Scopes: School me on them

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kcw12

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So far ive put 3 scopes on my gun. Come to find out that there all broken. (i work with a lot of junk it seems). the more i shoot them the more they go one way or another if i dont adjust them again. And as a control i remove the scope and pretty well started drilling around the 10 ring or so.

The gun is a marlin 39a. Give me a scope recommendation. And how do you adjust them so the target and the crosshair are nice and clear. Ive not figured that out yet. and how you set the eye relief.

I may just stick to open sights, scopes are too much trouble.
 
Bushnell makes a good(great actually) .22 scope for $55 or so. going between the target and crosshairs is a thing you do with your eye, (or at least i do) if you mean making the target appear in focus, you need a lower magnification scope, or a parallex adjuster. My brother has a 39A too. great gun..
 
1) Before you do anything else, get a scope ring lapping bar, and some abrasive, and go to town on it one night while you're watching a movie. You are using 1" rings, right? Your rings may not be "straight."

2) Then ebay yourself a Weaver K4 scope. Built like a tank.
 
first off, if you are using a standard size rifle scope , for a centerfire, it proly is not prrlax free untill 100 yds, or 150. make sure your scope has a front adjustment ring, marked in yards or meters, usually from about 50 yards, out to 300 yds, or an infinity symbol. This is called AO, or an Adjustable, Objective.
Secondly, you have a rear ocular bell, closest to your eye. this will either be threaded, or a fast focus piece, with just a plus and minus sign on it, or a 1 or O
on it. This piece is for focusing your crosshairs, ONLY!!!!
now there are a few tricks out there , to work them both together for sighting in and removing parrallax(prrlax) at distance, but the easiest thing to do is this;
focus the eyepiece FIRST!!!! take it outside, and look at a bright, clear blue sky. Adjust the eyepiece, until the crosshairs are crisp and clear. Leave that eyepiece alone now, and remember where it is marked. If you have a threaded type, with a locking ring, you can lock that adjustment down, with the locking ring, that is in front of the eyepiece, just by turning it down , against the threads, until it is locked tight against the rear eyepiece.
now then, if you are shooting at say 50 yards, adjust the front AO piece, just by turning it to the 50 yd mark. This may not be exactly on, but it should be close, so look through your scope now, at the target, until the target is nice and crisp, and clear, you are NO LONGER worrying about the crosshairs, they should allready be totally crisp, because you adjusted them first, and independently of looking at any target.
Lastly, if you are using a suck scope, that is a problem. If it is a N/C star, or BSA, you are just asking for trouble. Bushnell and Tasco aren't a lot better, unless they are older, and Japanese made, not chinese, or TAiwan.
if you get a Korean made one, I had a really good bushy made from them a few years back, but I still would not count on them. Older Japanese glass , made by whoever, is allways good. any new japanese made glass is very good as well, such as nikon or pentax.
If you are looking for a cheapy, and pretty damn good glass, go to a big box store, and look for the scopes that come in the hard plastic casing.
What you are looking for is a Tasco, it will be a 3x9x32, it will say right on the packaging, ADULT, SPRING PISTON, BREAK BBL, AIR RIFLE RATED.
This means that it is tough enough to handle the two way recoil of an adult
power springer air rifle. Believe it or not, most scopes , not even centerfire scopes, are designed to take the two way , punishing recoil, of a adult air rated rifle, that is a break bbl, spring piston.
this scope will have a marked in yards adjustable objective on the front piece,
and it will say , down to 7 yards or meters on it, which is damn close!!!
most centerfire scopes, will not adjust down this low, also it has an adjustable objective , up front, on a bell that is only 32mm big, mostly you don't see this, unless the front piece is 40 mm big, so for a air rifle rated scope, you are getting a lot of features here.
The best part is, it is 50 bucks or less, and it looks like this;
opticsplanet_2009_401068623.gif
here is a pic of an old weaver, which I also highly recommend, with the locking rear ring , for keeping your eyepiece in the same place;
007-1.jpg


now there are two types of golden antler scopes, this one is correct;
http://www.midsouthshooterssupply.com/item.asp?sku=00209GA3932AGD
this one is incorrect, it has no front Ajustable Objective(AO)
http://www.midsouthshooterssupply.com/item.asp?sku=00209MAG39X32D

this should get you started on some decent ideas for glass, and how they work. we can get into the other stuff, later. Or you do a search on this forum, for scope usage, mildot, parrallax adjustment, etc.

