Forgive the lack of knowledge but can anyone tell me about the Model 36. Saw one in a gun shop and was curious as to whether it is a good model or not. Are Crimson Trace grips available for it? Shop is asking $385 but I think it can be had for less. Haven't been able to inspect it yet, anything besides the obvious I should be looking for?
S & W Model 36
- Thread starter gilfo
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rcmodel
Member in memoriam
The Chiefs Special J-Frame revolver has been in continous production since S&W introduced it in 1950. It became the Model 36 Chiefs Special in 1957 when S&W went to the model numbers.
It is the classic steel frame snub-nose revolver all others are judged against.
Probably more after-market grips, including more then one model of Crimson Trace laser grips, speed loaders, holsters, and such have been made for them then any other snubby.
Read the sticky at the top of this forum for "Revolver Check-out".
http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=1430
rc
It is the classic steel frame snub-nose revolver all others are judged against.
Probably more after-market grips, including more then one model of Crimson Trace laser grips, speed loaders, holsters, and such have been made for them then any other snubby.
Read the sticky at the top of this forum for "Revolver Check-out".
http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=1430
rc
Zeke/PA
Member
A New in Box Model 36 retails for around $800.00 so depending on condition ,
$385.00 might be a bargain.
Of course, when buying a used firearm, "negotiating" is ALWAYS part of the game.
$385.00 might be a bargain.
Of course, when buying a used firearm, "negotiating" is ALWAYS part of the game.
indiandave
Member
I just bought a circa 1962 model 36. I paid 319 and I thought I did well. 385 is not out of line.
Crimson Trace makes grips for the model 36.
Crimson Trace makes grips for the model 36.
earlthegoat2
Member
It is not as fashionable these days as some of the new Airweights but the steel frame is my preference when it is a snubby.
cyclopsshooter
Member
tguil +1
doc540
Member
yes
The Model 36 is a solid revolver. I prefer the all-steel J frames like the 36 myself as I think the extra weight helps a bit with the recoil.
The price is good, assuming the revolver is in good mechanical condition. Read the revolver check out and then check the gun out for yourself. If nothing else, I've found that a close visual inspection helps. If you see buggered screws or a mis-aligned sideplate, those are bad signs. They mean someone who didn't know what they were doing took the gun apart, most likely for some ametur gunsmithing.
A little holster wear is fine and to be expected.
A couple tips: Any old revolver would benefit from having a gunsmith remove the sideplate, flush out the old dried-up lube, and then relubricate the internals. Sometimes it makes a huge difference.
This is a blued gun: Keep it oiled or use a wax, like Rennasiance Wax, especially if you do carry it. Blue guns do rust quicker then stainless guns.
If the gun has the original skinny grips, consider replacing them with a set of Pachmyrs or some other aftermarket grips. The factory grips are great concealment, but awful for shooting. I've found some slightly larger grips make all the difference in actual shooting. I like Pachmyrs, but there are other options and other people have other preferences.
The price is good, assuming the revolver is in good mechanical condition. Read the revolver check out and then check the gun out for yourself. If nothing else, I've found that a close visual inspection helps. If you see buggered screws or a mis-aligned sideplate, those are bad signs. They mean someone who didn't know what they were doing took the gun apart, most likely for some ametur gunsmithing.
A little holster wear is fine and to be expected.
A couple tips: Any old revolver would benefit from having a gunsmith remove the sideplate, flush out the old dried-up lube, and then relubricate the internals. Sometimes it makes a huge difference.
This is a blued gun: Keep it oiled or use a wax, like Rennasiance Wax, especially if you do carry it. Blue guns do rust quicker then stainless guns.
If the gun has the original skinny grips, consider replacing them with a set of Pachmyrs or some other aftermarket grips. The factory grips are great concealment, but awful for shooting. I've found some slightly larger grips make all the difference in actual shooting. I like Pachmyrs, but there are other options and other people have other preferences.
sidheshooter
Member
I'm with the others above, so far as my liking of blue, all-steel 36s. Make it a 36-1 (3-inch) and we are really talking!
The pachmayr compac is a great shooting grip, yes, but I'm sort of a fan of just adding a tyler T-grip, to keep the size down.
Trebor, can you say any more about using that "Renassiance Wax" on a revolver, if you check in here?
Never heard of it before, and a quick trip to google makes me curious...
The pachmayr compac is a great shooting grip, yes, but I'm sort of a fan of just adding a tyler T-grip, to keep the size down.
