Savage Rifles

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Holy macarol Cordex! I have the same spare Leupold one piece base sitting around collecting dust!! I wound up going with Burris mounts, the only ones I could find that fit!!!!!
 
After free floating the barrel, the Savage stock can be stiffened in the front. Notch out the stiffening ribs, place a pushrod inro the notches and below the upper level of the ribs(or use something similiar, like an arrow shaft), then fill the rib voids and cover the rod with JB Weld.
Bed the receiver and recoil lug/tab.
Works fine, lasts a long time.
 
Why does how stiff the front of the stock is matter? If the barrel is free-floated, it shouldn't matter, right? I am just asking because it sounds like the stock is so flimsy that it actually contacts the barrel or something?
 
sounds like the stock is so flimsy that it actually contacts the barrel
Off the bech or other support it's no big deal. If you shoot with a sling (I do when hunting) the front tip of the stock can be pulled over enough by the sling to touch the barrel.
 
I have a 10FP in .308 with a Choate Varmint Stock on it. It is the older model without the accutrigger.

I have been able to pull off a .50 inch three shot group with a Burris 3-9 scope and a cheap bi-pod at 100 yards and I suck.

I need to practice more to get consistent as I am the big limiting factor of the gun. I love my Savage. I have since changed the bi-pod to a nice Harris which should give me a much steadier hold.

Chris
 
sounds like the stock is so flimsy that it actually contacts the barrel or something

some times it does. it does pretty well off bags on a bench, but even then there can be some inadvertent canting going on b.c of that stock. off a Bi-pod sheesh!! i found out that putting a scope with a built in level, on a factory stocked savage 110FP was to say the least "distracting" that D@mned bubble was all over the place from simple things like a slight change in how i was griping the wrist of the stock!

now granted i still got very good groups out of it i think that just under half inch at 100 was about average just prior to me moving and having to put it in stoarage then selling it for med bill money.
But considering the potential of the rifle, i simply wonder how well it would have done had i put a better stock on it. and when i replace the one i sold i'll do just that, get a better stock, i may even break down and get a micmillan stocked one, but i don't know.
 
Why does how stiff the front of the stock is matter? If the barrel is free-floated, it shouldn't matter, right? I am just asking because it sounds like the stock is so flimsy that it actually contacts the barrel or something?

If you grip the barrel and foregrip with one hand, you will be able to make the barrel make contact with the stock with very little pressure. This is why I was discussing aftermarket stocks so much in my original reply.

The barrel is free floated in the factory cheapie stock. Resting the foregrip of the stock on sand bags shouldn't make the barrel touch the stock, but certain pressures and torque on the stock can cause barrel to stock contact.

That said, people still have had perfectly fine performance with the synthetic factory stock (non Choate/McMillan model).

As far as the caliber conversion, I forgot to mention that. Midway does sell kits, but Sharpshooter Supply (which I linked in my previous reply) also sells the necessary drop in barrels and Savage parts necessary for conversions. Sharpshooter Supply strictly deals in Savage rifle parts (factory and aftermarket) and have a solid reputation with hunters and varminters.
Savage Shooters has an article on Savage barrel swaps with pictures.

Here's a couple pictures of my Savage (McMillan A-5, Ken Farrell base, Burris Signature rings, Bushnell Elite 3200 10x Mildot):

a5_1.jpg


a5_2.jpg
 
Why does how stiff the front of the stock is matter? If the barrel is free-floated, it shouldn't matter, right? I am just asking because it sounds like the stock is so flimsy that it actually contacts the barrel or something?
Before freefloating the Savage stock, the forend flex wasn't really appearent due to the stock contact with the barrel.
After freefloat, the flimsiness was obvious.
If your budget doesn't allow an upgrade to a better stock, the previous mentioned chepo stiffening method does just fine. I compared my modified stock to Winchester and Remington 'tactical' rifles which had synthetic stocks and aluminum bedding blocks. Rem, Win, and modified Savage stock all had slight forend flex.
The freefloat takes out a varible that could affect the shot.
The stiff forend is needed to insure the stock doesn't touch the barrel. The unmodded, but freefloated, Savage stock would touch the barrel when using a bi-pod and rifle moved slightly side-to-side to change point-of-aim. Same thing was observed using different shooting positions, and off a rest or bag.
Rifle that was modified was an earlier 110FP .308, done some years ago.
 
love my FP10 in .308!! :)

I did not like the stock either, it moved to much and to easy for me (but I'm sure would kinda work). I put on a Choate ultimate sniper stock, and LOVE it (but this stock would not be my choice for hunting).

I wonder if Savage would ever sell just a barreled receiver (no stock)?? maybe even knock a few more bucks off!!
 
I wonder if Savage would ever sell just a barreled receiver (no stock)?? maybe even knock a few more bucks off!!

If they did that, they may even charge you more. :D

Seriously though, I don't think the generic synthetic stock costs Savage more than a dollar to make or have made.
 
I wish I could just find an aftermarket, affordable stock for the 10FP-LE1 that is as much like the Remngton BDL stock as possible. The BDL synthetic stock is my favorite rifle stock by far. It just fits me really well and works great for hunting and bench rest (for me anyway).
 
I wish I could just find an aftermarket, affordable stock for the 10FP-LE1 that is as much like the Remngton BDL stock as possible. The BDL synthetic stock is my favorite rifle stock by far. It just fits me really well....

don't know EXACTLY how similar they are but you might want to look into the Stockade "Mule Deer" stock Found here . I also don't know what price level you consider "affordable" and if you want wood instead of synthetic (since i've never seen a Synth BDL). but if it's the size adn type fo stock then this one might work. also the above link takes you to the pre-painted version they also sell ready to paint and "moneysaver" (ie YOU "fill prime and paint") versions.

just thought i'd at least offer the info:)
 
I was reading a gun magazine recently and ran across an article where they was talking with a barrel maker out west.Thet asked him which company made the best barrels for their production guns right out of the box.His answer.SAVAGE.
 
"...mixed reviews when it comes to Savage's "out of box" accuracy..." That surprises me. Savage rifles are well known as being the absolute best bang for your buck.
 
I've got the 10FP in .223 w/ a B&C stock and Grand Slam. VERY accurate, smooth bolt, nice Accu-trigger, and CHEAP!

After letting one of my buddies try it out, he bought the exact same setup.

Tough to justify the extra $$$ for a Rem-chester (tho' they're nice, too). The Savage is a best buy, definitely.
 
Sulaco:

Have to agree with Onslaught -- never heard "mixed reviews" about accuracy. More than ANY other make (Tikka being a close second), it gets the consistent high marks for accuracy. My 116 kit gun in .223, with better scope and $25 trigger job, always shoots between 1/4 and 1/2 inch 3-shot groups. Mine obviously didn't have the new accu-trigger. Agree stocks aren't worldbeaters, but I also think synthetic stocks are almost universally ugly am not interested -- with down to 1/4 inch groupings -- in a better ugly stock. Composite's a different story.
 
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