I just recently aqcuired a Sig sauer 1911 scorpion and I absolutely love it. I haven't gotten a chance to go out to the range yet though. I did notice that the trigger has a lot of take-up and my local gun shop said that puttin a few hundred rounds through it will change the way the trigger behaves. Now this is my first 1911, and I've heard a lot of 1911's take about 200 rounds to break in, but i've never heard of a trigger needing about 500 rounds to "settle in". Any advice on this folks?
Sig 1911 trigger
- Thread starter CSC_Saint
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scythefwd
Member
Triggers can smooth out a bit after firing rounds... 500 rounds, hell 1 million rounds wont do anything for trigger takeup though.
1911's are like lego guns.. aftermarket trigger kits are cheap, and plentiful. Cylinder and Slide or wilsons is a good starting point in your search.
1911's are like lego guns.. aftermarket trigger kits are cheap, and plentiful. Cylinder and Slide or wilsons is a good starting point in your search.
scythefwd
Member
Its standard.. for several 1911 manufacturers. The 500 break in can smooth out some burrs and manufacturing defects on the sere, the slide, and the rails.. and it can actually make a difference in reliability. Unfortunately the trigger isn't worn by those actions, so it doesn't change in it's length of pull, just how gritty it can feel or how smooth it is...
Someone may pop in with more info, and more accurate info.. I sold my only 1911 after only owning it for a few months as I don't care for the platform.. I'm a BHP guy (similar, but without the grip safety, etc... ). I'll readily admit the 1911 has superior points in it's design, way better after market support, but it's not for me.
Someone may pop in with more info, and more accurate info.. I sold my only 1911 after only owning it for a few months as I don't care for the platform.. I'm a BHP guy (similar, but without the grip safety, etc... ). I'll readily admit the 1911 has superior points in it's design, way better after market support, but it's not for me.
JTQ
Member
I'll agree shooting more rounds with not change trigger take-up.
The following is not meant to be combative, I'm just wondering that your expectations for this particular pistol may be unrealistic.
In light of your comments here...
This is your first 1911 and you haven't shot it yet. Is it possible this 1911 is the same as every other 1911, and not a problem with this particular pistol? For pistols in general, I can't think of another pistol that requires less trigger movement than a 1911.
The following is not meant to be combative, I'm just wondering that your expectations for this particular pistol may be unrealistic.
In light of your comments here...
My question would be, "the trigger has a lot of take-up, compared to what?"
This is your first 1911 and you haven't shot it yet. Is it possible this 1911 is the same as every other 1911, and not a problem with this particular pistol? For pistols in general, I can't think of another pistol that requires less trigger movement than a 1911.
The Lone Haranguer
Member
I think a small amount of takeup (~1/16") is necessary to actuate the firing pin block.
not to say that a 1/4 inch of take up is so horrible I'm gonna get rid of the gun. i just thought it was odd that a gun shop would tell me 500 rounds would eliminate take up. And the only comparison I have is with a Colt series 70 which has no take up, and my polymer pistols(glock, XD) which have very little take up. For the price I paid, I really have no complaint, and if the trigger bothers me in the future, it's good to know that there is a host of aftermarket stuff I can try out.
LiveLife
Member
bds- the manual lists this as an over-travel adjustment screw, which my understanding of it is that it only eliminates movement after the trigger has released the hammer, not meant to eliminate take-up.
This pistol will probably shoot better than I have the skill to do, and I'm not truely complaining about take-up. I just thought it odd that the folks down at the gunshop told me that shooting the pistol would eliminate take-up.
This pistol will probably shoot better than I have the skill to do, and I'm not truely complaining about take-up. I just thought it odd that the folks down at the gunshop told me that shooting the pistol would eliminate take-up.
wally
Member
Shiver'me timbers, folks at a gun shop giving incorrect information!
rcmodel
Member in memoriam
The screw in the trigger has nothing to do with take-up.
It only bears against the mag release and controls over-travel after sear release.
I would not mess with it, as it can cause sear & hammer hook damage if you set it too close to zero over-travel.
As for your perceived take-up "problem"?
Sounds normal in a 1911.
You don't release the trigger all the way and start all over again during normal operation.
You only need to release it far enough to reset and then start the next squeeze.
Actual movement to reset is only 1/16" or so.
One of the shortest re-sets of any gun made.
rc
It only bears against the mag release and controls over-travel after sear release.
I would not mess with it, as it can cause sear & hammer hook damage if you set it too close to zero over-travel.
As for your perceived take-up "problem"?
Sounds normal in a 1911.
You don't release the trigger all the way and start all over again during normal operation.
You only need to release it far enough to reset and then start the next squeeze.
Actual movement to reset is only 1/16" or so.
One of the shortest re-sets of any gun made.
rc
LiveLife
Member
Saint, my railed Sig 1911 TacPac came with less than 1/8" take up from the factory. For me 1/4" take up on the trigger would be too much and I would make it shorter.
Here's a video by STI on adjusting trigger take-up and over-travel on 1911 adjustable trigger for you to compare. The video goes into details on take-up and over-travel starting at 1:10 mark on the video (what's adjustable with the screw). The 3:00 mark shows reduced take-up of the adjustable trigger compared to before.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=KVhQ2o2wqnw
As rcmodel posted and the STI video indicated, you can improperly adjust the trigger. If you have any issues adjusting the trigger, I would give Sig customer service a call.
