scared to try and remove rust

[gf1723]

I bought an 870 Express back in 2006, it was brand new at the time. It was the synthetic super magnum version. I was pretty stupid back then and always stored it in a traveling case. One time after bird hunting I didn't clean it and just put it back in there. A couple months later and there are some marks of rust on it. I've tried letting it sit and taking a toothbrush with some oil on it. Even let it set with a pool of oil on the spots for 5 hours. It still is there.

I know this is a minor cosmetic issue, as the gun functions flawlessly, but I feel as if it's my duty (it was my first gun and all) to get rid of the rust from the receiver. Now I've heard the trick of the steel wool, but won't that still make a mark on it that looks different from the rest of it?

I honestly wish I had saved up my money a bit more back then and got a Wingmaster, with the nice blued finish rather than this crappy finish that Remington puts on them.

 

[shiftyer1]

use 0000 steel wool, oil and patience. The steel wool won't mar the finish but depending upon how bad the rust is you may see some pitting. A couple days ago I pulled out my 870 and when swapping out barrels noticed that some rust had formed on the barrel where it entered the receiver. I grabbed the steel wool and problem solved, then I oiled the hell out of it

 

[Milkmaster]

My advice is to use bronze wool instead of the steel wool. The bronze wool will take a little longer, but it will remove the rust without as much abrasion to the bluing. Bronze wool can be bought at hardware stores. Good Luck!

 

[Yo Mama]

I've just wiped on Flitz polish for a second or two with a rag before and it worked!

I used the 0000 steel wool with the polish to polish the barrel which scared me, but it was not a big deal.

 

[oneounceload]

Flitz is an abrasive and will remove metal, let alone finish.

Remember, bluing is just another form of rust. 0000 wool, steel or bronze or brass, or even a Sctoch "scrubbie" with a good penetrating oil like Kroil, will do the job - but as mentioned, you need patience Grasshopper - slowly and gently

 

[strm_trpr]

I removed rust off of a maverick 88 and Ariska t-99 with 0000 steel wool and 3 in 1 oil. It took a lot of time but they look good, Well the T-99 does, the Maverick is my Dad's and I have not seen it since I worked on it years ago.

 

[rcmodel]

Your 870 Express probably has the rougher beadblast finish under the bluing rather then a smooth high-gloss polish.

As such, rust is going to be very difficult to remove completely without removing the rough texture finish.

Even then, there will be a stain or change in color when you get done.

Were it hi-gloss blue, 0000 Super Fine steel wool & oil will remove light surface rust without the slightest trace of bluing damage, other then that caused by the rust spots.

I don't care for bronze wool at all, as it leaves copper on the metal, and then you got another problem to deal with getting that off.
Copper Solvent bore cleaner is the best way to deal with that.

rc

 

[Hammilton]

I've never had any problem with the copper- it just wipes off when you oil it. In my experience anyway.

 

[Milkmaster]

I've never had any problem with the copper- it just wipes off when you oil it. In my experience anyway.

Me too!

 

[Dr.Rob]

Bronze brush and wet wipe of Hoppe's #9.

Won't take off the bluing, Hoppe's takes off the copper residue from the brush.

 

[jimmyraythomason]

My advice is to use bronze wool instead of the steel wool.

I've used 0000 steel wool and WD-40 for almost 4 decades to remove rust from existing bluing as well as blending new bluing. I have no experience with bronze or copper wool but since steel wool works so well I have no need to.

 

[sig220mw]

The 0000 steel wool works very well and if you do happen to take some bluing off you can buy some birchwood casey super blue and touch it up.

The stuff is easy to use.

As far as putting oil on rust. It is too late if the rust is already there. You need to remove it first then apply oil or blue then oil. When you put oil on rust all you get is oily rust.

 

[Al Thompson]

Once you get the rust off, recommend you get a can of Krylon and paint your 870. That rough finish is great at anchoring Krylon and paint provides a very inexpensive but functional finish.

 

[45Fan]

Once you get the rust off, recommend you get a can of Krylon and paint your 870. That rough finish is great at anchoring Krylon and paint provides a very inexpensive but functional finish.

This sounds kinda tacky, but does work, and if done properly, doesnt look any different than any other factory applied finish.
I have a buddy that spent many years behind a sniper rifle in the Corps, an it is his preferred method of rust protection, and camouflage for many of his rifles. It was easy to change his set up from jungle colors to desert colors, and wasnt to difficult to remove.

 

[06]

If you do paint then use "Bowflauge". It is much easier to remove. My stainless deer rifle is camo'ed even to the crown and bolt handle with it. I just touch it up occasionally.
On rust, it is a sneaky critter. If left unstopped it bores deep into the metal(pitting) and can be dangerous. Oil--lots of oil is it's enemy. The inside of my safe smells like an oil can but things don't rust. Just have to swab the bores, bolt face, and wipe off any extra before firing. Takes a bit more time but you do not get rust.

 

[rajb123]

I wax my firearms..... car wax works great and keeps the moister away.

 

[Cop Bob]

We have used 0000 Steel Wool for 40 years with a bit of Hoppe's #9.. on just about any and all finishes.. unless it is pitted, it should come clean as a whistle...

I did this on a war relic that was brought back in 45 by an old man that was with Patton's third.. It had been kept on the floor in a hall closet wrapped in a paper grocery bag, for over 40 years.. it was COVERED in light brown surface rust.... Stripped it down, all night bath in Hoppe's, and hit it with 0000... came back 90%+... Couldn't believe it was the same gun.... Done the same on dozens upon dozens... if it isn't pitted, you can save it...

BTW, Oneounce load is right,, use the Fritz sparingly.. it can remove metal,,, and if you can't get 0000 steel wool, you can use the bronze wool (0000) but Me, I would wait until I could get the steel... just me... the red metal deposits from the brass or bronze will wipe up, but it is a dissimilar metal, I would follow it up with a heavy degreaser, brake clean comes to mind... then oil it up proper...

 

[Al Thompson]

FWIW, I've degreased and painted several 870 Express shotguns. The Krylon flat black wears reasonably well and looks factory. Give it a week or two after painting for the finish to harden up before handling extensively.

 

[Sarge756]

Saw your post and offer this kink "The Penny Solution".Bring out the good old WD40 and find a pure copper penny.Like everything else that`s good make it a Pre64. Wet with WD and have at it with the edge of the penny.Unless you have advanced rust that has pitted badly it will respond. For a large area say full length of a barrel I use copper scouring pads like used to scrub pots in the kitchen.Caution on these don`t buy the discount stuff at Wallyworld.They contain steel coated with copper. The only ones I use are "Choreboy" available at Walgreens. Use the WD to wet it down and scrub away. Yes, copper residue will be deposited but as stated in an above post no problem getting it off with solvent and a rag.Now you have a use for the fast becoming worthless penny and another one to add to list for WD. Joe

 

[45crittergitter]

+1 for Bronze wool, and the added benefit is it lasts forever because it doesn't rust either.