self-dehorning a Colt Combat Commander?

[1KPerDay]

Couldn't decide if this should go in gunsmithing or here; I'll put it here.

The wife's Stainless Combat Commander (great gun) has very sharp edges; particularly along the front/bottom/rear of the slide and around the ejection port.

I don't really want to send the gun out for a full professional dehorning job, but I don't want to screw up the finish. Will 600-grit sandpaper work? If so, do I need to use a sanding block or would hand-held be better? Any advice before I seriously screw up a nice-looking gun?

 

[longtooth]

I will use the answer too. I just bought a SA Custom A1 & there are a few sharp edges on it too. Especially the rear sight. Thought about doing it but don't want to mess it up either.

 

[Old Fuff]

First, you'd better find out if the Colt is truly stainless steel, or conventional steel with a satin-nickel plated finish (called ColtGuard).

The S.A. is likely true stainless, and yes, if you are careful you can round off those sharp edges and corners. Just don't get carried away.

A hard, block pencil eraser makes a good sanding block.

 

[1KPerDay]

The colt is actual stainless, yes. It's the "enhanced" version with semi-beavertail grip safety and a rib along the top of the slide (which I'd like to have removed eventually... or at least grooved). Thanks for the input... is 600 a good grit or should I start with 200 or something?

 

[dfariswheel]

A somewhat better option is to buy abrasive sanding cloth at the automotive store, or at most hardware stores.
Either buy it in rolls, or tear it into strips.

Start off with fine-cut files to break the sharp edges.

After getting the edges rounded to your preference, wrap the abrasive cloth around files or flat wooden sticks and use that to futher round and smooth the edges.
This offers much more control than a sanding block.

For other areas, wrap the cloth around round dowel rod sections or whatever will work for hard to get spots.

After getting things rounded and and all file or abrasive marks removed, go over it again with finer abrasives until you get down to one that matches the original grained finish.

Any scratches or unwanted marks can be polished out with Scotchbrite pads of the appropriate "grit".

Be careful around areas that are bead blasted, since this finish can only be restored by bead blasting it again.

 

[1KPerDay]

Thanks. I was concerned about "polishing" the bead-blasted areas as well. I'll be careful. Does anything 'darken' SS to match the blasted finish? Or would I be out of luck in that case? I'll just have to be careful I don't accidentally rub those areas, I guess.

 

[waterhouse]

I've never tried it, but a couple guys on the 1911 forum recommend "shoe shining," which is taking a thin strip of 120 or 220 sandpaper and using the shoe shine motion on the edges.

Pics and description are here:
http://www.blindhogg.com/gunsmith/dehorning.html

Also, be careful around things like the little semi circle notch (whatever it is called) and the slide stop notch

 

[Jim Watson]

My FLG does it with a FINE file and stones. I don't think he sandpapers a gun.

 

[1KPerDay]

Waterhouse, thanks. Those pics are very informative. I assume he's running the file long-ways along the surface (that is, holding the file as shown in the pics but moving left to right), right? I imagine that makes the most sense... don't know if I trust myself enough not to screw it up with a file, though.