See I got these old double shotguns.

[Ironhorse522]

After haggling with the previous owner, I manage to pick up two old double hammerless shotguns, a 16 gauge Stevens 311, and a old western field 12 which is like a stevens 315. I paid a 130 for both!! Both are in kinda rough condition, the 16 gauge has a cracked stock and missing the forearm screw, the 12 gauge stock is pulling away from the action and has random screws in it. As a little project I would like to fix both guns up and keep them around. What I wanted to do to the twelve gauge is fix a curved butplate to it like an old muzzleloader and refinish the stock and add a brass bead. Has anybody done this? I think it would look better than the plastic one that is on it now, and give a older appearance to the good working class double it is. The 16 gauge is a easy fix, a little expoxy on the stock as good as new. Both wood stocks will be oil rubbed finished. Has anybody added a curved metal buttplate to a shotgun? Is there anything I should know before attempting this?

 

[Sam1911]

I'm not sure if you're asking for aesthetic advice or practical advice, but a bit of both:

1) Aesthetics: A curved metal buttplate seems totally out of character on a shotgun (even an old muzzle-loading fowling piece). That, to me, is a hallmark of a 19th century rifle, especially a lever-action. Those guns you have didn't come with them, never featured them, and something's going to look a little "off" about them.

2) Practical: A curved metal buttplate does not work well the way a shotgun needs to work. It limits your ability to position the butt against your shoulder the way you'd most like to for accurate wing-shooting. The curve is going to sit on your shoulder ONE way. You may need the gun higher on your shoulder to bring the comb of the stock to your cheek, and that may force you to use a very uncomfortable, unnatural hunched stance. (This is why modern rifles, even lever guns, don't feature these anymore. They aren't a very good idea unless the gun is fit EXACTLY to you.)

It will not mount smoothly the way a shotgun should as you go from field-carry to a shooting stance. Those points at the top and bottom of the butt will snag your clothing and you'll have to come out forward and then draw the butt back into your shoulder instead of a quick, smooth mount.

And it will accentuate, strongly, the recoil of these guns. These won't be gentle recoiling guns anyway. Now they're going to kick like iron-shod mules.

So, IMHO, I wouldn't do it.

 

[Ironhorse522]

I see your point, I'm after something kind of like this

But not so extreme just a little curve to it, so it does not massively change the way the shotgun functions

 

[Salmoneye]

CVA Hawken?

 

[Ironhorse522]

Idk I just got a picture off the Internet

 

[Jim Watson]

As Sam said, put a narrow curved buttplate and a crooked stock like that on a 12 gauge and it will be nothing but a recoil amplifier.
But if it suits you, go for it.
Look up Gemmer Sharps. He bought out the Hawken shop and made a good business out of setting breechloaders up to look like muzzleloaders.

 

[Ironhorse522]

I'll check them out, is gorilla glue strong enough to repair a goodsized crack in a wood stock?

 

[Sam1911]

Gorilla glue is not a good glue at all. When tested by Fine Woodworking some years back it failed utterly in every test, falling far short of even the most pedestrian yellow carpenter's glue, white glue, cyanoacrylate, epoxies, etc. Great marketing, though.

Yellow carpenter's glue is far better than most people give it credit for, though not waterproof. I'd use epoxy for most gun stock repairs.

 

[Carl N. Brown]

If I were going to antique a pair of double shotguns, I would study books, catalogs, photos and specimens of 19th century shotgun stocks and try to replicate the buttstock and forearm style of those. From what I have read, it was considered an improvement to leveraction rifles when they went from curved rifle buttplates to straight shotgun style buttplates.

 

[rcmodel]

Adhesive for thin stock cracks.
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=13081/Product/HOT-STUFF-INSTANT-GLUE

Adhesive for major stock breakage repair.
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=1033/Product/ACRAGLAS-reg-

A curved metal butt plate on any shotgun is just wrong, for all the reasons Sam1911 listed.

But especially the part about it kicking like a stud mule on crack.

rc

 

[Ironhorse522]

I'm starting to rethink the curved butplate because it would detract from such simple shotguns, however a fitted rounded brass butt plate would look good. I'm waiting for it to quit raining so I can remove the finish off both shotguns and start sanding the stocks down. Do you have to make a metal butplate from scratch or do they sell universal butt plate blanks?

