S&W Model 619 for my first modern handgun?

[velodog]

After many years of shooting percussion revolvers (and the occasional borrowed .32 S&W Long revolver or 1911), I've decided to buy my first modern handgun. Naturally I want to stick with revolvers! The gun would be used for home defense as backup for my shotgun or carbine, for occasional open carry when camping or boating, and for infrequent concealed carry when traveling in the more free states. After lots of looking, I'm strongly leaning towards the new L-frame S&W Model 619:

S&W Model 619

Any comments? Does anyone have experience with one of these? Is this an appropriate choice for my first modern handgun? Is there a better choice? I was concerned about my requirement for infrequent concealed carry, but from reading the other posts on THR and elsewhere it seems that people do carry K- and L-frame guns without difficulty. The MSRP is $615 -- what would be a fair retail price for this gun?

Thanks for your advice.

 

[357wheelgunner]

The new S&W L-frames go for around $475 and tax and NICS around here. I just bought a brand new model 65 for $475 out the door.

I carry my 4" K-frames daily (one at a time ) with ease, including in an office where I am working as a sub-contractor. They don't print, but I have to watch how I bend and move. The new 619 looks like a decent gun, but I dont like the weight and bulk of the bigger L-frames.

If you want a gun for carry get a model 64 or model 10, these are "only" .38 special, but the .38 has been putting badguys down for many many years. They are also thinner around and lighter. The K-frames also sit lower in the hand than L-frame guns do. My fixed sight K-frames point like a finger, they seem to have a mind of their own and point right where I want them to. If you want a good "keeper" gun, get the 3" model 64. You will not be disappointed. I bought a 3" model 65, then a 3.25" model 65, then a 4" model 66, then a 4" model 65, soon I'll have a pair of J-frames (model 60 and 642) and a 3" model 64. Then I'll feel like I have "enough" pistols. Trust me (and others) the S&W K-frame is the greatest belt gun ever concieved.....

Edited to add....

Welcome to the High Road

 

[Standing Wolf]

You could do a lot worse.

When it comes to the price, I'd be inclined to look first on the auction sites, then haggle long and hard with your local gun shop people.

 

[SouthpawShootr]

You could do a lot worse.

Exactly what I was thinking. It's a new model, so I wouldn't have any comments specific to the 619. However, at heart it's nothing more than an L-frame, a proven design that's widely well regarded. I think you'll be happy with it. As far as price goes, I would expect it to be somewhere around $500. You should windowshop as much as you can (or as much as you can stand to) to get an idea of a going price before you buy.

 

[velodog]

All: Thanks for your input. I'll let you know how it all turns out.

357wheelgunner: Unfortunately I'm about to move to Undisclosed Location #7 where they probably won't give me a carry permit. Otherwise I'd be seriously thinking about the 3" Model 64, if not something smaller. As for the Model 10 itself -- for a gun to be around that long, they must have done something right!

Then I'll feel like I have "enough" pistols.

Is this even possible?

Welcome to the High Road

Thanks. I've been reading the posts for quite a while, and I'm very impressed with the people here -- very knowledgeable and (for the most part) very civil.

 

[Jim PHL]

Excellent choice for the tasks you've described. Good luck and welcome.

 

[Stainz]

First, welcome to the forum!

I concur - great purchase, the new 619/620. The fixed sight 619 would be a bit better to carry, since the sights can't loosen. Also, you have to adjust mentally, aka 'Kentucky windage', for ammo changes. The 620 differs only in it's adjustable rear sight, a handy thing to have for ammo changes when target shooting and plinking. My local pusher has a 4" 620 for $489 - and a left-over 4" 66 for $449. They both have a partial lug, making them 'point' a bit easier for most than the more front-heavy full lugs of the 686. The 619/20 has the aforementioned slightly bigger frame and seven-shot cylinder. Oddly, S&W lists the 4" 66 at 37.0 oz - the 620 at 37.9 oz. It'd be hard to tell the difference, weight wise, although the slightly thicker cylinder of the 7-shooter may be noticeable to some, certainly not to me. The last of the 66's had the same new-style 2-piece barrel/liner, too, just like the 619/620 (... and the .500 Magnum!).

