setting up shop.....

[SSN Vet]

Greetings to all you re-loaders out there....

I very much want to set up shop to get into re-loading and have read several of the sticky threads, done several searches and followed a lot of links.

Here's what I want to accomplish....

Low volume re-loading (running 100 to 200 pc batches once a month or so, probably less than 2,000 cartridges/year). I doubt I'll ever get into higher volumes than these.

I want to re-load for the following calibers now.....
30/30 win
.357/.38 special

and then someday adding these calibers.....
.308
.45 ACP

My budget for the initial equipment set up is ~$200 total.

Given my limited funds, Lee looks like it would be my best bet....though the prices at fmreloading.com are so good, I'd like to step up to their Classic Turret Press.

I'd very much appreciate it if some of you guys with experience could comments on my "equipment shopping list" and tell me if I'm missing anything or buying any redundant items. I'm open to other manufacturers equipment.....but only if I can set up for the same $.

Here's the list.....

Lee Classic 4 hole Turret Press ($75)

Lee Carbide DLX 4-die set for .357/.38 (p/n 90964 $28)

Lee extra turret (do I need a 3 or 4 hole one for the 30/30?....$13)

Lee DLX 3-die set for 30/30 win (p/n 90631 $25)

Lee Safety Primer feed (not sure if I need lg, Sm or Lg/Sm....$20)

now, when it comes to powder feeding, here's what I'm thinking....

I have a very nice all purpose digital scale that may be adequate (what accuracy or tolerance do I need?)

Lee Pro Auto Disk looks like the way to go ($28), but do I need a bunch of other stuff with it? (i.e. double stack kit, riser, charging die?) or does it work with the DLX Lee dies without these?

I'm also a little confused about case trimming. The brag on the DLX rifle die literature is that it elliminates or reduces the need to trim cases. So do I still need to trim? (I've been saving my once fired brass to reload)

If so, will this set up do me?

Lee case length gauge & shell holder (p/n 90136 $4)

Lee cutter & lock stud (mounts in drill chuck, p/n 90110, $4)

Lee primer pocket cleaner (p/n 90101, $2)

.........does this overlap with any of the equipment I listed above?

What about cleaning my brass......is there any option to buying a tumbler?

I'm planning to buy bullets in bulk and not have to worry about casting for the time being.

Thanks in advance to anyone who can help me with this.....

I'm not trying to ignite a Lee is great vs. Lee stinks debate here.....I'll consider any mfg. that can get me set up within my budget. I can get all the above listed items, shipped for ~$200.

 

[The Bushmaster]

I noted three things that you didn't mention

1. And most important...A loading manual. Might I recomend The Lyman 48th Edition.

2. If loading .30-30 Winchester (.30 WCF) I would recomend the Lee Factory Crimp Die.

3. You may still need some way to trim your cases and a campher/deburring tool.

On your scale you will need at least a +/-.1 of a grain accuracy.

This may run you over just a bit, but these things are a bit important. Especially the loading manual. Later you need to get at least two more manuals for back to back referencing. A lot of the information you can get from the powder and bullet manufacturers on the internet.

Welcome to reloading the non-curable hobby.

Hummmm...A Sub-Mariner...

 

[DaveInFloweryBranchGA]

Note:

Before you do anything else, buy one of the first two books on the list at the top of the reloading sticky for new reloaders and read it. Also, get a good reloading manual. The Lee will do for what you're looking at doing. Find the powder manufacturers and check loads on their website as well.

Lee Classic 4 hole Turret Press ($75) Good

Lee Carbide DLX 4-die set for .357/.38 (p/n 90964 $28) Good

Lee extra turret (do I need a 3 or 4 hole one for the 30/30?....$13) 4 hole, good

Lee DLX 3-die set for 30/30 win (p/n 90631 $25) Get the four die set that includes the factory crimp die if that have it for that cartridge. If not, get the Lee Factory crimp die in addition to what's included in the set if it isn't included. If I remember right, the 30/30 is a straight walled cartridge and you may not need to trim much, if at all.

Lee Safety Primer feed (not sure if I need lg, Sm or Lg/Sm....$20) Get the one that includes both large and small, you'll end up needing it and it's cheaper buying it together.

now, when it comes to powder feeding, here's what I'm thinking....

I have a very nice all purpose digital scale that may be adequate (what accuracy or tolerance do I need?) Your scale must weigh in grains, since that's what most loads are listed as. If it does not, just get the basic Lee scale to start with. It's accurate, cheap and you can upgrade later when you have more money if you wish. Since you'll just be checking your measure, if you pick a good powder (make sure and check with the Lee guys about your caliber before you buy to select a powder that'll meter good for you), you won't use it a whole lot.

Lee Pro Auto Disk looks like the way to go ($28), but do I need a bunch of other stuff with it? (i.e. double stack kit, riser, charging die?) or does it work with the DLX Lee dies without these?

Yes, it's the way to go. You may want the double disk kit or the micrometer adjustable charge bar (depending on your load) and rifle charging die since you are charging rifle cases. You are reloading rifle, so you can buy the rifle charging die later. You will need the riser to clear the safety prime though.

