Scope clearance at front of base

[mechanicuss]

Question from lurker with very little bolt-action experience. I have googled and searched in here and there are a lot of threads on scope bell to barrel clearance. Not to flog a dead horse here, but my question is really about the clearance between the base and the bell, not the bell and the barrel (see pic).



That's an optical illusion there... There is about .100" bell to barrel and about .050" bell to base front edge. Most say if you can see daylight you are GTG. Think I am OK here? Any input greatly appreciated.

 

[jerkface11]

I always try to get as close as possible without touching.

 

[back40]

i have a leupold in talley mounts on a win m70 and it's similar. i'd say you're fine. i've considered beveling the top edge of the mount with a file to gain more rearward direction for eye relief, but haven't found it to be a major issue.

 

[Radar3006]

It looks good to me and the only problem you might have is there might not be enough room to put on a set of butler creek scope caps.....as long as you are getting a good cheek weld on your stock I would not change it...

 

[4v50 Gary]

All comes to worse, there's always higher scope rings.

 

[jmr40]

As long as your eye lines up with the scope naturally it looks about perfect to me.

 

[fotheringill]

It looks good. When you eject, do you hit the base that is hanging over the ramp?

If so, just move the whole thing forward by about 1/3".

 

[greyling22]

looks great. I really wouldn't want it a whole lot lower. Have you seen the slo-mo videos of guys firing big rifles https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xeXOloDxk6U
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s5pVya7eask

 

[mechanicuss]

Thanks ya'll. I'm not that versed on bolt action setup, and really appreciate the inputs.

The rubber "bikini cover" that came with the scope does clear fine.

The rounds seem to magically miss the overhang when I eject.

As far as eye relief and cheek weld, it is not as comfortable as my old Weaver V9 on my Encore. I have to push into my cheek a little more. And, I have to ride up on the stock a little on 9X vs 3X. It's do-able, but not what I would call optimal. This is a deer stand gun - I can adapt to it - if I shoot it 5 times this fall I will be happy and looking for more freezer space LOL...

Yes, I did see that 50 cal scope and barrel flexing vid - whew....

 

[benzy2]

Other than for looks and for stocks designed for low iron sights, why drop the scope to the rifle? You point blank range will be longer with a higher mount. I'd put comfortable cheek weld as first priority but if cheek weld is equal, slightly higher is more beneficial than slightly lower.

 

[back40]

You point blank range will be longer with a higher mount.

slightly higher is more beneficial than slightly lower.

can you explain these in further detail?

 

[jim243]

As long as your eye lines up with the scope naturally

That's really the issue. Cheek weld should be so you can just look straight down the tube. I would say you need medium rings on that rifle to get correct height and cheek weld.

Just my view.
Jim

 

[mechanicuss]

I do have some medium rings. I did put them on after that pic - it does let me move the scope towards my eye a significant amount....

I may loosely fit a picatinny rail and rings on it just to see how it looks - i like the idea of being able to swap scopes with my AR's.

eta: I sort of like this setup: http://www.30-30.com/HCR260CULW.jpg

 

[greyling22]

you can swap them, but they will be "off" by who knows how much. 2" a foot? more?

 

[mechanicuss]

you can swap them, but they will be "off" by who knows how much. 2" a foot? more?

Sorry for the confusion, but by "swap" I meant the ease of attachment only. I would NEVER just swap and go - I would always zero the weapon with the new glass.

 

[orchemo]

scope covers

IF the clearance is too little for Butler Creek, you can use the Leupold Alumina - they screw into the bells of the scope.

Orchemo

 

[mechanicuss]

I like the picatinny rail system better. I probably won't ever use the old Leup rings again. As you can see, I also raised the scope up just a little bit to help cheek weld. Now, off to the range to zero it and get ready for Bambi!



Thanks for all the suggestions. I like this forum!

 

[BCRider]

For me a good cheek weld is when the comb of the stock rides up high and sits under the shelf of bone that extends out below the eye socket. ... it all sounds rather clinical when I word it like that...

Anything else is hard to achieve quickly and consistently. And I like the stability of the comb sitting against hard bone.

All of which is to say that the lower the better for me. The only exception are thumbhole stocks that have a channel cut out along the comb to let the bolt ride in and out. On those I can get away with medium rings.

 

[back40]

same here, the lower the scope the better.

if the height is necessary to move the scope rearward for eye relief, then that's another matter.

 

[mechanicuss]

With this stock and those Leupold low DD's, I was having to bend my neck down and forward on 3X and strain to get to 9X. With the rail and the TPS rings a little higher and further back, I can close my eyes, press my cheek up comfortably to the stock, and when I open my eyes I am right in line with the cross hairs when on 3X. I have to move a little forward on 9X, but it is more tolerable than before.

 

[back40]

sounds like it's right where it should be. nice looking stick.