Should I start reloading shotgun shells

snowman357

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I reload everything I shoot except 7.62x39. I will probably only load skeet shells and buckshot with a few slugs. I do not shoot shotguns very much, hunting with a rifle but would probably shoot more shotgun if shells become cheaper. I price 00 buck reloads not buying shells and the cost was 70 cent each. I would casually shoot skeet and home defense target practice. Does anyone have cheaper components, I priced mine at midsouth shooters. If I do reload shot shells will a lee load all be worth messing with?

Snowman357
 
The short answer is no, based on your usage.

If you just want another iron in the fire, then go for it.
I have Mec's and love them.
I have not loaded on a Lee, but their presses have been around a long time and millions of quality shells have probably been produced.

This isn't like loading a rifle round as far as "better ammo for the same price" situation.

You don't monkey around with shot shell recipes. You stick strictly to the data and get a comparable round.

I loaded thousands and thousands, back in the day.

After lead went thru the roof and my shotgun games tapered off, it just was not worth it to load them anymore.

I haven't checked material prices in a long time. Probably 10 years.

It is an easy and enjoyable activity.
 
I load for the 12 gauge, but only because I'm interested in weird and/or expensive things, like blackpowder, slugs, etc.

Otherwise, I'd just stick with "promo" target loads, etc.
 
Can you only reload certain types of shells?
If I understand your question correctly....

There is load data for many different mfr's hulls and their different hulls.
In a nut shell, you have to stick to THAT specific hull recipe.

Same hull, wad, primer, powder, shot etc.
 
Two MEC 600-JR(s) here ... don't even think about Lee unless very sporadic/casual shooting.

***********************************************************************
The real advantage (these days) is being able to tailor loads to performance levels you literally can't buy anymore .
My 3/4 oz 12ga is running about $5.00 a box when handloaded (GunClub hulls are free pickups for 6-8 reloads)
(That load also keeps me from buying a 28 gauge) :neener:

1-1/8 oz load is about $6

Assumes $50/brick Cheddite primers
Kick each box up another $1 if Fiocchi or Rio at today's prices.

******* The above was Dec`21 costs **** think 20% higher now******

The MEC600-JR can be simply C-Clamped to the table top
It takes about 15-min to set up/adjust for perfect shells
After that -- just load away



Try to find/buy 410 lately ?
:cuss:
 
The math doesn't add up I guess, where are buckshot rounds for 50 cent?
.44cpr if you join their club.
I have never used this place, can't vouch for their service.


Same disclaimer as above.


Again, same disclaimer as above.

https://www.gunbuyer.com/sellier-bellot-12ga-2-75-00-buck-shot-25-round-box-sb12bsg.html

I have used these guys and have never had a problem.

 
Can you only reload certain types of shells?
If I understand your question correctly....

There is load data for many different mfr's hulls and their different hulls.
In a nut shell, you have to stick to THAT specific hull recipe.

Same hull, wad, primer, powder, shot etc.
I was just wondering if the 100 round bulk pack 12 gauge shells with the aluminum bases can be reloaded or should I throw them away.
 
Can you only reload certain types of shells?

I was just wondering if the 100 round bulk pack 12 gauge shells with the aluminum bases can be reloaded or should I throw them away.
Yes, but they are steel bases, not aluminum.
 
I load shotshell but only for buckshot now.
I tried loading birdshot and there's just not enough savings to be had for it to be worth it.
I cast my own buckshot and load that.

I have 3 MEC Jr presses and one Lee Load All.
Take the above advice and don't bother with the Lee. Feels like something made by Fisher Price. The MECs are solid machines.
 
Can you only reload certain types of shells?

I was just wondering if the 100 round bulk pack 12 gauge shells with the aluminum bases can be reloaded or should I throw them away.

There are two main types of hulls, and consequently, two types of wads made for them.
There are tapered wall hulls, and straight walled hulls. (Sometimes referred to as Riefenheiser type hulls.) The taper type hulls are Winchester AA, Remington Gun Club, Rem. STS, Remington Nitro 27 and Nitro Gold, and Federal HOA. Everything else is straight walled. Putting wads for tapered hulls in straight walled hulls results in poor seals and uneven pressures and velocities. Putting straight walled wads in tapered hulls results in a bulge in the hull and higher pressures.
Stick to one type and the wads for it or the other.

