Digex2:
Well first of all, I don’t think you made a mistake getting a SIG. I believe the problems you have will work themselves out shortly.
You have too pity the poor pistolsmith or small manufacturer. People these days expect a pistols to be totally reliable with any ammunition, shoot under 3 inches at 50 yards, have all the latest gewgaws and gadgets - and retail for $500.00 or less. (I kid you of course).
Look at your SIG. I suspect you see a plain black pistol that has everything it needs, and nothing it doesn’t. What you have is a pure-blooded combat pistol. Fortunately you won’t find many aftermarket accessories to put on it, other then wood grips and optional sights. And you may be saying to yourself, “well yes, I can’t think of anything I need or even want to put on it.â€
Now apply the same thinking to a Government Model, either made by Colt or by someone else.
There are some things you really need, some things you really don’t, and a much greater number of things you can have if you like them, but they aren’t necessary and add to the cost. If money is no object just go ahead, but with me money has ALWAYS been an object.
What do you really need? Well first of all, good sights. Adjustable sights are not necessary, but fixed sights should be zeroed to point of aim-point of impact, FOR YOU! The front sight should be at least 1/8†wide, and the rear sight notch should be the same or slightly wider. Both should have a low profile above the slide. It is advisable to have the front of the slide dovetailed for a front sight because while the system is solid it allows the sight to be easily changed.
The trigger pull should be adjusted to between 4 and 5 pounds, and break crisply. A heavier pull is acceptable, a lighter one is not.
I strongly advocate internal lockwork that is made from forgings (very rare these days) or machined from bar stock. MIM (Metal Injected Molded) parts may be O.K. but at this point they are unproven and controversial. I will let someone else do the experimenting.
I prefer standard Colt barrels over the so-called match kind. They fit a little loosely, but that means they are a wee bit self-centering as the cartridge feeds, and the chambers are slightly larger. I personally own guns with stock (unthroated) barrels that will hand-feed empty cases. I don’t shoot much with empties, but it’s reassuring to know that most anything else will feed too.
I slightly bevel the magazine well at the base of the handle, but I don’t add any of the flared add-on’s. If one gets a little bent they can jam a magazine in the gun. A thin bumper on the base of the magazine is also a good idea to insure that when you slap it that mag. will be fully seated.
I think if I was in your shoes I’d look around for a good buy on a current or original Colt series 70 (I don’t trust the Series 80’s firing pin lock to always unlock) and shoot it for a bit until I trusted it. While I was doing this I would think about what modifications I wanted, if any - and then I’d send it off to get the work done, and there are plenty of people that can do a good job of it. As for Les Baer, I did an article on some of his guns once, and they were a fine product. Expensive, but very good. I wouldn’t write him off a short list.
Well first of all, I don’t think you made a mistake getting a SIG. I believe the problems you have will work themselves out shortly.
You have too pity the poor pistolsmith or small manufacturer. People these days expect a pistols to be totally reliable with any ammunition, shoot under 3 inches at 50 yards, have all the latest gewgaws and gadgets - and retail for $500.00 or less. (I kid you of course).
Look at your SIG. I suspect you see a plain black pistol that has everything it needs, and nothing it doesn’t. What you have is a pure-blooded combat pistol. Fortunately you won’t find many aftermarket accessories to put on it, other then wood grips and optional sights. And you may be saying to yourself, “well yes, I can’t think of anything I need or even want to put on it.â€
Now apply the same thinking to a Government Model, either made by Colt or by someone else.
There are some things you really need, some things you really don’t, and a much greater number of things you can have if you like them, but they aren’t necessary and add to the cost. If money is no object just go ahead, but with me money has ALWAYS been an object.
What do you really need? Well first of all, good sights. Adjustable sights are not necessary, but fixed sights should be zeroed to point of aim-point of impact, FOR YOU! The front sight should be at least 1/8†wide, and the rear sight notch should be the same or slightly wider. Both should have a low profile above the slide. It is advisable to have the front of the slide dovetailed for a front sight because while the system is solid it allows the sight to be easily changed.
The trigger pull should be adjusted to between 4 and 5 pounds, and break crisply. A heavier pull is acceptable, a lighter one is not.
I strongly advocate internal lockwork that is made from forgings (very rare these days) or machined from bar stock. MIM (Metal Injected Molded) parts may be O.K. but at this point they are unproven and controversial. I will let someone else do the experimenting.
I prefer standard Colt barrels over the so-called match kind. They fit a little loosely, but that means they are a wee bit self-centering as the cartridge feeds, and the chambers are slightly larger. I personally own guns with stock (unthroated) barrels that will hand-feed empty cases. I don’t shoot much with empties, but it’s reassuring to know that most anything else will feed too.
I slightly bevel the magazine well at the base of the handle, but I don’t add any of the flared add-on’s. If one gets a little bent they can jam a magazine in the gun. A thin bumper on the base of the magazine is also a good idea to insure that when you slap it that mag. will be fully seated.
I think if I was in your shoes I’d look around for a good buy on a current or original Colt series 70 (I don’t trust the Series 80’s firing pin lock to always unlock) and shoot it for a bit until I trusted it. While I was doing this I would think about what modifications I wanted, if any - and then I’d send it off to get the work done, and there are plenty of people that can do a good job of it. As for Les Baer, I did an article on some of his guns once, and they were a fine product. Expensive, but very good. I wouldn’t write him off a short list.