. More an imagined advantage than real, at least without the risk of leaving out the hammer block and depending on the rebound slide in case you drop your four pound 1500 gun.
 
Yes I definitely don't want to drop any $1,500 guns especially when nowadays $1,500 guns cost $2000:what:
 
MY 1500 was in reference to the PPC course of fire, 150 shots, 1500 points possible.
A Clark set up for the sport with bull barrel and Aristocrat rib is only $1305.
I don't know what a Mojo costs, their www is gone and they don't have a real catalog on FB.
 
I have a question about values on Smith & Wesson model 27-2
When there are special issue runs for example when a revolver is available that says something like:
This is a special run by Smith & Wesson made for the Texas police fraternal order officers association
And the barrel has an inscription to that effect and there is like a inscribed insignia on the other side of the gun opposite where the Smith & Wesson insignia is does that increase or decrease the value?
 
Shoot a Model 27 long enough and the inertia of the heavy cylinder will peen the locking notches. The old Model 27 charge holes were shorter then the L frame making some handloads shorter then desired. The heavy cylinder will also put more torque on the yoke if its loaded with speed or indifference. I'm not positive but the heavy cylinder may have contributed to creating more end play. Banger Punta owned and built is worse then modern production in my opinion.
Look at a Manhurin M-73 if you really worry about wearing out a revolver.
 
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