Steel based hulls sometimes stick in chambers, sometimes polishing the chamber eliminates this. Because of this I stick to brass based hulls, which are all of the ones I mentioned by name above, except Gun Clubs. They stick the least of all the steel based hulls, in my experience, and having observed many others experiences.

Reloading 12 gauge only makes sense if you are loading to match the top quality loads, promo loads cost less than basic reloads that match them. Or buck or slugs. Where you save the most is loading 28 ga. and .410.
 
Skeet and any clay target loads are pretty easy to load. Lots of recipes to follow.

Buckshot is a whole ‘nother kettle of fish. Unless you plan to shoot quite a few of them, just buy a case of Rio or Fiocchi or Estate - no need to get expensive. If you want to deer hunt, buy 5 at a time of better quality stuff.

The problem with buckshot is getting the right components to get a good crimp. If you crimp too much or get the shot stack wrong, you’ll bulge the shot against the case wall and be unable to chamber the round. I had plenty of failures finding my way.

I like to load buck, but it took awhile to get my feet under me. Most of the steps are done by hand such as stacking shot. I’ve got quite a few wads, shot and powder cards just for buck.And, it is hard to beat some of the ammo prices I mentioned.

Slug is another learning curve although maybe not quite as bad because most slug can use a roll crimp. That requires a roll crimp tool and a drill or drill press.

Before you jump in, do the research and just do one load to get the hang of it.

Spend some time with Bubba Roundtree. He’s gotta lot of content.


 
At one time in my life I shot trap pretty extensively, to the tune of 40000 reloads (sounds impressive, but isn't compared to the big dogs). It used to pay back then when buying components in bulk. Think about buying lead shot by the ton, powder by the pallet, etc. There is no way I would load ammo for hunting unless I needed something that just wasn't available. The volumes and prices don't work.

I started with a MEC 600jr. After a few thousand shells, I bought a P&W progressive. I sold that a few years ago, along with all the components I had left over. I still have a trap gun and a few thousand reloads. I haven't shot trap in quite some time. I still have the MEC
 
I learned to reload on a mec 400 at my father's side. We loaded federal super target paper on that 400. It was as quite a production to produce one shell!
Now I keep a mec 650 on the bench with a pillow case over it to keep the dust off. I has never loaded anything but trap loads. Some full 3dr loads....but mostly middle ground somewhere between 2¾Dr and 3dr. With that load I shot trap, skeet, sporting clays, rabbits, quail, doves,....change out the 7½ shot for #6 and it was pheasant and ducks, the #4 shot killed geese and groundhogs. The same hull, wad, and powder charge with a Lee key drive slug dropped in the wad makes a pretty decent deer slug....
When you ask me if you should own a reloader......my answer is YES.
 
Scrounge around and find a used Mec before buying a Lee.
I’ve got two Lee’s. A 12 and 20ga.
The 12 hasn’t been used in decades and is previously pretty much worn out. (By me… back when lead was allowed for waterfowl).
I’ve been gifted a Pacific progressive loader, and a Mec 650jr. Bought another Mec jr for $20 at a pawnshop.(all 12ga).
I only load slugs and buckshot. I still have ~150lbs of assorted birdshot that I use to load .410’s. (Buck and 3/4oz loads in 3”hulls, too).

I was going to convert the Jr’s to 28ga and .410, but cost of conversion kits went out of sight!
(I cast my own buckshot and slugs).
 
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I do not shoot shotguns very much

Thats going to make it difficult to make it worth while unless you just like puzzles, even more difficult when you tell us you shoot 12 or 20 ga.

We can get away with mixed brass in metallic reloading and have satisfactory results. For shotshells, the hull, wad, powder bushing, shot bushing and shot size all have to be compatible to hope for decent results.

I can give you a recent example, have a kid I am teaching to shoot clays, probably a bit too young but if they are driven, I try and help them. Turns out all she can swing right is a .410 and they are around $20/box, so I got out my 366 press that was setup for the old Winchester AA-CF hulls and the Winchester AA-HS hulls I intended to reload were incompatible with the settings. It’s just a different ball game. That said, the odd balls like .410, 28ga,16ga make it much easier for the math to swing in your favor but if you don’t shoot much…
 
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