S&W Model 67 vs 686

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I'm looking for a S&W Revolver with a 4 or 6 inch barrel primarily for target shooting and as a back up HD gun.

I have a J Frame snubby that I shoot .38 +P with and since I have a lot of that caliber, does it make any sense to go with a Model 686 over a Model 67?
 
Yes, the two are similar, but the 686 gives you the option of shooting 357 mag for only a little more. I would do what a lot of people have been doing since 1935 - practice with 38 special, shoot a few cyllinders of 357, put 357's in it and leave it in your night stand (or wherever). As for your decision about to go 4" or 6", it's good to feel the difference in the way the gun balances and get the one you prefer.
 
Hi,
You said a target 357 for the range and a backup HD. I have below my suggestion. Great accuracy not too muzzle heavy and has a 6 inch barrel. Just a suggestion.
Regards,
roaddog28
Model 19-4 6 inch barrel
SWM19-4e.gif
 
If you don't care to shoot .357's-and, you don't need to have a 6-inch barrel-then, the model 67 is an excellent shooter and is very accurate. The model 67 was one of the finest .38 Special revolvers ever made! I love mine! I'm the same way, in that I don't care to shoot anything stronger than .38 +P-but, that's just me.
 
I have a 4" 686 and it's capable of fine accuracy. And it can shoot .357s.

OTOH, the 67, the new-ish 67-6 version, in particular, with its 2-piece barrel construction, has a reputation for being a particularly accurate revolver. Despite having a fine 686, I'd snap one of these up in a heartbeat.
 
OTOH, the 67, the new-ish 67-6 version, in particular, with its 2-piece barrel construction, has a reputation for being a particularly accurate revolver. Despite having a fine 686, I'd snap one of these up in a heartbeat.

i've heard the same thing, that the 2 piece barrel really does produce an accurate gun...i guess Dan Wesson was before his time.

i'm hoping to put it to the test as soon as i get my 2.5" M66-5 back from having it's action gone through
 
I wanted a new 67, but could never find one at gun show. There were plenty of 686 at gunshows, so I sacrificed by getting it instead. I don't like the 7-shot and the extra weight and size. 7-shot is a huge disadvantage for matches because you're only allowed to load 6; I would fumble with the cylinder position, trying to get the empty chamber in the right place, lose precious time. The guys at the local PPC match all shoot K-frames 38s 6" barrel. 686 is not a K-frame. 67 is. That tells you something.
 
Either one will fill the bill very well. My one concern is that the 357 Magnum round would have a serious blast effect inside a home. You may wish to consider 38 Special +P loads for HD. Both revolvers are well suited for the jobs you describe. Most of the revolvers I have for HD are 357 revolvers loaded with 125 gr. SJHP 38 Spec +P in them. The one 38 Spec I have is a S&W model 10-8 loaded with the same load. I do have several semi-autos as well but I just feel better with a good high quality revolver in my hand. I started out with revolvers and they feel natural in my hand.
 
A Model 15-2 will have no problems shooting +P....I do in my 15-3 without a worry.
I own both 15-3 and a 686-1. They are both fantastic revolvers. I would feel well armed with either in hand. I like the 125gn 357 mag for self defense, though, so the 686 is what stays in the bedroom.
 
One thing to remember regarding shooting .38 +P ammo in a Smith and Wesson .38 Special revolver is that, if the gun has a model number-then, according to Smith and Wesson, these guns are safe to shoot this ammo. On the other hand, they don't recommend shooting .38 +p in any pre-model .38 Special revolver!
 
I own three S&W revolvers a 686 6", 340PD snub, a 66-7 4".

The 686 is an original "no dash." I've taken friends to the range so they could use it as their first gun (with 38 rounds). Even my best friend's fiance, who had never shot a gun, was staying in the black of the bull's eye at 10 yards with it.

The 66 is almost as accurate in 4". Got it for $150 after trade (had $400 on the tag, was a barely-used police turn in that had avoided being converted to DAO). However, it is much lighter and easier to carry, and isn't as muzzle heavy. I think the weight is pretty close to an SP101 and it has the longer barrel and one more round capacity. Extremely comfortable to shoot, as is the 686 - with neither you feel pain when shooting 357.

The 340PD is a 2 inch snub in scandium/aluminum. Has a steel barrel and cylinder. 38 out of it can hurt, and 357 is downright torture. A good last-ditch gun, but not for recreational shooting.

The 66 (stainless version of the 19) seems to be the best compromise between the larger L frame 686 6" and the J frame 340. K frame 3" are hard to get but are probably the best compromise, but I'm happy with the 4"

Tried Ruger. Not a fan of their current revolvers. Not able to say why, it's a "x factor" thing. I do like the Speed Six and Security Six revolvers - am cruising gun shows for one at this point.
 
For shooting mostly .38 Special ammo I would go with the K frame over the L frame because the K frame just feels right in your hand and is extremely well balanced.
 
Get a 6 inch Smith M28, highway patrolman. Big, heavy, will last forever with .38s, and if you do decide to hunt with it, well it will do. Plus for HD, it makes a good club if you run out of ammo.

And 6 inch HPs are not hard to find.

Deaf
 
For shooting mostly .38 Special ammo I would go with the K frame over the L frame because the K frame just feels right in your hand and is extremely well balanced.

Agreed. I've got both a 4" 686 and Model 67 (see first and third down in the pic). They are both excellent revolvers and equally accurate in my hands, but that 67 is lighter and the better balanced of the two.

S_W_K_and_L_frames.jpg
 
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