Sharpening more than knives

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SoCalShooter

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So I saw the spyderco sharpmaker from several threads. But I need to sharpen my tomahawks. Also I have a need to sharpen my game tools.

Any suggestions for the tomahawks also I am not worried about doing it quickly just making sure they are sharp, same with my pocket blades etc.

Do people still use whetstones?

Need all the help I can get cause I don't have any experience with sharpening. Thanks.
 
Spyderco Sharpmaker should be able to handle it.

Basically its 4 stones (two different "grits") that you can arrange using either the flats or edges at a couple different angles. Also there are two brass rods that serve as guards to protect your hands while holding the base down
 
I swear by the Spyderco sharpening system for all my knife sharpening.
For the heaver things like axes, mower blades, splitting wedges etc.,I use a 6inch belt sander.
Practice on a piece of scrap for awhile to get the knack of grinding a uniform bevel on tools and finish off axe heads with a carborundum "axe"stone.
Respectfully, Zeke
 
I used the Spyderco sharpner on my hawk. Worked great, but it took a while until I got the edge reprofiled.
Bob
 
Dunno if it'll help ya, But there is a sharpener attachment I got with my dremel. (I live in an apartment so I've yet to use it on any "heavy" equiptment)
 
Personally I'd trust it to put a utility edge. On something like an axe or wedge. (Got to point out that I haven't lived in any areas where I regularly do any woodcutting or splitting. So I'm unsure if that type of utility edge would be worthwhile)

But as to a razored edge I'm sticking with the Spyderco Sharpener.

As for using it to sharpen knives. I couldn't tell you. But I am interested. I think I'll pick up a cheapo knife at the next gunshow and test it out. Was just trying to give you an alternate to a belt sander.
 
For most people it would be best to stay with something like the sharpmaker system. I would personally not use a dermel tool of any kind on at good knife. One thing I have used in the pass when I first started was a good mills file to reprofile a blade or sharpen a axe. We use to cut a lot of wood and used a lot of axes for trim work...always used a mills file.

I now use a edgepro to sharpen all my knives.

bladeforums.com is a good place to look for knife information.
 
"...experience with sharpening..." It's got to do with the angle of the edge. Knives are usually 20 degrees, axes 25. Knives usually have a finer edge than an axe. Most sharpening kits are adjustable. I wouldn't use a rotary tool either. Not enough control.
Get a steel. It'll keep a sharp knife blade true. Under magnification, knife edges aren't straight. They're wavy. A steel takes out the waviness without removing metal. They'll help with a 'hawk, but a stone is better. A net search for sharpening axes will help too.
 
ill tell ya what ive found out. that 20 degree edge thing is misleading. if you sharpen at 20 deg on each side you get a blunt 40 deg edge when your done. you want 15 to 20 degree total. so sharpen at 10 deg or less on each side.
 
if you sharpen at 20 deg on each side you get a blunt 40 deg edge when your done. you want 15 to 20 degree total. so sharpen at 10 deg or less on each side.

This will give you a very sharp, but very fragile edge. This may or may not be desirable.
 
I'd not recommend using a Dremel. They've killed plenty of good firearms and knives over the years.

You can get a decent belt-sander for ~$100 at Home Depot or OSH. After some practice, you will be able to put an excellent edge on any tomahawk, knife, blade or tool you will ever own.
 
Don't use power tools to sharpen fine tools like knives or axes. Too much material is removed too soon.

Don't use the Dremmel attachement to sharpen anything that you don't want to have a lawnmower angle on the bevel. This applies to knives.

Learn to sharpen by hand. You can use a Sharp Maker or Gatco sticks or even self adhesive wet/dry sandpaper on glass or marble, but learn to work without power first.
 
I guess that would depend on the power tool , a belt grinder can put an awesome edge on a knife. And I have seen plenty of folks who use a 1 x42 or 1 x30 belt machine to do the edge. It does take allot of practice.

A good set of stones will do all you need though,
 
Sharpening knives, axes, etc.

Hi guys. Happy almost New Year's wishes to you all.

I've been in the business for a little over 20 years, and I recommend Idahone Inc.'s Crock Stick set or the Spyderco Sharpmaker to anyone looking for an almost fool-proof method of re-sharpening knives or other sharpened tools. The only drawback to these systems is that the abrasive rods are a relatively fine grit. If your tools are "butter-knife dull", it will take a very long time to re-sharpen them using either of these systems. Spyderco makes a pair of diamond coated rods for their system which would save some time, but these sell for $100/pair and I have yet to find them available anywhere since they were introduced at the 2004 Blade Show.

For your heavy tools, (axes, etc.),you may want to try a combination stone made of aluminum oxide. I call these "hardware store stones" because you can usually find them in just about any hardware store, and they are usually relatively inexpensive. You can mount this type of stone on a bench to give you better control of your tool. Plus, with both hands on the tool, it's less likely that you will cut yourself during the re-sharpening process.

Best of luck!
 
I like whet stones

maybe just because of the enjoyment of the process.

For something like a hawk or axe, broad axe, draw knife, etc... I will put the tool in a vice and use the stone instead of moving the tool against the still stone.

Hawks I keep not so sharp since they are mostly used, by me, for throwin'

good luck

st
 
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