share little secrets you have picked up over time

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bigfatdave, if you want a water jug to ba a reactive target, shoot with something that makes it react, not something that allows follow-ups. :D
 
nalioth said:
Who has the URL to the other thread like this?
To answer my own question and ask you guys one.

Don't you think these "helpful hint" posts should all be in the same thread?

It keeps the helpful folks from getting tired of answering the same thing, and provides a single thread full of wonderful knowledge.

Here's the 100+ post original helpful hint thread.
 
if you want a water jug to ba a reactive target, shoot with something that makes it react, not something that allows follow-ups.
We're talking about long-range .22 handgunning here - they make the hanging jug jerk and swing, but aren't about to make it go boom.
Now, for defensive rounds, I like 2L soda bottles, they hang nice, are about the right size for COM aim, and go boom impressively. Those I shoot dead center ... or at least AIM for dead center.
 
little secret?

500gr. 500S&W Hornady rounds hurt alot when shot through a uncompensated wood gripped revolver.
 
It was a friend who did this, I promise, but leaning with your back against a tree when it's your first time shooting a 10 gouge is not the best idea. (he borke his collar bone)
 
buck my friends grandfather did this in WWII with an m1 garand and a rifle grenade

he leaved against a stone wall and shattered his collar bone and shoulder blade
 
Tips and tricks.

Been a while since we had a tips and tricks thread (unless I missed it). So I thought I'd start one. I get chatty when I'm tired, so I thought I'd ramble about something useful (and then go take a nap)...

Gunscrubber = non clorinated brake cleaner that cost more. I dont know what gun scrubber costs, as I've only bought one can of it. Non-clorinated brakecleaner is about two or three bucks a can at walmart. I use the CRC BraKleen, if you do the same, get the green can.

Make-up applicators are handy for cleaning guns. They're like q-tips, with a point on one side and a ball on the other. And they dont fall apart like Q tips. I normally get mine at the grocery store, just about anywhere that sells make up should have them. You get used to the weird looks after a while.

A ball bearing in Break-free CLP aids in mixing it. Also, laying the bottle on its side rather than standing it up seems to help as well.

RIG works well to keep rust from forming under grip panels. I think I sweat acid or something.

A points file, available at the auto parts store of your choice, comes in handy for removing burrs on new parts, mag catch holes, etc. You could get a "jeweler's file" but they normally cost more.

Also available at most parts houses are Kimberly-Clark Wypalls. They're tougher than paper towels, and disposable. No more tearing up T shirts to clean your guns.

When changing the safety on a Mossberg shotgun, unload it (of course, and double and triple check it), place it on safe, and zip tie the trigger back. The pressure on the trigger keeps pressure on the safety, and helps hold it in place. This way you dont have to tear it down to replace the plastic safety. Dont lose the .125" ball bearing.

The plastic boxes for CCI minimags are handy for storing boresnakes.

Number your magazines. Makes it a lot easier to tell them apart if you're having problems out of one. It can also clear up a problematic firearm that only jams every so often. If it only does it with your #3 mag, chances are its the mag. I use a paintmarker (available in the arts and crafts section of walmart) on just about all of them but steel pistol mags, which get engraved, and then filled in with a paintmarker for better visibility (the paint scrapes off the side of the mag).

$1 for a pair of earplugs doesn't seem bad, however you can get a box of 200 for about 30 bucks at Northern tool. That's 15 cents a pair. They're uncomfortable, but they work.

.50 cal ammo cans hole a lot of ammo, but it gets heavy. .30 cal cans hold a lot of ammo too, but they dont break your back when you carry them.

Dont put off cleaning a 1911 for 5000 rounds or so. You may have to bead blast it to get it clean... Not a big deal if its stainless, which, thankfully, mine is.
 
A pack of cards makes great targets for my 22.
The waxed paper makes it so you can see the holes real easy, and shooting at the pips is ohhh sooo cool.
Otherwise waxed paper plates and a thumb tack are good too.

Camo wrap is awesome. It's like co-ban stretchy tape that only sticks to itself. You can wrap up your favorite old wood rifle and unwrap when you get home. Add a couple rubber bands and you can tuck little bits of local grass or leaves along the rifle to break the profile even more.

Either shotgun or handgun, stagger the rounds smallest first.
#7 birdshot is great for snake, or scaring off rabid looking critters, a single CCI shotshell saved my bacon in camp vs a friendly rattler at my feet.
Next shot is either BB or heavy turkey load then buckshot in the scattergun and JHP in my .40. You never know what critter you'll encounter (even the 2 legged kind) and having a variety of tools while keeping simple is handy.)

(Okay... don't laugh...)
Velcro. High test, super tough, self adhesive velcro. I custom cut it to hold a shot-shell holder on my Mossberg 535 22" turkey scattergun. Can't hunt legally with a shotshell holder, but slap a loaded one on the gun and load on the go and I have a fairly adept tactical shotgun. I've shot a hundred rounds through it and the shell holder stays put but i can peel it off easily and slap on a backup for reloads.

Learn to shoot left handed.
Broke my dominant arm and still wanted to shoot so i learned weak side. Did some IDPA shooting and found lots of situations that I could use it. Changing is tough given, but in real life i'll sacrifice score for concealment behind a solid barrier which off hand shooting can give you. And during the 3 months that I couldn't lift a gun, i could still use one to defend myself...

Just my 2 cents
 
When taking those dumb concealed-carry shooting tests with the mechanical targets that turn sideways so you can't see them and then suddenly turn back for a few seconds, I just aim at my neighbor's target's chest area (which I can see) and then swing the gun over to mine when the targets turn! :D
 
After shooting your first 20 30-30 reloads from your buddy's front porch and setting your Marlin 336 down for a minute or two don't try to pick it up by grabbing the barrel:banghead: Even though it's cooled for a minute or so, it's still hot and will burn the F%^$ out of your hand.
 
Buy packs of plastic green Army men at the grocery store for $0.99 and set them on the backstop for targets. They are hard to hit with a .22 LR at 100 yards.
 
When shooting a 50 cal for the first time, put a set of foam ear plugs in your ears under the over the head ear protectors.
 
Speaking of velcro, I bought some velcro and a small sewing kit/thick black thread from the store. I took my Uncle Mikes pocket holster for my S&W 642 and stitched (rather crudely) a strip of the soft side of velcro to the upper left side of the holster. I then stitched (even more crudely) a strip of the hook side of velcro on the inside of the right front pocket of my favorite jacket. Now when my 642 and pocket holster go into the big cavernous jacket pocket, I press it against the inside of the jacket pocket and it stays upright in a perfect quick-grab position all day long. It also helps to keep the holster in place when drawing the gun. Strong, secure, and tactically much better than fishing around in the pocket to find the grip of a revolver.
 
When shooting a Colt Challenger or Woodsman the slide will cut you like a surgeon if you do not hold it properly. Honest. It will cut you so clean you won't even know you were cut (lol)

(note! clean the blood off the gun before you fix your hand:D)
 
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