Shopping for well-priced used guns

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Pricing guns can be tricky. Local conditions often dictate demand, which can alter prices. Here in Michigan the southern half of the state is a no rifle zone for deer hunting. A used rifled 12 gauge will sell for a lot more there than up north.

One trick I use to get general price guidelines is to search GunBroker.com. If you just go with the standard search you will find lots of unrealistic, inflated prices. But if set it to filter for highest number of bids you will get a realistic idea of what people are willing to pay, at least for the guns listed.

IronHand
 
I can find deals on gunbroker, but really have to look. My guess is that about 70% of the reserve and "buy it now" prices on GB are way too high, as in well above market value. Another 25% are in the gray area of high-normal retail price, and only about 5% are worth owning at the price they're asking.
 
Brick and mortar gun/pawn shops? Trial and error. Gun shows are usually better sources for most guns, since there are so many dealers under one roof, all competing against each other. I like to go to them when they first open on Sat. AM to try to locate hard-to-find items, then again on Sun afternoon to try to find deals on the run-of-the-mill stuff. Gotten some great deals on Sun afternoon after a "dead" show from dealers who just want to cover booth fees, load up less stuff, and get some gas $. Business Is business.
 
I don't typically find reasonably priced used guns in my area, or the ones I'm looking for. So as a result I tend to just look on Gunbroker if I'm looking for a past model.
 
How do you find a really good source of well-priced, quality, used handguns?
Maybe a Hi-Power for example.
Finding a bargain Hi-Power would be luck. The Hi-Power has never been inexpensive, especially in this era of new polymer $500 pistols, a new Hi-Power was a $1,000 gun. Now that they've stopped production, don't expect to see bargain basement Hi-Powers floating around. However, as the fella's mentioned above, if you could live with a pistol in .40S&W there are bargains to be had.
 
Been fairly lucky here just stopping in to see what they've got.

I usually head to the "orphan bin" first to see what's new. Sometimes there's a good deal, sometimes there's not. Recently purchased a Uberti 45 Colt for just over $100 because the dealer at the gun show table thought it was "only an Armi". Several other F2F sales that were good deals (IMHO) and a few from a pawn shop or two. Hardest thing nowadays is trying to find something that scratches that itch (that I don't already have). I'm content...
 
Finding a bargain Hi-Power would be luck. The Hi-Power has never been inexpensive, especially in this era of new polymer $500 pistols, a new Hi-Power was a $1,000 gun. Now that they've stopped production, don't expect to see bargain basement Hi-Powers floating around. However, as the fella's mentioned above, if you could live with a pistol in .40S&W there are bargains to be had.

If one wants a well priced Hi Power, the new Regent BR9 by Tisas is a great gun. I own one and it shoots great.

I wish people would stop telling people to get a .40S&W pistol, all that does is just raise prices.
 
One benefit of folks who jack their prices way up on used guns is, if it's still being made, it makes it practical to buy it new.
Many folks are selling used guns with problems for as close to retail as they can get. I only consider buying used when a
gun is out of production. (not like that lowers the price any)

IME, you have to plow through a massive pile of poo to find the occasional pearl. I probably look at 15-20k guns, at least, before I find
something I want, in proper condition, for the price I want.
 
Gunbroker will likely be your best bet, unfortunately. I've seen some nice deals in a couple of pawn shops, but those usually were old models and blind luck (found a Makarov double stack in a rough neighborhood, it was listed low because it "wasn't really a 9" per the salesman).
Obviously 9mm Makarov.
Also got a Tisas 1911 somewhere, used.

Got a CZ 27 from one place, got a couple .22's at another (Ruger Mk II, H&R Sportsman, High Standard Sport King). But by and large, they don't match the deals you can find on GB.

