S&W Model 36 Question

[Barry the Bear]

My wife's uncle is trying to sell me a 1970s-80s model 36 in .38 spl. Its got wear on the finish(blued) Its maybe 75%. Cant send pics sorry. But the worst part is that the cylinder is locked up and it wont release. Its loaded and I would have to pay for a gunsmith to work on it. How much should I offer considering it needs obvious repairs? I was thinking 250, thoughts?

 

[rcmodel]

Probably $ 250 would be fair enough to everyone.

About the only reason a S&W won't open is because the ejector rod housing has unscrewed itself from inside the cylinder.

Put a business card between the cylinder and frame to hold the locking bolt down out of the notches.

Then hold the ejector rod and turn the cylinder to tighten it enough to open it.

Once you get that far, come back and we will tell you how to fix it so it doesn't do that ever again.

rc

 

[Barry the Bear]

Thanks rc, Ill offer 250 but not a cent more.

 

[rswartsell]

Real simple fix, common to S&W. The 36 is a fine gun and if you are not experienced in finish estimating, a 75% piece is pretty ugly. If this is just normal wear it would probably grade a bit higher. If $ 250.00 works the chances are you are getting a deal. Trouble is, you can't identify any other possible mechanical problems while its locked up. I'd definitely be in for $ 250.00.

 

[Barry the Bear]

It is pretty ugly. The finish on the barrel is very worn. But after the repairs it should be great for cc

 

[rswartsell]

Man, I agree with that sentiment! Function is everything to a "shooter grade" guy like me. Hopefully it works like a Swiss watch once you get it sorted out (chances are real good).

P.S. rcmodel meant "ejector rod", not "ejector rod housing"

forgive me, the man's an expert and I couldn't resist!

 

[highpower]

Remember that the ejector rod is a left hand thread.

 

[Barry the Bear]

So are yall saying i might not even need a gunsmith if its just the ejector rod?

 

[rswartsell]

Yup. That's exactly what we are saying. Unlock it first, very simple. THEN test it for mechanical function... we will go from there. The "S&W Ejector rod backout" is no reason for a gunsmith.

 

[Barry the Bear]

Awesome! I more of a ruger guy but who knows maybe this will open the doors to s&w

 

[ArchAngelCD]

First off, I would bring it to the Gunsmith before I bought it just to find out how much you will have to put into it.

Second off, I paid only $300 2 years ago for an almost new M36 that dates to 1975 so IMO $250 for a non-working revolver that's ugly is way too much. I would pay no more than $150 as long as the repairs aren't too high. The defects below are in the pictures and not on the revolver itself.

 

[22-rimfire]

$250 sounds a little high unless they "fix it" first. It is a 75% gun afterall.

 

[Drail]

I would jump on that with both feet. My wife has been carrying a Model 36 for 20 years and she won't ever let go of it. They are great little guns.

 

[rswartsell]

Not many of us get the chance to have a gunsmith appraise a revolver before buying. If you do be advised he can't do a thing until the ejector rod backout is addressed and the revolver "unlocked". If you decide to buy accomplish this first, read the sticky about "how to tell if a used revolver is any good" then decide if you also need a gunsmith. Just my humble advice, YMMV.

 

[MagnunJoe]

I never get lucky finding old revolver deals like that.

 

[DNS]

Revolver prices go up fairly quick so even if you give $300 by this time next year (or the next) you'd probably break even. Besides it'd make a great carry gun.

I bought an HR '49er four years ago for $115. Everybody cried I'd over payed. See how much they go for now

 

[Barry the Bear]

Guys he turned down the offer not because of price but because of sentimental value. Im disappointed but not angry, I get where hes coming from.

 

[sgtstryker]

Did you fix the ejector rod problem for him?