Is there a difference in accuracy between a correct grade vs. service grade Garand from CMP? In reading through past posts, some posters report 3-4 MOA, and others say you can get 1 MOA by accuratizing. Other posters mention getting about 2 MOA without accuratizing. What's the scoop, and does the grade make any difference?
Service vs. correct grade Garand: difference in accuracy?
- Thread starter thekomet
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Swampy
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komet,
From having ordered many, MANY M1's from the CMP over the last few years I can tell you that most all of what you quoted is true.
Minimum accuracy spec for a BRAND NEW M1 rifle in 1942 (or 1957, when production ceased.) was 4.0 MOA @ 100 yards with 8 rds of M2 ball. Most new rifles exceeded this quite a bit.
Now, with the NEWEST M1 rifle at age of 51 years, most will still meet minimum USGI accuracy spec. Some obviously won't. They are too worn, buttstock too loose, barrel hosed, etc..... That's why grades are given by the CMP to the rifles they have.
There are NO guarantees of certain accuracy with ANY grading.... but what you are paying for is an increased level of CONDITION that gives you a better CHANCE at accuracy potential.
Since the only real difference between Service and Correct grade rifles is the originality (or induced originality) of the parts, basic barrel and wood condition being the same, I find that most Service and Correct Grades are going to meet or exceed minimum GI accuracy spec. As you go lower in grade to Field and then Rack.... accuracy potential drops as barrel and wood condition are downgraded.
There are accuracy jewels in each grading... as well as accuracy dogs in each grading. One of my best shooters is a Rack Grade SA.... Two of my absolute WORST shooting M1's... can't even hold the black on an SR-1 with half the shots are Correct grades that look like they were made yesterday (Note: these will be rectified when I have the time to mess with them... no worries.). It's totally by luck of the draw and absolutely no way to know for certain before you actually get it cleaned up and to the range.
The upshot here is that no matter what grade rifle you get or how well-poor it shoots, it can always be improved by various methods. It may be as simple as putting shims under the mag well, a new spring cover on the rear sight, or peening the gas cylinder. It may be as much as replacing the wood with new or a new barrel and full bedding job. It all depends on the rifle, how much you are willing to put into it, and what your end use intent is... i.e. plinking, JCG, or NRA-EIC. The options are different for each end use.
Just my 2 bits after ordering more than my fair share of M1's from the CMP...
Best regards,
Swampy
Garands forever
From having ordered many, MANY M1's from the CMP over the last few years I can tell you that most all of what you quoted is true.
Minimum accuracy spec for a BRAND NEW M1 rifle in 1942 (or 1957, when production ceased.) was 4.0 MOA @ 100 yards with 8 rds of M2 ball. Most new rifles exceeded this quite a bit.
Now, with the NEWEST M1 rifle at age of 51 years, most will still meet minimum USGI accuracy spec. Some obviously won't. They are too worn, buttstock too loose, barrel hosed, etc..... That's why grades are given by the CMP to the rifles they have.
There are NO guarantees of certain accuracy with ANY grading.... but what you are paying for is an increased level of CONDITION that gives you a better CHANCE at accuracy potential.
Since the only real difference between Service and Correct grade rifles is the originality (or induced originality) of the parts, basic barrel and wood condition being the same, I find that most Service and Correct Grades are going to meet or exceed minimum GI accuracy spec. As you go lower in grade to Field and then Rack.... accuracy potential drops as barrel and wood condition are downgraded.
There are accuracy jewels in each grading... as well as accuracy dogs in each grading. One of my best shooters is a Rack Grade SA.... Two of my absolute WORST shooting M1's... can't even hold the black on an SR-1 with half the shots are Correct grades that look like they were made yesterday (Note: these will be rectified when I have the time to mess with them... no worries.). It's totally by luck of the draw and absolutely no way to know for certain before you actually get it cleaned up and to the range.
The upshot here is that no matter what grade rifle you get or how well-poor it shoots, it can always be improved by various methods. It may be as simple as putting shims under the mag well, a new spring cover on the rear sight, or peening the gas cylinder. It may be as much as replacing the wood with new or a new barrel and full bedding job. It all depends on the rifle, how much you are willing to put into it, and what your end use intent is... i.e. plinking, JCG, or NRA-EIC. The options are different for each end use.
Just my 2 bits after ordering more than my fair share of M1's from the CMP...
Best regards,
Swampy
Garands forever
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