I recently was looking at some FEG HP clones (got outbid on them) on gunbroker, was surprised to see them being listed by a big local shop. They used to carry a lot of used guns, it's where I got the Tisas and several of the .22's. I called and asked about whether they were in the used counter, and was told "we don't do that now, we list online". :(

My hard-and-fast rule regarding used guns, I set a top price limit, choose a category of firearm, do some internet research, and start hunting. For me, I go $300 ($325 absolute max), and focus on metal-framed duty guns (often surplus).
Regarding categories, I will look for 9mm duty guns, 9x18 Warsaw Pact guns, .45 1911s, old .32 acp pistols currently, and have a couple .22's also. I avoid looking at .40s, 10mms, and .380s because I don't want to open another caliber.
I have not exceeded my max, and have been patient enough to let some things slip away (but also have struck when I found things). At this range I have found in 9mm:
  • Sig Sauer P226, $315
  • Beretta 92FS, $299
  • Star 30MI, $300
  • CZ 75 (pre B), $325 (with box) and $305
  • Beretta 92S, $230
  • Daewoo DP 51, $240
  • Croatian PHP MV9 with case and 2 mags, $220
  • FEG HP clone, $210
  • Zastava CZ 99, $199
  • S&W 915, $240
  • Star Model B Super, $249
  • Star BM with box and 2 mags, $227
This is almost all off gunbroker, a couple were from shops online. Some were cosmetically challenged (the Sig and one of the CZs), but all are great shooters.
The only gun that I decided I wanted, and really had to wait to find one at the right price range, was the Sig. I rolled the dice on the Sig, because I also saw a couple roughly refinished P228's for $320 buy now, and was sorely tempted; but I instead bid and waited on the P226 (which I wanted more), and won it at my highest bid.

Several were impulse buys (the CZ 99, the FEG HiPower, the Star BM) brought on by price.

The Daewoo was the only pistol that required some work soon after buying, I replaced a trigger bar. Parts are available online cheap, and Lionheart parts fit.

After shooting these at the range, some extensively, I would now say that I would trust all but the PHP MV9 for serious protection. That one hasn't given me trouble, I just wouldn't want to push it too hard. For the record it's accurate as heck.

Hope this helps.
 
To expand on some of what I just posted, there are some that I would consider 'serious' pistols, and some I have for the sake of owning them. I think all of them are at least 25 yrs old, some a good bit older.

The Sig P226 is a W German 1991, the Beretta 92FS is 94, the CZs are 88 and 92, and the S&W is 92 (I think). Imagine the date on the Daewoo is similar, and since the CZ 99 is marked Yugoslavia, I would say no later than 92 at the latest. Any of these pistols (after working on the Daewoo and running 500 flawless rds through), I would consider the equal to anything on the market new (certainly at their price, and I'd say equal to current products of the same brand). Star is gone and I would be careful with the B and BM, but I don't think I can hurt the 30MI if I tried, it's a beast of a pistol. I also don't think I can truly hurt the S&W, but there are plenty of 3rd Gen parts out there if need be.

The Sig, Beretta and CZ live up to their reputations, and the S&W is a rugged little underated gun. The Daewoo is also quite surprising in it's quality (Lionheart now sells an "upgraded" one), and the CZ 99 is just a fully functional and reliable beast, quite possibly a sleeper for 'best gun for value' when you look new.
 
IMO the best way to save money on a firearms is not paying sales tax, not paying ffl transfers, and not paying shipping. Those three things combined account for the greatest margin of savings overall, and they alone can turn a fair deal into a good deal if it's local and hassle free. At today's prices I'm more inclined to buy new. I check Armslist daily for 3 cities within an hours drive and used guns are often priced equal to new, and frequently 10-15% more than can be found online, even after paying fees. A lot of my offers are rejected but that's the game. No offense intended to the sellers but you'd be a fool to pay their asking price.
 
IMO the best way to save money on a firearms is not paying sales tax, not paying ffl transfers, and not paying shipping. Those three things combined account for the greatest margin of savings overall, and they alone can turn a fair deal into a good deal if it's local and hassle free. At today's prices I'm more inclined to buy new. I check Armslist daily for 3 cities within an hours drive and used guns are often priced equal to new, and frequently 10-15% more than can be found online, even after paying fees. A lot of my offers are rejected but that's the game. No offense intended to the sellers but you'd be a fool to pay their asking price.
I certainly agree. But if you can avoid shipping and cc charges and tax, the FFL fee is often negligible when the price is really a good one. Mail order often features all those savings.
 
