Setting Lock Ring on Dies

[d31tc]

Had a question as to what is a normal process. After getting the a sizing die or seating die set to the headspace to where I want it, keeping the die from rotating, I tighten the lock ring down, seeming to torque the set screw pretty good. When I am done with that die, when I have tried to remove it, by turning the lock ring, the lock ring starts to slip on the die, or conversely, if I remove it by turning the die, the die slips in the lock ring.

Am I, 1) not tightening the set screw enough? or 2) threading the lock ring too tight?

Should I be torqueing the piss out of the set screw and not worry about the threads on the die? Should I just be threading the lock ring to only a finger tight position against the press bushing?
Or both of the above?

Because it has been slipping, it has involved more set up time to get it back to my previously measured setting.

 

[Walkalong]

Assuming the set screw to the die threads type, you need something under the screw, a piece of shot works well, heck, Ive used a spitwad in a pinch.

Other wise the set screw can’t get a good hold on the threads.

 

[GeoDudeFlorida]

Use these... Won't damage the threads, don't slip, don't need much torque, and available at hardware stores (the link is to Midway but most places carry them or similar). You shouldn't need much torque on any kind of thread to lock it in place.

 

[JFrank]

Once set place a witness mark ( use a sharpie) on the die the ring and the edge of the press prior to tightening, hold both steady with your fingers while you back off just enough to tighten the set screw without reefing, re apply to the witness marks and give it try.
There is also the PMA micro adjust lock rings as an option but you should be fine without it.
Good shooting
J

 

[brasscollector]

I've been using the sharpie / witness mark for years, works great. I use the lock n load bushings and usually just lightly lock the ring/die/bushing together. Even if I know the die is set where I want it I will mark it with the sharpie so if it gets twisted later I can easily re-adjust it and should (in theory) be right back where I wanted it to be. Also helps when you are in the midst of adjusting/fine tuning so you can see just how far you've moved things.

 

[Charlie98]

I've been using the sharpie / witness mark for years, works great.

I call it an Index Mark... I need to hurry up and copyright that.

With the traditional clamp-type lock rings... like the Hornady... you actually have to back the die out about 1/4 turn, set the lock ring and tighten, then retorque the die back into place. Yes, often you have to readjust it a wee bit to get it exactly where you want it, but your index mark will help you know how much to adjust the lock ring... and with a little practice you'll have it down in a jiffy.

Also... a side note. Make sure you make your final sizer die sets with a cartridge rammed up into the sizer. There is a certain amount of press flex and tolerance slop that will show up between setting the empty die against the shellholder, and once you actually put a case into the die. Try it once and you'll see. It took me years to figure that out.

 

[Walkalong]

I have swapped most of my die locking rings to the Hornady ones with the flats, lock it down and done. I do use index marks on the bushing to match the one on the press for seaters, and some index marks on die parts.

 

[Charlie98]

I have swapped most of my die locking rings to the Hornady ones with the flats

I did that as well... luckly I ordered and got them just before the nonsense kicked off last year. I have one of the old style Hornady flat wrenches that works lickety-split with their lock rings.

 

[CoalCrackerAl]

I use 7/8'' O rings between the die nut and press. Hand tighten the nut against the 0 ring. Got the idea from another post on the ruger forum. With Lee dies you don't have to add the O ring. It's built in.

 

[Walkalong]

I have one of the old style Hornady flat wrenches that works lickety-split with their lock rings.

I welded the working part of mine onto an old handle from a cheap ratchet. Works great.

 

[hdwhit]

Try using a split locking ring. RCBS used to use these, but they are still available from Hornady.

Other than my 5.7mm Johnson (which are constantly in flux) and 9mm Lugar, the last time I adjusted a lock ring was in the early 1990's.

 

[cfullgraf]

I prefer to use split lock rings versus lock rings that the set screw drives directly into the die’s thread.

The Hornady L-N-L lock rings are good split lock rings to use. The flats are nice for removing and seating the die. Lee has a relatively new split ring that comes with its own wrench that looks interesting. I have a couple packages to try but have not done so yet. There are one or two other split rings on the market.

In general, I do not like Lee’s o-ring lock dies. It is too easy to lose your setting because they do not have a positive locking mechanism. They’d be fine in a turret die plate since you remove the turret from the press and do not disturb the dies. I do use the Lee o-ring lock rings on my powder cop dies and powder measure case activated powder dispensing dies. Both of these applications, the settings get reset frequently and the settings do not need to be as precise as for sizing, mouth expanding, and seating/crimping dies. Being able to adjust the lock ring by hand is convienient and it stays put for the life of the reloading session.

As said, once you find the setting, you have to back the die and lock ring off a bit before tightening the lock ring. The reason is, tightening the lock ring will force the ring into the seating suface of the press and it will be a bugger to loosen.

