Savage scope set-up

[iMagUdspEllr]

I haven't bought it yet. However, I am looking at purchasing a Savage Model: 16/116 FLHSS in .308 Win.

I have been reading into how to set up a rifle for hunting. i.e. I probably want to get a 3-9x40 scope, rings, rail, etc. But, I have read that the cheek comb on the savages (and most rifles) is too low (usually favoring a cheek weld with iron sights rather than a scope).

I would prefer to shell out the extra cash to buy a rifle with an adjustable comb and length of pull right off the bat if I am going to stand a good chance of having to adjust these items with aftermarket solutions anyway (buy once, cry once). It just sucks because many rifles with those features tend to be heavier, more expensive, or both. But, I would still rather take the weight and shell out the money rather than mess around with aftermarket solutions right after I buy the rifle just to make it usable.

I handled the Savage in the store and it appears the length of pull is about right (I was in a hurry). But, I have never scoped a hunting rifle before so I when I shouldered it and established a cheek weld I couldn't begin to guesstimate whether or not I would be able to get a 3-9x40 scope low enough. It didn't seem like my eye was buried below the top of the barrel or anything. Its just that I don't know how low I can mount the scope or how high my eye is above the bore when I establish cheek-weld on the rifle.

How do you have your rifle set-up? Do you feel you have a good cheek weld? Did you get a cheek comb riser, a different stock, lower scope rings, did it work just fine out of the box, etc?

Thanks for your responses in advance.

 

[aubie515]

You will probably want to uprgrade your stock as most Savage factory stocks suck.

As you stated, you could buy an adjustable cheekpiece built into your stock. You also could buy a stock pack that would give you a better check weld.

I know that Kevin Rayhill, Manners, XLR all offer stocks/chassis for Savages.

 

[Edarnold]

The need for a perfect cheek-weld, in my humble opinion, is right up there with the need to have your scope cost as much as the rifle you mount it on, or the need for a handgun trigger to break like a glass rod at 2.5 pounds, or a hunting rifle to shoot groups less than a minute of angle. If you know how to shoot a rifle well, and you have experience with a number of different rifles, you have also learned to adapt to the different fit of various designs. Assuming your hunting rifle may be used in prone, kneeling and standing positions for various shots at game, your "perfect cheek-weld" would require a gun with the fully adjustable stock of an Olympic target gun. And, of course, the co-operation of the game animal to wait around while you made the necessary adjustments.

In other words, get the rifle and a decent scope, mounted as low as practical, and practice dry-firing from a variety of positions wearing the kinds of clothing you plan on wearing while hunting. If, after actually trying out the fit of the combination many times over a serious period of time, you can't abide the way it fits, then you can look for alternatives. The combination of relying on buzz-word wisdom and lack of practical experience is a recipe for spending a lot of money on gadgetry that won't make a bit of difference in your success as a hunter.

 

[CB900F]

It's entirely possible you need to handle more rifles. My suggestion is to haunt the used racks of any gun shop in the area. Many of those used guns will be scoped & you will have an excellent chance to find out what works for you without spending money.

Who knows, while your just looking for the answer to a geometry problem, you may find a new best friend. Been known to happen. Don't automatically discount the used racks either, many fine rifles reside there for reasons other than accuracy, reliability, etc.

900F

 

[JDGray]

Setting up for hunting is way less critical then setting up for tiny groups...
Like Edarnold said, get the scope as low as you can, and be happy!