Hi...
I have found the best deals are wherever you find them.
I make a tour of the local gun shops every couple of weeks looming for a good deal on used guns. Recently found a really nice Remington M700 in .270 for about $600.
I have within the last year bought a couple of Ruger BlackHawks for less than $350.
I also frequent the local gun auctions. Some really good buys to be had there...not just guns but also reloading equipment and supplies. I recently bought a very nice Contender in .45Colt for $400.
I have also bought a LNL progressive press brand new for $200.
There are deals out there...you need to invest the time and effort.
 
How do you find a really good source of well-priced, quality, used handguns?
One thing we're doing in our replies is that we're being generic in answers... "check pawns a lot", "check gunbroker" etc.

There are many, many guns being sold used, that are imported by one of several importers, and if you chase the trail back to the original importers, you will often find the best deals, by eliminating the middle man.

Century Arms (CAI), Interarms, etc- these guys do the actual importing and selling to the middle-men. If you find a gun with that stamp on it, the seller itself doesn't matter, it's the price you get.

Cole's Distributing (CDISales)- they bring in a ton of stuff over from Israel, and the import mark tends to be hidden. Usually runs a storefront on gunbroker; oddly I just searched and they don't have anything listed. It was from them, that I bought the $305 CZ 75, the $199 CZ 99, and the $210 FEG Hi Power. They were also the ones with the $300 P228's listed.
R Guns- also has a storefront on gunbroker, it's where I got the Beretta 92S.

Another tip on Gunbroker- try to learn actual gun models, instead of using generic terms for searches. For example- "Hi Power" will give you lots of options, that lots of people look at and bid on. The recent Hi Power clone I bid on did not appear on that search... it was listed as FEG P9M. The seller listed it as that, it wasn't viewed a lot. It sold for $255, I was willing to go $250 since I already own a couple. This was a blued finish with some wear, with wooden grips, and basically 100% Browning parts compatibility. They also will list as FEG 9HP, etc.
If it doesn't show up in the broad generic searches, you will be competing against a much smaller pool.

Before anyone tells you "you get what you pay for", remember that we are discussing metal-framed pistols that are often still in production (or recently so), and almost always have parts readily available. They are not disposable items like cellphones. You are REALLY going to have to work to harm a steel framed pistol. 99% of the time, something might have surface rust or even some pitting. With steel, that can be polished away and refinished. Aluminum doesn't rust, it just seems to wear and scratch. That can be touched up if black. All metal frames and slides can be bead-blasted and then painted (cerakote, etc). As for parts, springs and mags for popular guns are usually one click away. I replaced the extractors on both CZ 75's over the years with factory new (crom CZ USA), $30 and they drop right in. Wolff springs, find the correct mags, good to go.

The P226, it had extensive loss of finish on the slide, with some pitting. I very carefully cleaned that up with a small file at home, sanded the slide by hand with 600 grit wet/dry paper, and have some cold blue on it. Bought a new recoil spring and a couple grip screws, some mecgar mags, it also is back in the game.

The Daewoo DP 51 is a pretty obscure gun, but there are parts around if you look. And the Lionheart LH9 is very simply a new manufactured DP 51 with some customizing- slide has some front serrations milled, gun has been cerakoted, there are different grips and options for Novak sights. The core gun is the same, parts should fit either.

The Zastava CZ 99 is also obscure, but has evolved into the the EZ9 and CZ999. Again, same core gun, mags should fit, springs (if you get the same barrel length) should also.

The FEG- the key is to get the HP clone, if you get that Browning HP parts all fit. If you are ok with a non-Colt 1911 (such as Ruger, RIA, etc), then an oldschool forged frame and slide Hi Power with a different rollmark shouldn't be too big an issue.

Regarding metallurgy and off-brands- we're not talking about Khyber Pass guns. Companies like FEG, Star, Zastava and Daewoo have a long history of making firearms that are intended for actual military use, in areas that used them. Warranties aren't really an issue, since these usually were already extensively quality-checked in the real world, and at this point standard maintenance is the only concern.

Certain manufacturers have strong followings, and checking their forums can lead to information on good used deals. CZ, Sig, Beretta, S&W all have strong forums where people discuss these guns.
 
One thing we're doing in our replies is that we're being generic in answers... "check pawns a lot", "check gunbroker" etc.

There are many, many guns being sold used, that are imported by one of several importers, and if you chase the trail back to the original importers, you will often find the best deals, by eliminating the middle man.