Now for another choice... with a bit higher priced ammo. How about a 'big bore'? S&W has re-released the 629 Mountain Gun. This is a packable 40 oz, half lug, tapered 4" tube, chamfered cylinder, and bright SS N-frame revolver in .44M. While it is a .44 Magnum, you can, as I do since I reload, shoot .44 Specials and .44 Russians in it. And... when you want real emphasis - or to hunt, if it is legal with a 4" barreled revolver in your area - you can blast away with .44 Magnums. Expect it to be about a c-note more dear: $559-$589.

Another great choice - for a big bore with affordable/available caliber .45 ACP - is the 625. The best bargain here is the new 625JM variant - with it's wood stocks, hard-chromed trigger & hammer, easily changed front sight, and chamfered charge holes. Great bargain, but the dealer's are beginning to gouge a bit, despite it's $27 higher than a base 625's price. I paid $589 - but have seen $649 also, locally. Still, it is a super buy, as those wood stocks, which make for a great and fast grab, run $70. The 625's have a full lug and satin SS finish, not as pretty, in my mind, as the 629MG style. Of course, the .45 ACP is a mild recoil in the 625JM - an all day shooter, for sure! Even Wally World carries .45 ACP ammo.

Confused? You can't go wrong with any of them. Just be advised... S&W revolver's are infectious!

Stainz

 

[velodog]

Timing queston on NIB S&W M619

OK, so I FINALLY got around to buying that 619! I haven't been to the range yet, but I have dry fired the gun quite a bit. In fast double action and single action, everything works as it should. But, in very slow double action, the cylinder stop doesn't fully engage the cylinder about 5% of the time. The alignment of the chamber and barrel appears to be correct, but after the hammer drops I can still rotate the cylinder by a tiny amount (maybe 0.3 mm) before I hear the "click" of the cylinder fully locking up. This seems to happen intermittently, and it does not matter which chamber is in firing position. When this happens, I can sometimes feel a very subtle change in the trigger pull, as if one piece of metal is beginning to slide along another piece of metal instead of pushing it...if that makes sense. To my untrained eye, the extractor and hand look normal. I have not removed the side plate, and don't plan to either.

So here are the questions:

1. Is this normal?

2. Is this an indication of the revolver being out of timing?

3. Is the revolver safe to fire in this condition? Or is this a "Go directly to the gunsmith. Do not pass GO. Do not collect $200." sort of issue?

4. Any advice?

 

[Preacherman]

I'd suggest repeating the test (checking for an unloaded gun, of course!), and check the alignment of the chamber with the barrel every time you pull the trigger. You can do this by looking down the barrel into the cylinder, if there's enough ambient light to let you see, and by using one of the fiber-optic flashlight attachments (such as this one) to poke down the barrel if necessary. If the cylinder isn't perfectly lined up with the barrel and forcing cone, check the lock-up. If, in those cases, the cylinder moves a little bit and then locks up, don't shoot it at all until it's been back to S&W to get fixed!

 

[Eightball]

My advice? Don't fire really slow DA .

If, in those cases, the cylinder moves a little bit and then locks up, don't shoot it at all until it's been back to S&W to get fixed!

Ditto that. Personally, it sounds "normal" to me, but then again, I've never seen your gun in person. My model 620 is a hoot to shoot---make sure you take along some full-house .357, tell us (me) how easy it is to shoot--very tame in mine. (Difference of 620 to 619 is adjustible sights, different underlug, hogue instead of pachymer grips). You should love your new toy; if you don't, I'll buy it off of you.

 

[dbarale]

Sometimes the cylinder can be a little lazy when shooting in slow DA but it should be locked when the hammer falls.
Wich means, with the trigger pulled and the hammer down it should be solidly locked and you shouldn't be able to rotate it till it clicks.
Call S&W service dept and see what they have to say, you can also check with a competent gunsmith who may be able to fix the problem without having to send it back.
Sorry about your problems...