Here's a video by STI on adjusting trigger take-up and over-travel on 1911 adjustable trigger for you to compare. The video goes into details on take-up and over-travel starting at 1:10 mark on the video (what's adjustable with the screw). The 3:00 mark shows reduced take-up of the adjustable trigger compared to before.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=KVhQ2o2wqnw
As rcmodel posted and the STI video indicated, you can improperly adjust the trigger. If you have any issues adjusting the trigger, I would give Sig customer service a call.
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TimboKhan
Member
I have a Sig Scorpion as well, and I find it to be fine. There is some takeup, but not enough for me to care about.
Skylerbone
Member
Pretravel is absolutely necessary in a 1911 to prevent trigger bounce and hammer follow. The over-travel screw is often misunderstood but can be very important. DO NOT REMOVE IT! Adjusting it properly will keep the pistol running and it should be LocTite'ed in place once set.
The 1911 is NOT a Legos pistol. It is a firearm, it is dangerous and fire control parts should not be swapped out or "polished" without training and specific tools. Sig's 1911s do not include take-up tabs for pretravel adjustment like an STI and don't ever trust a stranger on YouthTube to guide you through gunsmithing, think of the scary things you've seen there.
If you find the trigger lacking at some point you should contact a professional for work.
The 1911 is NOT a Legos pistol. It is a firearm, it is dangerous and fire control parts should not be swapped out or "polished" without training and specific tools. Sig's 1911s do not include take-up tabs for pretravel adjustment like an STI and don't ever trust a stranger on YouthTube to guide you through gunsmithing, think of the scary things you've seen there.
If you find the trigger lacking at some point you should contact a professional for work.
JTQ
Member
Good advice. It seems there are lots of Glock and AR guys getting into the 1911 recently (100th Anniversary, maybe) with the idea of just swapping out 1911 parts like they do with their Glocks and AR's. The parts are available, but they usually just don't snap in. That's one of the reasons their are so many 1911 gunsmiths (and most are backlogged for a very long time) and so few Glock gunsmiths.
scythefwd
Member
I didn't mean you can just swap out parts. I meant that there are so many different combinations and aftermarket parts available.. that you can make this gun into just about anything you want. There is NO other handgun that is as easily upgraded and messed with from an end user standpoint than the 1911. There is plenty of stuff that does just drop in, but with any and all guns.. some smithing may be required.
Nor did you ever see me recommend doing it yourself.
Nor did you ever see me recommend doing it yourself.
Skylerbone
Member
It's not a battle of posts, merely a clarification. Dropping in a hammer, for example, can increase trigger pull weight, decrease said same, increase or decrease pretravel, disengage the thumb safety. Dropping in a magazine catch can trap the magazine, increase or decrease magazine height in the well (creating or solving feed problems and/or damaging the ejector) and increase or decrease over-travel...get the idea? Correct springs will drop in but not much else, regardless of what some report.
To paraphrase a signature line I'm fond of: know the consequences of your actions before changing any part of your pistol.
What the guys at the local Gunshop may have been referring to is creep or perceptible creep, the rubbing of the sear nose as it disengages. Taking time to slowly actuate the trigger with the pistol unloaded will give you a feel for several "stages" from pretravel to sear disengagement to over-travel. The Sigs I've tried had quite decent trigger feel without modification which allows the shooter to concentrate on the all important front sight.
To paraphrase a signature line I'm fond of: know the consequences of your actions before changing any part of your pistol.
What the guys at the local Gunshop may have been referring to is creep or perceptible creep, the rubbing of the sear nose as it disengages. Taking time to slowly actuate the trigger with the pistol unloaded will give you a feel for several "stages" from pretravel to sear disengagement to over-travel. The Sigs I've tried had quite decent trigger feel without modification which allows the shooter to concentrate on the all important front sight.
oasis618
Member
This is why I haven't picked up a Sig 1911. They triggers on every one I've ever fondled just felt numb to me. Too much take up and not much warning before it actually breaks.
LiveLife
Member
FWIW, this 1911 trigger job video may shed some light on 1911 trigger adjustment/modification (detailed trigger job by Impact Guns gunsmith).
Part 1 - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eCF2u3K743A
Part 2 - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G-uHeePP1CY&feature=fvwrel
Part 1 - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eCF2u3K743A
Part 2 - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G-uHeePP1CY&feature=fvwrel
railroader
Member
I'm a little confused because if your xd is stock it has way more takeup than a 1911 trigger. That's why I put a powder river kit in my xd to shorten the takeup and reset. I just bought a sig xo 1911 yesterday and the trigger was kind of heavy but the takeup wasn't real long.
Skylerbone
Member
Those videos are an excellent example bds. They demonstrate that a person familiar with firearms (nutnfancy) managed to botch a 1911 trigger job on his Taurus (hammer follow) and then sought professional help. The end result cost him the price of labor plus new parts.
Magnumite
Member
I am reading 1/4" of take up. Was this measured? That is alot in a 1911.
I just purchased a SIG Nitron Rail. The take up was not abnormal. The trigger on your pistol, if like mine. has tabs on the front of the bow. These can be bent forward to reduce the amount of take up, but you'll have have at least .040" to be safe, I prefer more. That is 33% less than 1/16". So one needs to careful and have any changes made checked by someone genuinely familiar and skilled with this platform.
Posts above by some knowledgeable 1911 folks.
I just purchased a SIG Nitron Rail. The take up was not abnormal. The trigger on your pistol, if like mine. has tabs on the front of the bow. These can be bent forward to reduce the amount of take up, but you'll have have at least .040" to be safe, I prefer more. That is 33% less than 1/16". So one needs to careful and have any changes made checked by someone genuinely familiar and skilled with this platform.
Posts above by some knowledgeable 1911 folks.
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