I'm also a little confused about case trimming. The brag on the DLX rifle die literature is that it elliminates or reduces the need to trim cases. So do I still need to trim? (I've been saving my once fired brass to reload) Someone will be along to answer this one, I don't reload 30/30. You don't need to trim with straight walled pistol.

If so, will this set up do me?

Lee case length gauge & shell holder (p/n 90136 $4) This, I don't know.

Lee cutter & lock stud (mounts in drill chuck, p/n 90110, $4) I don't know.

Lee primer pocket cleaner (p/n 90101, $2) This is a good little simple tool, but you won't need it for pistol and I doubt for rifle. However, you'll need a chamfer/deburring tool.

.........does this overlap with any of the equipment I listed above? No

What about cleaning my brass......is there any option to buying a tumbler?

Yes there is, google "brass cleaning formula" and you'll find an NRA solution you can use to clean your brass until you can afford a tumbler setup. I suggest Frankford Arsenal's tumbler and rotating cage to empty the tumbler media out with. Comes as a set pretty cheap.

Hope this helps,

Dave

 

[The Bushmaster]

The .30-30 is a bottle neck cartridge (not straight wall). The reason for the Lee FCD is because the crimp in the seating die can and will collaps the cartridge shoulder if set too tight. The Lee FCD will illiminate this problem...

 

[SSN Vet]

great replies....thanks

I'm still a little stumped on the Rifle Charging Die....

do you need this if you have the Powder-Thru Expander Die?

 

[The Bushmaster]

Afraid I can't answer that one as I load my rifle cartridges one on a single stage press one at a time and weigh every powder charge. I load my handgun ammunition with the Lee Through Expander die, but again, I weigh even these.

 

[Barr]

If you have a powder through expanding die you do not need a rifle charging die. I load my .270 Winchester single stage with a handpress.

Basic operations I do:

1. Clean any excess dirt or mud off the case.
2. Set my resizing die's (full length die) depth by advancing it until it touches the shell holder and then backing it off a nickel's width (~1/8-1/4 inch). This allows me to neck size the case instead of full length size the case.
3. I then lubricate the case and run it through the die.
4. I then clean the primer pockets, trim the cases, and deburr the mouth of the cases with a chamfering tool.
5. I next run the cases through the tumbler for an hour or two to clean the excess lube off of the cases.
6. I next prime the cases with a Lee hand priming tool.
7. Then, I throw my charges using an RCBS Uniflow powder measure and a funnel.
8. The last step is to seat the bullets (I use jacketed) using the seating die.

When neck sizing you do not necessarily have to lubricate the case, but lube is cheap and I have spent a lot of time fooling with stuck cases. Be generous with the lube. Also, only neck size the cartridge when using a bolt action rifle. Full length size if using a semi-auto, lever, or pump action rifle.

As you can see I do not use a charging or expanding die. These are only really necessary in either a progressive press in order to activate the powder measure or to bell (expand) the mouth of the case if using cast bullets. Otherwise, the case will actually shave the cast bullet a little bit.

 

[happy7]

You need the rifle charging die for loading 30-30. Lee rifle die sets doe not come with powder thru expanding dies, because the case mouth does not need to be expanded. The rifle charging die is a universal die for most rifle calibers. 30-30 is one of the calibers that you can charge with the auto disk measure. One limitation it has is that you are limited to about 40 grains, depending on powder density, which precludes you from loading more powder hungry calibers. Fortunately, for most 30-30 loads, 40 grains is enough. For example the max charge for 3031 with a 150 grain bullet according to Hornady is 31.4 grains. According to Lee you need an auto disk volume of 2.33 (the max is 3.14). However, you will need the double disk kit, as otherwise the max volume is 1.57. In other words to load more than about 20 grains of powder you need the double disk kit. I love the auto disk powder measure. I use it on my Dillon 550. I have several Dillon powder measures, but I have the autodisk set up on a lot of my tool heads. I find it to be accurate and reliable, and call me crazy, more consistent than the dillon measures, at least with ball powders. However, you are limited to jumps of aproximately .3 grains unless you use the micrometer bar, which would not have the capacity for 30-30 and probably not for 357.

I highly recommend you get a balance beam scale. Even if I use a digital scale I like to have the balance beam just to confirm the digital weights. Lee's scale will not set you back much or you can find an RCBS 505 on ebay for about $30.

I also second the recommendation for a reloading book. Either the Lee or the Lyman.

 

[Shoney]

I concur with other posters about a good reloading book, but several is the better way to go. The more the merrier.

Cleaning cases. For the first 30 years of my 46 years of reloading, I cleaned cases by hand; dawn dishwashing detergent and the 3M synthetic scrubbing pads will work well. For really dirty range pickup brass, it has been alledged that I have put them nylon stockings and cycled them in the wifes washing machine when she wasn't home. Alledged, mind you.

When I started serious pistol shooting, I got the tumbler.

I have loaded more than a dozen rifle cartridges and at least 10 pistol cartridges, and have never cleaned the primer pockets, nor ever found the need to clean them, even when using the dirtiest of powders. The primer pocket cleaning tool is unnecesary IMHO.