Simple Cleaning Question

[Datarock]

Hey everyone!!!
I have a fairly simple cleaning question. If you use a product like Break free CLP or other similar product that has lubrication in the solvent, do you only put one layer on and then wipe it down and your down?
I have read on other forums that some people use Break free, then put oil on important parts, while others just use the break free and then dry it then they are done. What do you all think? The man at the gun shop said to only use the CLP, dry it, and then your done. I guess if that is the case I do not understand how it can be oiled if I dried it all up.
Thanks!!!

 

[inSight-NEO]

To be honest, I generally keep my solvent application separate from the lubrication phase. But, this may be a redundancy as I use Weapon Shield which, by all means, can be used for both cleaning and lubrication.

Now, for general cleaning/lubrication, I may use only Weapon Shield. But, for the heavy duty sessions (300 to 500 rounds or more), I use a dedicated solvent first and then follow up with my lube of choice (in this case, again, Weapon Shield). This, however, is only personal preference.

Regarding Break Free, from what I gather, you should be fine using this for both cleaning and lubrication. Main thing is to make sure the gun is not dripping with the stuff after all is said and done. Leave just enough of the stuff (enough to leave a slight fingerprint...maybe a bit more for the slide rails, if applying to a semi-auto) on the weapon to provide protection. You do not want things dripping or running.
For instance, looking at my semi-auto, you could not tell it is lubed...until you touch it. Then, you will see the obvious fingerprints. If the weapon were completely dry, I imagine you could not see such a thing. The slide rails I tend to leave a bit wet...but not dripping.

If you are concerned, maybe every 500 rounds or so, simply clean things using a dedicated solvent. Then, follow up with Break Free for the final clean-up and lubrication. This should do, I imagine.

 

[Mot45acp]

Read the can of CLP. It doesnt dry out....it cures. CLP contains PTFE (teflon)

After scrubbing with brass or nylon brush, I wipe down untill patch/paper towel/Q-tip comes back clean. Then I spray down and let sit 24-48 hours. Sometimes I do it twice if its a new gun. Trying to impregnate all the pores of the metal.

Finaly I put a drop or two of Mobil 1 on rails/important parts. I prolly dont need to but it doesnt hurt anything. If its dry and dusty out I ust leave it be.

 

[chevyforlife21]

i use hoppes 9 for bore solvent and clp for lube and protecting or for just wipeing an action out quickly. ( brake cleaner for occasional action cleanings)

 

[Manco]

Most of the time I simply use Weapon Shield CLP to both clean and protect, and while it's also a good lube oil that stays put for a long time, I use Weapon Shield Grease for lubing the slide rails and parts of the barrel, as well as to protect any external parts from corrosion (wipe on, wipe off). For really tough cleaning jobs or occasional deep cleaning, I use Bore Tech Eliminator first, then Weapon Shield to make sure that the bore and other parts are protected.

 

[Sport45]

Welcome to The High Road!

I tried cleaning with CLP once and thought it was a terrible mess. Someone likened it to trying to clean with vegetable oil.

Typically, I'll clean guns with Ed's Red and lubricate with CLP and/or grease. Good oils are just too expensive to use for cleaners, IMHO.

 

[The Bushmaster]

Actions cleaned once a year during complete internal inspections with a good parts cleaning solvent. Other then that Hoppe's #9 Benchrest Copper solvent for the bore and ATF for general lubricant. I use artilary "red grease" for the rails...

 

[Ala Dan]

Well, I use a combination of things, depending on the individual weapon
at hand. For revolver applications, I clean the cylinder and bore with
Hoppe #9 solvent; unless of course, I have shot cast lead bullets-
then I use a piece of "Lead Away" cloth in the bore of stainless guns.
I word of caution here: DO NOT USE "LEAD AWAY" ON BLUED GUNS~!
After which, I use "Break Free" CLP, or "Eezox - which ever I have on
hand; for the lubrication process. If using "Eezox" it will dry to a "silky
type feel"; no need to worry, as this is normal. I find that it works
equally as well in protecting a firearms finish~!

Semi-auto pistols: much the same way, except I use Tetra Gun Grease"
on the rails; with "Break Free CLP" underneath the dust cover. Its a
lot like the old "Bryl Cream" commerical use too say, "A Little Dab
Will Do You"~! This cuts down on friction wear, as the weapon
recoils.

AR's: After field stripping, I clean the bore with Hoppes #9 Benchrest
Copper solvent, until all copper fouling is removed. I then follow it up
with regular Hoppes #9; followed by a thin coat of Break Free CLP.
Some say, that you can clean the bolt carrier assembly in mineral
spirits; but I have never done that~? Just get a 5-gallon bucket,
and some mineral spirits; then let it soak, they say.

Bolt action rifles and Shotguns: Much the same way, as for the AR's.

 

[LaserSpot]

Normally a thin wipe is all you need; I have found that really dirty guns can use a little "extra" CLP. Examples are semi-auto .22 bolts and gas cylinders of shotguns and rifles. In these cases, a few extra drops of CLP will keep the firing residue from hardening.

If using "Eezox" it will dry to a "silky type feel"; no need to worry, as this is normal. I find that it works equally as well in protecting a firearms finish~!

Yes, Eezox is a good product to wipe down with. Eezox and CLP are both provide excellent rust protection.

Also, use a little moly or synthetic grease for sears, locking lugs, camming surfaces, and other high pressure spots.