Sar Vs Wasr

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Texasred

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Given the choice what is better SAR1 OR WASR 10?
Did WASRs ever have trigger slap? Because all thw WASRs ive seen don't have tapco trigger groups
 
I think trigger slap may be a thing of the past, but of course I'm probably wrong about that as I still see people complain about it but I've never experienced it myself out of a dozen or so AKs that I have fired. Mine (which is a WASR-10) DID come with a Tapco trigger, so no trigger slap.

I'm also curious as to what the deal is with SAR vs. WASR, they seem similar enough to me.
 
"Trigger slap" is a term that was set in concrete in the AK community by a little ol' company called "Century Arms".

Their US made FCG was badly designed and would display "trigger slap" every time.

Century stopped installing these in their imports a couple of years ago, and went to Tapco G2s instead.

If it has a Century FCG in it, it'll have slap.

If it doesn't, it probably won't.
 
it really doesn't matter as ya can eliminate TS in about 5 minutes or less with a file, it is caused by the tail on the disconnecter on Century units, ya file it down and the problem is gone
 
I think that you just have to punch out the pins holding the trigger group in place and remove the safety selector switch. The Tapco trigger groups run for around $30 and are really nice.
 
Cool Picard. So which is more known for the canted sights?
What exactly does this happen on? the rear or front?
 
I'm also curious as to what the deal is with SAR vs. WAR, they seem similar enough to me.

The SAR was made for the high cap double stack mags and the WASR was made for the 10 round single stack mags but is usually dremeled out to accept the double stack mags. The fit and finish is supposed to be better on the SAR as well. There may be a few other small things I don't know about but you're right, they are very similar.

So which is more known for the canted sights?
What exactly does this happen on? the rear or front?

The WASR is known for that problem though it seems less common recently. It is the front sight that may be canted and it is very easy to check for.
 
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Picard said:
I think that you just have to punch out the pins holding the trigger group in place and remove the safety selector switch.
What is it with everyone advocating destruction?

The FCG pivot pins are designed to be easily removed for maintenance. No 'punching out' needed or necessary.
 
The SAR series is better.... the last AKs to ever come in the country with a reciever that can accept normal hicaps, as far as I know. You will be much less likely to have your magazines wobbling around.

Replacing the trigger group, should you decide to do so, is relatively easy. If you do, you may wish to take some close-up digital pics of the spring/trigger group assembly in the rifle, to make sure you know how to put it in correctly. Ask me how I know...:)

Might want to try a RSA retainer plate, to replace the shepard's hook wire. I used one, and it went in quickly.
 
Replacing the FCG is fast and easy. If you're planning to be in there fiddling around, you may as well get the RSA retainer plate while you're at, as BTR mentioned. It will turn the one mildly difficult part of working on the FCG into a breeze. There's no downside, besides a slightly lighter wallet.

The SAR series is better.... the last AKs to ever come in the country with a reciever that can accept normal hicaps, as far as I know. You will be much less likely to have your magazines wobbling around.
Let's not be overly optimistic. They still wobble, just not as much. ;) It's a non-issue, though, as far as reliability is concerned.

Mike :cool:
 
Their US made FCG was badly designed and would display "trigger slap" every time.
Not every time. My SAR did have some slap, my early WASR has none. It wasnt just the SAR's and WASR's that had problems, its the crappy US parts that were the issue. I also had a Arsenal/Global Trades SSR-85C that had some slap. but the disconnecter broke early on and wasnt as bad after it was replaced. A little filing took care of the problem on the replacement.

it really doesn't matter as ya can eliminate TS in about 5 minutes or less with a file, it is caused by the tail on the disconnecter on Century units, ya file it down and the problem is gone
Not always. I removed, filed, and replaced the disconnecter on my SAR a half dozen times and it never went away. There wasnt much left to file, so I replaced it with a trigger from RSA. RSA's triggers are pretty nice, but for a "drop in" unit, it was a fair amount of work and required some filing on the receiver too, but it made a big improvement.

So which is more known for the canted sights?
What exactly does this happen on? the rear or front?
I would say the SAR's were more known for it. I havent seen any WASR's that had canted sights, and I think they pretty much had the problem solved by the time the SAR's stopped coming in.

My SAR has some "slightly" canted sights. Its mainly the front sight, but other than being somewhat annoying at first, it doesnt seem to affect accuracy at all. I've seen early guns where it was very bad. I've also seen guns where the rear sight appeared to be off, but most of the ones I've seen had front sights that were.

Might want to try a RSA retainer plate, to replace the shepard's hook wire. I used one, and it went in quickly.
The shepherd's hook seems to be a major issue for a lot of people. For a simple little piece of bent wire, you'd think you'd need a Phd to learn how it works. Some of the early (and maybe still existing) online directions on how to install and remove them are really amazing and so far off its incredible. A flat blade screwdriver and a downward push is all it takes.



Other than the canted sights and some with crappy furniture, the only real difference between the SAR and the WASR is that the SAR was made to accept a standard 30 round AK mag, the WASR wasnt. It takes a proprietary 10 rounder and is modified to accept the 30 rounders. You can tell the difference by looking over the mag well. The SAR has "dimples" the WASR does not.

I have both. My WASR came with nicer wood (its not laminated like the newer guns), no canted sights, a decent trigger with no slap, and a properly done mag well that has no discernible wobble with most of my mags.

Both rifles shoot about the same, canted sights or not.
 
Canted sites, no big deal in most cases, if the front site is canted the rear site will normally be canted the same way so they will still line up without even adjusting the windage...the gas tube will normally be canted in same direction.....this isnt a big deal unless it causes binding of piston/bolt carrier...its was all straight until the pressed it in the trunnion and installed.
 
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