Century Arms (CAI), Interarms, etc- these guys do the actual importing and selling to the middle-men. If you find a gun with that stamp on it, the seller itself doesn't matter, it's the price you get.

Cole's Distributing (CDISales)- they bring in a ton of stuff over from Israel, and the import mark tends to be hidden. Usually runs a storefront on gunbroker; oddly I just searched and they don't have anything listed. It was from them, that I bought the $305 CZ 75, the $199 CZ 99, and the $210 FEG Hi Power. They were also the ones with the $300 P228's listed.
R Guns- also has a storefront on gunbroker, it's where I got the Beretta 92S.

Another tip on Gunbroker- try to learn actual gun models, instead of using generic terms for searches. For example- "Hi Power" will give you lots of options, that lots of people look at and bid on. The recent Hi Power clone I bid on did not appear on that search... it was listed as FEG P9M. The seller listed it as that, it wasn't viewed a lot. It sold for $255, I was willing to go $250 since I already own a couple. This was a blued finish with some wear, with wooden grips, and basically 100% Browning parts compatibility. They also will list as FEG 9HP, etc.
If it doesn't show up in the broad generic searches, you will be competing against a much smaller pool.

Before anyone tells you "you get what you pay for", remember that we are discussing metal-framed pistols that are often still in production (or recently so), and almost always have parts readily available. They are not disposable items like cellphones. You are REALLY going to have to work to harm a steel framed pistol. 99% of the time, something might have surface rust or even some pitting. With steel, that can be polished away and refinished. Aluminum doesn't rust, it just seems to wear and scratch. That can be touched up if black. All metal frames and slides can be bead-blasted and then painted (cerakote, etc). As for parts, springs and mags for popular guns are usually one click away. I replaced the extractors on both CZ 75's over the years with factory new (crom CZ USA), $30 and they drop right in. Wolff springs, find the correct mags, good to go.

The P226, it had extensive loss of finish on the slide, with some pitting. I very carefully cleaned that up with a small file at home, sanded the slide by hand with 600 grit wet/dry paper, and have some cold blue on it. Bought a new recoil spring and a couple grip screws, some mecgar mags, it also is back in the game.

The Daewoo DP 51 is a pretty obscure gun, but there are parts around if you look. And the Lionheart LH9 is very simply a new manufactured DP 51 with some customizing- slide has some front serrations milled, gun has been cerakoted, there are different grips and options for Novak sights. The core gun is the same, parts should fit either.

The Zastava CZ 99 is also obscure, but has evolved into the the EZ9 and CZ999. Again, same core gun, mags should fit, springs (if you get the same barrel length) should also.

The FEG- the key is to get the HP clone, if you get that Browning HP parts all fit. If you are ok with a non-Colt 1911 (such as Ruger, RIA, etc), then an oldschool forged frame and slide Hi Power with a different rollmark shouldn't be too big an issue.

Regarding metallurgy and off-brands- we're not talking about Khyber Pass guns. Companies like FEG, Star, Zastava and Daewoo have a long history of making firearms that are intended for actual military use, in areas that used them. Warranties aren't really an issue, since these usually were already extensively quality-checked in the real world, and at this point standard maintenance is the only concern.

Certain manufacturers have strong followings, and checking their forums can lead to information on good used deals. CZ, Sig, Beretta, S&W all have strong forums where people discuss these guns.
Terrific advice. Thanks.
 
Yep, that's the way to do it. Sell a bunch at lower prices vs the other way around.
But don’t forget that the place where you can buy used guns cheap is not likely where you want to go to sell or trade in a used gun. I mean you can’t have your cake and eat it too.
 
Great posts from Dave. I have similar methods and opinions.

I'll search finished sales with multiple bids (and no reserve) on Gunbroker to find what a really good price is on a model I want. Then I check/watch/bid for a while, sometimes months, until I get what I want for the price I want. I get some amazing deals that way.

"You get what you pay for" is often poorly quoted. Military surplus and police trade-ins are often very inexpensive, but I have gotten many excellent handguns that way. I pay partially in money and partially with time, effort, and knowledge .

For me, getting a great handgun for cheap is a lot of fun. I've gotten to where I expect to find good handguns (eventually) for around $200, and am rarely willing to pay more.
 
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