Simple Powder storage box.

[GW Staar]

Shrinkmd asked me in a P.M. if I had any plans for a powder box. I only had an autocad file convertible to a pdf. Since THR has an "attachment" feature I attached it to this post. Anyone is welcome to use, critique, improve, or do whatever you want with it.

Obviously you can add more verticals to each side and make it as large as you want....or increase the length of the verticals to increase height.

Parts list isn't needed if you can count. 2 of each collar piece or 4, 2 of each plywood piece or 4, and 26 2x4 verticals (or however many you add).

Next day Afterthought. There are those who think the government requirement of an 1" thick was "nominal" or really 3/4". I've seen both arguments. So for those leaning toward "nominal," feel free to replace the 2x4's with 1x4's and 3/4" plywood to 1/2" or anything combination of that!!! You probably should increase inner plywood sizes an 1 1/2" each way to lessen the indent. Personally, I think the standard was made when a board was really 1" not 3/4".

http://images.thehighroad.org/attach/pdf.gif

 

[enine]

Looks similar to mine


I measured and put dividers in.

 

[berettaprofessor]

Uh, I've got about 5 cans ("1" lb) just sitting on a metal shelf in a cool dry spot. Do I need one of these?

 

[txwingnut]

very nice!

 

[enine]

I just wanted something to keep mine in so I looked up safe storage (SAMMI) and built a box to put it in.
Plus if I get one more black lid we can play tic tac toe.

 

[ArchAngelCD]

I just wanted something to keep mine in so I looked up safe storage (SAMMI) and built a box to put it in.
Plus if I get one more black lid we can play tic tac toe.

Pictures of the box you built?

 

[Shrinkmd]

Thanks GW Staar!

It looks like the internal dimensions are 21" x 21.5" x 14.25" if I am reading the plan correctly, which would be perfect to hold 6 kegs of powder (well, the Alliant 8lb like Bullseye or 2400) I will remeasure them to be sure, but it looks right.

As far as construction, would you just use a nail gun, or would would screws be better for strength (or does it not matter)? Also, if I were going to get fancy and plan on staining/finishing it, would it make more sense to sand all pieces first, or worry about sanding/stain/finishing after it is constructed? Maybe I would just do the outside?

Thanks!

 

[oldpapps]

You fancy fellers.
I got a plastic tub with a snap on top.
If water got to 18 or so inches it could flow in or the tub would float. Water/rain/anything only bounces off the top. There is no restriction factor to the thin plastic, so an explosion is out of the mix. Fire would be slowed but not much. Best two points, cheap and easy. So cheap and easy, I have three of them stacked up. Too bad they are not all full of powder

 

[GW Staar]

Okay I was wrong.....here's a parts list!

Parts list:

½ sheet of ¾” Plywood for tops and bottoms:
2 pcs 24”x 24 ½” (outer piece)
2 pcs 21”x 21 ½” (inner piece)
think ahead before you cut, so you don't have to use the other half!

2x4’sides (soldier style):
26 pcs (soldiers) 15” high.
That’s 32 1/2’ …. 3 12’ 2x4’s is more than enough.

¾” x1 ½” collar (to tie the tops of the soldiers together):
Need 2 pcs 24” long, nailed to the 24” sides.
Perpendicular sides need the 26” pcs to overlap and butt to
the other two.

So a 1x2 (nominal at Home Depot) 10 feet long will make it.

I think the point is to make the box NOT glued, screwed and nailed so as to prevent burning gases to build up pressure. Top and bottom Plywood I did glue and screw together, but the top is loose….screw a handle to it and lift.

Side soldiers were nailed only to the base plywood as shown with a single 16 penny nail into each one….don’t care if gun or hand nailed. No glue side to side. Not trying to make it leak proof….just the opposite. So each soldier loose side to side. Tops are only collared….think beer barrels except the collar isn’t steel straps….just a piece of wood with a single 8 penny nail in each soldier. That’s it.

For me I don’t care about compartmentizing…..nor is it made to move around a lot. I think it more than complies with Saami’s and the governments requirements for safe storage and that’s all I’m interested in. A little stain on the outside of the box would make it stand out less.....not making furniture.

One more observation (right or wrong). I think it will come apart before it creates sharp splintered wood missiles of the type found in Hurricanes and artillery bombardments. Actually I would expect it to just burn slowly ....... as it should ....plenty of air for that will leak through the soldiered sides.

 

[moonman16]

If the PROPELLANT ignites the GASES NEED TO ESCAPE.
I believe the specs call for a WOODEN BOX with at least 1" thick walls.
Your top being able to blow off for gas escape is good.

If you GLUED and SCREWED everything SOLID, it would be
more of a BOMB than a PROPELLANT STORAGE/FIRE PROTECTION UNIT.

Boxes of such construction can contain up 50 pounds
of propellant in a RESIDENCE, The Fire Rules do say I believe.

 

[GW Staar]

If the PROPELLANT ignites the GASES NEED TO ESCAPE.
I believe the specs call for a WOODEN BOX with at least 1" thick walls.
Your top being able to blow off for gas escape is good.

