SAR-1 Trigger Pain

[Rockrivr1]

I've had my SAR-1 for some time now but haven't had much trigger time with it as of yet. To remedy that situation I took it to the range last weekend and shot a few hundred rounds through it.

One of the things I noticed is that the trigger sometimes reset hard enough cause me some pain in my trigger finger. It was almost like it slapped forward. The only thing I can compare the feeling with is when you hit a baseball with an aluminum bat. Had that kinda feeling.

Anyone else ever experience this? If so, what do you do to remedy it. I'm assuming some kinda trigger adjustment is needed, but I'm not sure. It didn't happen all the time, but when it did I was like "DAMN"!!!

 

[P95Carry]

Trigger slap is pretty common.... I get it too. There are several ways to improve it - and we had a thread very recently on just this - try a search and see if you can't locate it.

I haven't yet done any work on my trigger group but have in medium term added a sleeve of 6mm silicon tube over the trigger - it makes the slap more bearable.

 

[GlocksRock]

You can get a new trigger group... I hear really good things about the Red Star Arms adjustable trigger.

 

[SpookyPistolero]

I've heard good things too, and for $90 bucks you ought to. Get a G2 tigger group from Tapco - $30. Follow directions and replace fire control group. Hello sweet trigger pull, goodbye trigger slap.

Go to ak-47.net for good info.

 

[Sean Cloherty]

I also recommed the TAPCO G2 FCG replacement. The original fire control group is probably the worst I've ever felt. The G2 replacement makes a world of difference. Less grit, less creep, wider trigger and NO SLAP. Certainly none of that will hurt your marksmanship either. I've done one of my SAR-1s and I have the parts waiting for the second one as the time permits.

Here are the instructions for swapping the parts out.

http://www.gunsnet.net/Linx310/fcgremoval2.htm

I avoided the adjustable trigger because:

1. Cost a lot more
2. Seemed like overkill for such a rifle
3. A potential source of complexity in an otherwise simple rifle. YMMV.

 

[Redlg155]

I like the RSA trigger, but like the others would recommend the G2 Trigger from Tapco. It is a much simpler unit.

The RSA trigger is great if you have a AK type rifle setup for meduim to long range targer work. My Saiga conversion to set up that way.


Good Shooting
Red

 

[MAKOwner]

If you have a dremel tool or similar or have the patience to use a hand file you can remove the trigger slap yourself.

It's caused by a protrusion on the backside of the disconnector that when pivoted backward by the bolt carrier while resetting the hammer/trigger, the protrusion hits the base of the trigger. Makes it "slap" your finger. You can remove that part of disconnector in about 1 minute with a dremel or something else with a cutoff wheel or rotary grinder type setup. With handfiles it would take a little more time but is certainly doable. Also remove a little bit off the bottom of the disconnector on the hole for the spring area for insurance you get it all...

This link has info on it: http://www.gunsnet.net/Linx310/slapfix.htm

You can also polish up the surfaces on the hammer/trigger parts while you're at with the proper bit on a dremel or whatever and really smooth up the trigger too...

 

[LiquidTension]

I did the slap fix posted above on my SAR and it worked fine. I polished the contact points while I was at it. I've had several comments on how much better the pull is now. I'm getting ready to do the same thing to my Norinco 84S.

The great thing is, even if you have some catastrophic screwup while doing it yourself, you're not out any money since you would have had to buy the new FCG anyway if you didn't try to fix it. Well, I guess you could just deal with the slap, but I prefer not to.

 

[.45&TKD]

recommed the TAPCO G2 FCG replacement

I noticed 2 types of G2 on the Tapco web site; single hook and double hook.

What's difference and what's better?

 

[LiquidTension]

Your SAR should use the single hook. Most of the time the double hooks go on milled receiver guns.

If you pull off the dust cover of your SAR, you'll notice that the trigger only has a hook on one side of the hammer (easiest to see when the hammer is cocked). The double hook has a hook on each side of the hammer. Like I said, your SAR should use the single.

Edit: You could use the double hook, but you'd have to make cuts in the bottom of the receiver - not worth it, IMO.

 

[NevadaPistolero]

Heres a link to the Romanian AK website that shows how to fix or replace your FCG.....not hard at all. If you need AK info go to AR15.com ...the dark side is the AK side.


http://www.gunsnet.net/Linx310/index.shtml

 

[Raygun]

There's really not much need to buy an entirely new trigger group, so long as you're fairly confident in your mechanical abilities and you own a Dremel tool and some files. Both removing trigger slap and improving pull should be accomplished fairly easily with the trigger group provided with your rifle.

All you need for the Dremel is a #426 cut off wheel, a #932 griding stone, a #530 stainless steel polishing brush, and if you want to go the extra step, a #520 polishing wheel.

To fix the trigger slap, just follow the instructions here. I did this a while back and it totally and completely solved the problem.

To improve pull, you can follow the instructions here. This takes the grittiness out of it. This guy says only to use the abrasive-impregnated rubber wheels, but I used the stainless steel brush and the #520 wheel, and it worked great.

I also went the extra step to cut in a "set notch" at the end of the trigger hook, as kind of an experiment, as I had an extra trigger lying around in case I screwed up. It's an extremely small cut, done at great pains with the trigger in a vise and a very steady hand on the Dremel for the initial cut, then filed square, then polished. The payoff was worth the effort, as I no longer have to wonder when the world's creepiest trigger pull is going to break. I pull the trigger to an audible and easily felt "click" and at that point, the trigger lets off at right around four pounds with zero creep. If I'm just plinking or doing rapid fire, the normal long pull can be used, and IIRC, it breaks at about six and a half pounds on my rifle.

I understand that the set trigger thing isn't going to be the best idea for everyone to attempt (which is why I didn't go into much detail about it), but it can be done with a little knowledge and effort.