I’ve set up enough dies, I do not mark my dies with a sharpie but it is a good idea. I’d recommend the practice.

 

[berettaprofessor]

Cfullgraf said it exactly about Lee O-rings and turrets but the equivalent in single stage presses are Lee breechlocks. Buy a Lee quick-change bushing for every die, and removal without resetting is a breeze. Anything I don’t have in a turret has a bushing on it.

 

[d31tc]

Good info and tips. It looks like split lock rings might be a better option than the set screw. And Index Marks or Witness Marks . Also sounds like I'm over tightening the die with lock ring against the press. Now to put in a back order, unless someone knows where they are in stock. Who'd of thunk this would be an item in short supply? Is this something that someone would hoard and trade for primers? Well I missed that so it's time to corner the sharpie market...

 

[lightman]

I put a single #6 or #4 piece of shot under the set screw to engage the threads. I like the split rings better but only have a few.

 

[Blazer56]

I have swapped most of my die locking rings to the Hornady ones with the flats, lock it down and done. I do use index marks on the bushing to match the one on the press for seaters, and some index marks on die parts.

Agreed!

Now if I could only find one more package of 6 to finish converting all my other reloading dies...

You know it's bad when you can find primers before you can find Hornady Lock Rings!

 

[9mmepiphany]

I put a single #6 or #4 piece of shot under the set screw to engage the threads. I like the split rings better but only have a few.

That is the way Redding dies come...with a piece of shot between the set screw and the threads. They even include a blurb in their instructions on how to correctly loosen the shot when adjusting the die.

Most of my dies have the Hornady lock rings installed...I usually have a package on hand for when purchasing new dies...but I've left the Redding rings in place. They don't have the "flats" to aid in tightening onto the bushing, so I do check them for looseness before starting each run

 

[SingleActionAndrew]

I've concluded that the Lee *Ultimate* lock rings are the best for me. I have plenty of Redding, Hornady, Dillon and normal Lee rings. They have the o-ring as well as a screw to tighten around the die. I am a big fan of the oring but it's not enough on the original Lee rings, and those are inconvenient to thread vs these which are adjustable tension. YMMV

 

[cfullgraf]

Most of my dies have the Hornady lock rings installed...I usually have a package on hand for when purchasing new dies...but I've left the Redding rings in place. They don't have the "flats" to aid in tightening onto the bushing, so I do check them for looseness before starting each run

Sinclair International makes a couple of wrenches that work well with the round lock rings as found on die sets such as the Redding. They work well when tighting or loosening a die. You squeeze the handle and the wrench grips the lock ring.

The wrenches are die brand specific.

 

[gnappi]

Since I stopped using wax based lubes I don't have to clean my seat or crimp dies any more so I never remove them. I use the Dillon lock nuts without any set screw.

 

[merlynski]

I find that I need (want) to adjust my seating and crimping dies every time I install them in my Rockchucker. So the 'lock' rings are just a temporary position setting. The Lee Universal Decapping die position in my little Lee C press has not been changed in years, or removed unless I need to size cast bullets, so, on that one die, a set position locking ring IS useful.

 

[Misplacedtexan]

Hornady lock rings are the way to go.

 

[Walkalong]

I find that I need (want) to adjust my seating and crimping dies every time I install them in my Rockchucker. So the 'lock' rings are just a temporary position setting.

I set most of my crimp dies to a very firm taper or a heavy roll crimp, lock the ring, and use spacers to adjust for the crimp I want, duly recorded of course. I just reloaded some .380, seated and crimped in one step, with long ago adjusted dies, with no issues. I don't load much variety in .380 though.

 

[Bazoo]

Walkalong, where did you get those spacers? Be handy to have a set like that.

I adjusted a washer thickness a bit and have a spacer between my Lyman Spartan and lee hand press so I can use the same dies without readjustment between the two.

How I set my dies is get it close to where I want and tighten the lock ring a bit, back out the die and ring carefully. Then I dial in by backing off the die, loosen the lock ring, turn the die a smidge, tighten the lock ring, turn the die back in and test again.

 

[Bigdog357]

Walkalong, where did you get those spacers? Be handy to have a set like that.

I adjusted a washer thickness a bit and have a spacer between my Lyman Spartan and lee hand press so I can use the same dies without readjustment between the two.

How I set my dies is get it close to where I want and tighten the lock ring a bit, back out the die and ring carefully. Then I dial in by backing off the die, loosen the lock ring, turn the die a smidge, tighten the lock ring, turn the die back in and test again.

Try McMaster-Carr - (#1008-1010 Carbon Steel Ring Shim Set, 7/8" ID) $18.13 for a set of 19. They also have a Stainless steel set available.