 

[rcmodel]

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=7686/Product/CLASSIC-BUTTPLATE

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=26631/Product/WINCHESTER-BRASS-BUTTPLATE

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=332/Product/NEIDNER-BUTT-PLATE-GRIP-CAP

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=24689/Product/TRADITIONAL-STEEL-BUTTPLATE

rc

 

[Ironhorse522]

Thanks

 

[content]

Hello friends and neighbors // I have not reshaped for a new butt plate but I'd look at one for the 1884 Springfield (unless you want brass).

Parts are easy to find and new stocks are always on GB.

I think all I've needed for my three was a safety , a buttplate and probably the same forearm screw you needed for the walnut 2 3/4". This one also needed a stock crack repaired but I did not even need to pin it.

I bought a spare 12 ga., 2 3/4" chambered barrel.
Cut it to 18 3/4" and installed a nice large brass bead. No real problems but the reduced weight and leverage keeps the action from opening all the way.
I also decided to strip the rusty finish and try cold black, not parkerized but it certainly isn't very reflective, which is what I was going for.

The stocks can be beautiful after you remove the spray stain. All in all, well worth the time and dollars to me.

Might as well post a pic. Hope you have fun making what works for you.

Top 12ga. 3", Mid. 12ga. 2 3/4"(18 3/4" barrel actually goes to this shotgun), Bottom 16ga 2 3/4".

 

[Ironhorse522]

Beautiful doubles, what did you put on the stock to make that darker pattern? Or was it like that before?

 

[content]

Thanks,
The top has a reddish stain, mahogany red. I think it was a dark cream color to start sort of looked like paint.

Mid. is Walnut it was a real beater I mush have sanded off a 1/4" each side to try and get most of the nics out.. it started out walnut but like paint.
I was trying to get close to a whitetail deers coat color, the other side has sort of gold flecks from sap.

Rough sanded and stained then repeated till pleased. Once you sand them smooth it is harder to get the color to penetrate.

Have fun.

 

[Ironhorse522]

So you rough sand then stain then sand again and repeat with stain till it comes out like that? I would like to try something like that on the 16 gauge that has a ugly walnut like finish. The 12 gauge has a very dark stain that I'm gonna sand down get smooth then hit with a lighter stain. One more quick question. I've never seen this before but what do you do if the stock is pulling away from the action?

 

[content]

Can you post a pick,, it could be just poor fit or warped due to the elements. Perhaps someone swapped stocks with a 20 or 16ga. I know you can't swap receivers and barrels between gauges but the stocks might be close enough to fit.

BTW great price for yours.

 

[Ironhorse522]

Yep I paid 80 for the 16 gauge and 50 for the 12 gauge. I'm at work right now but where the stock and reciver meet is a little gap just big enough for the light to go threw. Can this be fixed or have to be replaced?

 

[content]

I would not worry too much about it, sounds like one of mine, spread a little at the Y.

It has not been a problem and that is the beater 12ga. I shoot the most 00buck out of.
I repaired a crack on one side as well.
Thinking about it maybe an epoxy "shim" coating or two on the inside would not hurt?

 

[content]

Here is how the Walnut stock started out. Beattter but I like it.

 

[rcmodel]

but what do you do if the stock is pulling away from the action?

I think the tang bolt under the butt plate is loose.

rc

 

[Ironhorse522]

My 12 has 90% bluing but the stock has this ugly red shellac like finish. I have pump shotguns, auto shotguns, and single shot shotguns. But anytime something needs shooting I pick up a double, something about the balance of it. I need a 20 and a 10 to complete my wall

 

[4077th]

I only had time to briefly read a few posts on your thread. Gorilla glue, superglue, elmers, etc are all dirty words in the stocksmithing world. Between the oil and vibrations a gunstock is subject too there are few products that will hold up.

If you are interested in having me take a look at the damage for you, feel free to drop me an email at my webpage and I will get back with you right quick.

www.tomsstocksmithing.com

 

[One_Jackal]

I have very good luck with Elmers Ultimate glue. It's a polyurethane type glue. It expands when it dries and can be shaped. Not real good if you are going to stain the finished product but very few products are as durable. if you totally restore both guns to 90% they will be worth about $600 total. Westernfield is Western Auto, years ago they sold guns. Most westernfields were manufactured by mossberg but you have some oddball models.