If you GLUED and SCREWED everything SOLID, it would be
more of a BOMB than a PROPELLANT STORAGE/FIRE PROTECTION UNIT.

Boxes of such construction can contain up 50 pounds
of propellant in a RESIDENCE, The Fire Rules do say I believe.

Exactly how I look at it....well put. As well, the sides are "vented" at each soldier.

 

[ArchAngelCD]

 

[enine]

Pictures of the box you built?

Are you asking for pictures? I posted a pic already.

 

[Shrinkmd]

Ok, thanks! Any advice in how to build it? What order makes sense? Also, thank you for clarifying not to glue/screw it together. Totally makes sense, shouldn't be airtight or too strong!

And now I have a new compressor and finish nailer, so I'm learning more and using new tools. Thanks agan!

 

[enine]

I did mine with finger joints, rigged up a simple router jig with a 1/4" router bit, router and 1/4" square stock to space it. I make the first cut then move that cut over to the bar stock so the next cut is spaced evenly. The finger joints are tight enough I have to bump them together lightly with my hands or a rubber hammer, no glue or nails are needed. If it were to build up pressure it would just pop open.
I did the dividers so the cans wouldn't slide around when take it off the shelf.

 

[GW Staar]

Sorry it offended you, but you do have the choice to ignore and not post in such a worthless thread. The "plans" .pdf in my first post IS the picture and the only one I intend to post.

Congratulations on finding a new and effective annoyance banner....great way to make friends and influence people.

 

[Shrinkmd]

Ah, ignore him.

I completed it last night, and it looks great. Heavy, 1"+ walls, yet plenty of leakage for air to prevent pressure build up. Thanks for all your help! I bet you could write a book of projects with 2x4 for beginning woodworkers who need to get it done, fast, cheap, and right.

 

[ArchAngelCD]

Are you asking for pictures? I posted a pic already.

Nice box but no, I was asking the OP to see the finished product...

 

[ArchAngelCD]

Sorry it offended you, but you do have the choice to ignore and not post in such a worthless thread. The "plans" .pdf in my first post IS the picture and the only one I intend to post.

Congratulations on finding a new and effective annoyance banner....great way to make friends and influence people.

Are you serious? That gif has all smile faces on it, it's not an insult, it's a joking way of asking to see a picture... If anyone here is being insulting it's not me.

I thought your idea was very good and only wanted to see the finished produce. wow

 

[Captaingyro]

GW Staar: Great design, thanks for sharing. Also, the .pdf of your plans is very well done. Could you please tell us what software you used to produce it?

 

[GW Staar]

Thanks, and you're are welcome. Drawn on Autocad....saved as a .PDF file.

 

[carbine85]

Storing powder in a closed container with a lid isn't recommended. You are creating a potential explosion hazard.

 

[medalguy]

Really? A wooden box with a hinged lid is hardly a container with an explosion hazard. Read the SAAMI regulations.

I build two boxes for my powder out of 3/4 inch birch plywood. That's what in the trade is called nominal 1 inch wood. The box is 48 inches wide x 24 inches deep and 24 inches high with a simple piano hinge for the lid. I used finishing nails to hold the whole thing together, so in case of a fire the whole box will pretty much fall apart. I spaced the two boxes about 10 feet apart as SAAMI suggested.

 

[GW Staar]

Storing powder in a closed container with a lid isn't recommended. You are creating a potential explosion hazard.

Isn't recommended by whom? The point of insulated 1" wood boxes and cabinets to to shield stored powder from heat sources. No top on a box isn't any more protective than no box, unless one can guarantee heat sources will never be possible from the top.

The box above is not air tight, the lid is loose, dropped on, with no hinges or latches...the sides are not solid....air leaks between each vertical member. Nails are minimum to make the box not fall apart unless pressure inside causes it to ... readily.

I based the design to comply with the NFPA495-85 Standard for the Manufacture, Transportation, Storage and Use of Explosive Materials, (c) 1985, National Fire Protection Association, Quincy, MA 02269. The same standard Saami used in their recommendations.

I'm not infallible.....if you have better info, I'm all ears.

 

[carbine85]

I assumed you would be putting a top on the box. I have read the SAAMI specs a few times. Sometime back Dupont's recommendation was to store it opening on a cool location and not confined.

Smokeless Powder & Primer Storage By Marshall Stanton on 2005-08-27
ref: http://www.beartoothbullets.com/tech_notes/archive_tech_notes.htm/60

Recommendations for Storage

DO NOT SUBJECT THE STORAGE CABINETS TO CLOSE CONFINEMENT. STORAGE CABINETS SHOULD BE CONSTRUCTED OF INSULATING MATERIALS AND WITH A WEAK WALL SEAMS OR JOINTS TO PROVIDE AN EASY MEANS OF SELF-VENTING

Do not store all your powders in one place. If you can, maintain separate storage locations. Many small containers are safer than one or more large containers.