Savage 10/110 series questions

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eldon519

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Besides being longer, is the 110 action beefier (thicker rings) than the 10 series? I'm curious since savage is chambers the 110 for larger bodied cartridges like the .300 Win Mag and now the .338 Lapua. These tend to be much fatter than anything in the short action besides the WSM family which I think has its own version of the 10 action.

Also, is there any difference between Savage 10 and Savage 110 bolt heads?

Finally, does anyone know the maximum cartridge length that you can fit in a 10 magazine?

I'm asking all these questions in relation to trying to do a caliber conversion, and figuring out which platform is most suitable for me.
 
I have a 338 lapua in my safe right now as well as 25-06 and a few others and the only resemblance is the fact that 110 is stamped on the side. Normal 110s have an open top around the bolt while the ba 338 only has a slot for ejection.Also all the metal around the chamber looks much thicker. I dont have a 10 to compare right now though so I dont know about 10 vs 110.
 
Besides being longer, is the 110 action beefier (thicker rings) than the 10 series? I'm curious since savage is chambers the 110 for larger bodied cartridges like the .300 Win Mag and now the .338 Lapua. These tend to be much fatter than anything in the short action besides the WSM family which I think has its own version of the 10 action.

While I cannot speak for the 338 Lapua Mag actions, there is no difference between the 10 and 110 other than length; I believe both are offered in small and large shank size (WSM and target actions being large shank, most everything else small shank).

110s have been built from 223 up through at least 300WM.

Also, is there any difference between Savage 10 and Savage 110 bolt heads?

Yes. Different sizes for long/short actions to fit different case sizes, with most being push feed but some controlled feed.

http://www.gunnersgear.com/savage_pics/caliber_case_head_sizes.pdf

Finally, does anyone know the maximum cartridge length that you can fit in a 10 magazine?

Many folks find 6.5s (260 Rem, Swede, Creedmoor) with 140/142gr bullets loaded long won't fit in a short-action magazine.

I built a 260 Remington on a long 110 action...because that's what I happened to have.
 
Well I was trying to post a picture to show what I mean but the smallest pictures my camera will take is 600 kb and I can only attach is 244 kb.
see if this works
 
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Thanks for the info and pictures Crestoncowboy and BoilerUp. That gives me most of the information I was looking for. The only thing I think I wasn't clear on asking was that I meant are 10 and 110 bolt heads interchangeable. For instance could the same bolt head be used for .308-family in a 10 and .30-06-family in a 110?

It's a bit of a silly notion, but what I am trying to research is making a .45-70 bolt gun. I know there are other similar options like .450 Marlin which would be easier, but I already have .45-70s and reload for it. Since Savage is making the Lapua now which is based on the .416 Rigby, the rim size of the .338 is only about 2-hundredths of an inch smaller than the .45-70 rim (although you could probably just mill out any 10/110 bolt head to the same effect). That bolt head obviously goes to a 110-length action, but I'm not sure if I would want to put that in a 10 or 110 length action. 10 would contain the average .45-70 load lengthwise, but I'd like to be able to load some .458 bullets and Postell heavy cast bullets which might take it out past the 10 length envelope. And the ring size question was just to make sure there would be enough metal around barrel and receiver to contain the pressure. If something can contain a .300 Win Mag with its bigger base, then it should have enough metal around it to handle the hoop stress of even the Ruger .45-70 loads.

I know there are other issues like rimmed cartridges in a box magazine, but frankly I'd be happy if it could hold 1+1 or 2+1.
 
There will be no way to establish headspace on a 45/70 in a savage 1series rifle due to the bolt face being recessed into the bolt head.

You can do case mouth headspace (I built a 45win mag), or belt headspace bur a rim won't protrude out of the bolt head enough to bear against the breachface.
 
That is a good point. Perhaps part of the bolt head could be cut back to flush and an extractor notch cut into the barrel. Or would the extractor be enough to hold it in place by itself?
 
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