Trebor, can you say any more about using that "Renassiance Wax" on a revolver, if you check in here?
Never heard of it before, and a quick trip to google makes me curious...
one45auto
Member
That's not a bad price. I picked up a blued Model 36 (circa 1982) about five years ago for around the same amount, give or take a couple of bucks. It's a sweet little revolver, especially with a set of Uncle Mike's boot grips.
Fisherman_48768
Member
I picked up two a year ago, both are in excellent condition. $550.00 for both, one has been dated to about 1961 and the other about 1969-70. Excellent carry pieces.
I paid $367 OTD for a Bangor Punta era Chiefs Special almost 3 years ago, early 1980s manufacture? It's been a good companion and is my second favorite S&W wheelgun after a Model 15 Combat Masterpiece. The only J frame better and I've never owned one would be the Model 49 all steel Bodyguard. Steel to soak up recoil and a shrouded hammer for ease of pocket carry.
Rennaisance Wax is a wax originally developed for museum curators to help preserve artifcats in their collections. It is designed to be safe to use on metal, wood, and (I believe) leather.
It's "kinda like" a car wax, but specially formulated to be more gentle and have absolutely NO abbrasives.
It is generally used on guns in a collection that aren't being shot regularly as a protective coating to preserve and protect against surface rust forming. To use it you apply a very light coat and buff it in. I believe there are directions on the package.
For a "working gun" I'd only apply it on the non-moving parts such as the under the grips and the frame and barrel exterior. I'd leave it off the hammer and trigger for fear of it getting into the mechanism. (I'd probably leave it off the cylinder as well, or maybe a very light coat)
I haven't use it on a carry revolver yet myself. I know of guys that use Turtle Wax on their revolvers with decent results, and since Rennasaince Wax is specially made to be even more gentle and protective, it seems like a logical choice.
You can get it on-line from a few sources. I had to google it up when I was looking for it last.
It's "kinda like" a car wax, but specially formulated to be more gentle and have absolutely NO abbrasives.
It is generally used on guns in a collection that aren't being shot regularly as a protective coating to preserve and protect against surface rust forming. To use it you apply a very light coat and buff it in. I believe there are directions on the package.
For a "working gun" I'd only apply it on the non-moving parts such as the under the grips and the frame and barrel exterior. I'd leave it off the hammer and trigger for fear of it getting into the mechanism. (I'd probably leave it off the cylinder as well, or maybe a very light coat)
I haven't use it on a carry revolver yet myself. I know of guys that use Turtle Wax on their revolvers with decent results, and since Rennasaince Wax is specially made to be even more gentle and protective, it seems like a logical choice.
You can get it on-line from a few sources. I had to google it up when I was looking for it last.
ArchAngelCD
Member.
I bought a square butt M36 of 1975 vintage a few years back that was fired very little. It's my favorite J frame and it's very accurate. It's just a small piece of history too... I finally got lucky and got a really nice revolver for a low price like I hear about so many times so you can't go by the price I got it for. If that M36 is in a high grade condition you will probably do well to buy it if you can get the price down a little.
doc540
Member
Local sheriff for over 20 years used this one as his BUG. My was friends with him and ended up with it. He handed it down to me, and here it's gonna stay.
before:
after a little Flitz
before:
after a little Flitz
Landpimp
Member
I have many 36's, 2-3", sb, rb. love them all, never paid over $300 for one, all used.....my favorite is a 1952-53 Chief Special pre 36( aka baby chief) I liberated it from Chicago..even came with Daley stuff about regestering it
cant count the J frames variations I have, but my all day everyday is a 340PD, yeah it painfull but i can control it and just use 38+P with 357 backup....but its lite and goes bang everytime....and its with me all the time
cant count the J frames variations I have, but my all day everyday is a 340PD, yeah it painfull but i can control it and just use 38+P with 357 backup....but its lite and goes bang everytime....and its with me all the time
trickyasafox
Member
I have a m36 made in the early 70s that I love. paid 300. I did a write up on it on my blog.
http://gunzand$hit.blogspot.com/2009/04/smith-model-36-j-frame-review.html
replace the $ with an s.
http://gunzand$hit.blogspot.com/2009/04/smith-model-36-j-frame-review.html
replace the $ with an s.
pharmer
Member
Paid $275 for this one a couple years ago. The oversize grips are mine. Joe
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