notice also, on the scope I say is correct, it says for adult break bbl, spring piston rifles.
the other one does not. Now then, all centerfire rated scopes should be able to take the recoil
of a rimfire, if not, then it is broken. Which it almost sounds like yours is.
Lastly , you can never go wrong with a Leupold or Burris scope. Great warranties, great glass,
great scopes.
 
I have lots of problems using scopes and most have a tendency to confuse my eye for some reason. The only thing that works really good for me is the Eotech holographic scopes. They are proven in combat and very rugged, too. My eyes even have trouble with ACOG's - go figure. My Eotechs hold zero very reliably on an ar-10 and an ar-15.
 
I recently bought a Savage Mark II that came with a cheap Simmons 3-9x40 scope as part of the package (no objective adjustment). Set up a target at 50 yds, but it was clear the scope was meant to be used at 100 yds. The 50 yd. target was out of focus, but targets at 100 yards were in focus. I unscrewed the eyepiece until the 50 yd. target was in focus. Did I mess up? (rifle shot great @ 50 yds.) Thanks.
 
No, I didn't lose any gas; the scope is apparently designed to allow you to adjust the eyepiece. However, in reading this thread, it was my understanding that I should adjust it so that the reticle was in focus, not necessarily the target. But with a 50 yard target and a 100 yd. scope, I got the both the target and the reticle in focus. Thanks, guys.
 
You didn't fix anything but you made it useable. The rear ocular lens is what focuses the crosshair. Adjusting it will change how the crosshair looks. It may also change how the rest of the picture looks but that is a secondary effect. What you want to do is adjust the front lens so that the picture is clear at 50 yards and set the rear ocular lens so that the crosshair is clear. There are many threads on the internet on how to adjust a non-adjustable front lens to adjust parallax to the distance you shoot most often. You relieved some of the symptoms but none of the problem.

As for scopes. For the longest time I bought cheap and thought it was good enough. After a single decent non-Chinese made scope I will never go back. You get what you pay for. If you only spend $50 on a scope you get just that. The best deal on cheap scopes right now is the Weaver 4x shotgun scope Natchez has on sale. It is a nice scope for very little money. What you want to do is avoid anything made in China. If you get a Japan, Europe, USA, or certain Philippine made scopes you will have quality glass. Brands such as Leupold, Nikon, Weaver, Bushnell Elite series, Burris, and others will have low option scopes that will be as low priced as you can go for a quality scope. I used to hate all the people that said China made scopes weren't usable until I tried something not from China and as I said I will NEVER go back. If you want to enjoy shooting your rifle enjoy looking through the scope as well.
 
Benzy,

Thanks for your help. ... And I agree about cheap scopes. My centerfire rifles have Leupold or Nikon. The Simmons was part of a package; I figured if I liked the rifle (which I do) I'd sell the Simmons on eBay and get a nice rimfire scope. Thanks.
 
Dumb question? Can somebody post pics of what the various symbols on a scope look like and what they are called? I see references to bullet drop, crosshairs, and all kinds of things and not sure what they are all referring to.
 
Original poster - The others are right on about either getting an adjustable objective scope or one that is adjusted to be parallax-free at 50 yards instead of 100.

Leupold, Nikon, and Weaver I believe all make them.
 
Southern6er,

The term crosshair is the aiming point in the scope. This is what you line up with the target. 1143329882858_1143712033537_CROSSHAIR.jpg

Bullet drop compensators are special crosshairs that have dashes or circles on the vertical line that represent where the bullet will be hitting at a certain distance. This way you set the scope at a given range and if you know the distance to the target you can line the dash or circle up that corresponds to that distance without using the turrets to physically dial the crosshair up or down.

Here is a list of a few other terms:
http://www.myoan.net/tipstricks/riflescopeterm.html

Just google any other terms you don't understand.
 
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