Sharpener recommendation

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Clockwerk

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Houston, Texas
Hi everyone I'm kind of new to blades and getting used to all the different types of steels used to make blades and I was wondering if anyone had any brand preferences on sharpeners or sharpening tools and equipment? Excuse my ignorance :p.
 
Attention mr. Clock

I have used the spyderco v-stick sharpening system for the past 20 years. It can do knives, machetes, scissors, veg peelers, ice picks, fishing hooks, etc. Cold steel knives sells their competitors sharpening system in the cold steel catalog--that's how good the system performs.
 
Hmmm i'll take a look into that. I have some tanto edges that need a touch up and my EDC is in dire need of attention. Thanks a bunch!
 
I also use the Spyderco sharpener and I really like it.
For a "finished" scary edge a Strop can be made by gluing a section of an old leather belt to a piece of wood .
Cardboard unstead of the leather works well also.
 
Mr. Clock

Clyde e. Fischer (rip) was a charter member of the custom knife makers guild & one of my closest amigos for almost 30 years. Here is a tip he passed on to me. After smoothing the freshly sharpened edge on a leather belt, do a final polishing on denim blue jean fabric. Denim when looked at under a microscope, looks like fine grit metal finishing paper. Give it a try !!!!!
 
Yeah I have been using a wet stone and leather belt for the longest time but it doesn't work so well for some edges of some of my knives (The wet stone that is). But leather works wonders. The denim part is new to me. I have a bunch of old jeans I can use thanks! One question on the leather though how long should I be using the leather before I replace it? And how long should I be "polishing"(not sure if that's the right term) is on the leather for? Thanks you two.
 
Spyderco Tri-Angle at home, Spyderco Duckfoot in the field, two sided puck for machetes, axes, and the Woodsman's Pal
 
a TON of people swear by the Spyderco Sharpmaker. i do not like it. if you decide you want one, pm me, i'll sell ya mine. it hasn't been used sense i got an EdgePro Apex :)
 
Mr. Clock

The leather belt i use is about 2" x 32" in length. One side is smooth & the other is rough. I make 6 passes on each side, beginning with the rough & then polish on the denim cloth.

Btw: I have had the leather belt since 1977. It was from an old safariland holster rig that just wore through in 2 places, so i now use it strictly for knife sharpening.
 
I use the Spyderco Sharpmaker for general use and touch-ups, a set of Japanese waterstones for kitchen knives and very hard (>63)carbon steel, and strops for convex and other misc polishing.

I did a series of stropping videos for Derek at KnivesShipFree. Check them out!
 
Thanks mr. Clock

Clyde e. Fischer (charter member: International knife makers guild)--died in 2001. He was my mentor, teacher, shooting bud, & knife making icon in the state of texas--go to your favorite search engine & type in "clyde fischer knives"---his knives which sold in the 1970's for about $80.00 are now commanding prices close to & in excess of $1000.00 !!! I am blessed to have two y-o hunters i bought in 1977 & they are locked in my safe never to see the woods again.

When a knife maker of his talent offers to teach you how to sharpen knives, it was like god speaking to moses from mt. Sinai---btw: I was moses !!!! I am passing on to others the knowledge he passed on to me. Additional tips from "fish":

1. Never store a knife in the leather sheath---tanning acids can cause permanent damage to the blade.
2. Wash off blood as quickly as possible---lots of salt in blood.
3. Hand wash knives in hot soapy water. Rinse with hot water & towel dry immediately.
4. Never use the knife for any chore it was not intended to be used for.
 
Whoa I never knew that about leather sheaths. Why do so many knives come in leather then? BTW those are some wicked hunting knives Mr. Fischer made. RIP. I just noticed you're a fellow Texan am I correct?
 
Mr. Clock

Born in harris county, baytown, 1951---3 gen exxon brat. Family moved from tenn to texas in 1824--been here ever since !!!!
 
Long term knife storage tips

1. Remove knife from sheath--leather or nylon
2. After cleaning blade with soap, hot water, & towel dry, polish the blade, hilt, & handle with flitz or maas metal polish.
3. Remove polish with soft cotton towel. Put a dab of your favorite carnuba clear coat auto wax on the cloth & smear over the entire knife. Let dry to haze & then buff off.
4. Tightly roll knife in clean newspaper & secure with rubber band.
5. Place knife in sturdy plastic zipper bag along with a small pack of silica gel. Press air out of bag & seal shut.

Note: On step #5, you can also use a vac sealer bag appliance if one is available.
 
Cream metal polish

Mother's is a great product in its own way & for protecting your knife, it would be fine, but keep it away from blued surfaces. Inside the bore of barrels & for polishing parts with a dremel tool, ok.

For polishing & protecting the outside of your firearms, flitz / maas / simichrome are excellent.

Where in harris county did your mama bring you into this world & what year ???
 
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