Single Action vs Double Action

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SteelEye

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I'm thinking about getting either a SBH Hunter or Redhawk in 44 mag. I've shot the Redhawk and like it a lot but never fired a single action. Initially, the gun will be used for paper punching and long range target shooting (200 yards).

What are the pros and cons of single action over double action?

Thanks,
SteelEye
 
Because of the grip design, the SAs can soak up more recoil for a given gun weight. It's not uncommon for people to favorably compare the recoil handling of a 35oz SA to a 45 or even 50oz DA. It's the way the grip rolls in the hand.

SAs have a cylinder that's locked into the frame tighter than with a DA's crane system. The DA is doing a "re-alignment" of the cylinder/action/barrel each time you close it. SAs therefore often have more inherent accuracy than DAs for the same price/caliber, while keeping the frame bulk lower (no crane joint at the lower front of the frame). And the SA mechanism is *definately* tougher and easier to home-gunsmith or keep running in the field in a pinch...as a long-term wilderness survival gun, Ruger SAs have NO equal, period, end of discussion, at least in handguns. Only a double rifle with true double triggers and double ignition systems is tougher.

DAs reload faster, and can get a string of shots off faster. SAs however can have a speed advantage on the first shot, assuming you're willing to spend the time to master the type.

That's about it.

Speaking of which: the Ruger Hunter is an excellent critter for your needs. But you might want to consider the new "Bisley variant" Hunter, as the Ruger "Bisley" type grip/hammer/trigger set has a rep for really superb recoil control (so long as it fits your hands). Try one out before you buy, if just static handling at a gun shop if you can't shoot one. (When John Linebaugh converts a Ruger to the psycho 475 and 500 calibers, he uses nothing but Bisley grips for their recoil handling properties.)
 
If long range shooting is the goal, trigger pull will be very important. The Ruger single action trigger can be made extremely nice with a simple and free "deperching" of one leg of the trigger return spring. Does not seem to affect reliability like hammer spring lightening can. Cheaper and lighter than the equiv. gun in double action. All that said, I enjoy my Ruger SuperRedhawk as much or more than my 5.5" SuperBlackhawk. Note that I don't have to carry that monster very far!
 
Get the Redhawk...

In the 5.5" barrel length it can do double-duty as a defense gun. The Redhawk's SA trigger will clean up just as well as the Blackhawk. It'll reload faster and easier, and the Redhawk is stronger than company's own single actions. I've seen their SA's break and have numerous problems, so don't think it can't happen. My old blue .44 Redhawk has digested a 5 gallon bucket of 300-grain loads that'd make the average SA spit it's cylinder pin and ejector housing screw.

It shoots them accurately, and there are always Butler Creek rubber grips if your loads generate lots of recoil. I found long ago that for me, the standard Redhawk wood panels works about as well as anything, and still allow me to deliver accurate DA fire with the big gun. If you're shooting the heavies, just hang on a little tighter and concentrate on the front sight.
 
Speaking of triggers...

The Redhawk that I shot was a rental and well worn in. The trigger was like butter, in the good sense. Easy, smooth, clean. I've read about the "po boy trigger job" for SAs. Is there a similar operation available to the Redhawk?
 
The best Redhawk triggers...

come from polishing the surface of the single-action sear(both hammer and trigger, and adjusting the depth of the SA notch on the hammer itself. It is a delicate balancing act which must be accomplished w/o substantially altering the angle of the engagement surfaces. Screw it up and you get a revolver that will "push off" from full-cock with less than ten pounds of thumb pressure. A new hammer will usually correct this, but a good Redhawk SA trigger job is best left to an accomplished smith. The results are usually worth the money.

You can have him/her install a trigger stop at the same time if you are so inclined. This is one thing that the Ruger SA'a and DA's both need for best accuracy. Just make sure that you emphasize that you do NOT want the damn thing working loose and tying up the gun. I installed mine by drilling through the lock port in the rear of the trigger guard assembly, tapping it for 8-32 set screws, and then using opposing set screws to limit overtravel. The whole works was baptized in Loctite Red before the final adjustment, and after a suitable number of 300 grainers at 1325 fps it remains unmoved. It is much easier to shoot well with the SA overtravel gone, and the DA pull is still sweet as ever. I'll call that a success story.

I'm not one for monkeying with factory springs, or replacing them with aftermarket jobs that are ridiculously lighter. This is another balancing act that can and often does result in light primer strikes, and misfires. The gun needs to work, first time, every time, always- or you're worse off than if you didn't have one at all. At least without a gun you'll likely stay out of situations where you might need one.

PS- The "Poor boy" trigger job for the Ruger SA's simply reduces the amount of trigger return tension by about half. It does nothing to correct sear engagement surface roughness, contact surface depth, or trigger overtravel. If your revolver has a heavy, gritty, stagey trigger before this alteration it will simply have a lighter, gritty, stagey trigger afterwards. Still, many are satisfied with the results. This just tells me that the Ruger factory SA trigger is about twice as heavy as it needs to be to start with.

Is it safe? Depends on your ability to leave the trigger untouched until the moment of firing, just like any other gun. It will simply fire with less pressure afterward, so a 'mistake' will maybe be a bigger one. This is why Ruger puts the garage-door springs in their triggers in the first place.
 
Which sixgun you like best will depend on how you handle recoil. The double action tends to push straight into the web of your hand. The single action tends to roll in your hand.

The single action sounds better but it depends again on the shooter. As the gun rollls in your hand the trigger guard can shave your index finger. The left side of the frame can shave the inside of your thumb. Some find the trigger guard bangs the middle finger of the shooting hand.

With the double action, the grip can push into the web of the hand causing pain to some. A wider grip stock can help this. Also some find the cylinder latch will shave the thumb.

In short the only way to know which sixgun will work best for you is to shoot both.
 
Another consideration is grip frames. Some people don't care for the Redhawk's grip frame, but love the grip frame of the Super Redhawk. Then some don't care for the Bisley grip frame, but they prefer the Blackhawk's style. Try all 4 and see which you prefer as all are very different.
 
Grip Shape

If you've never fired a single action don't take anyone's word that they "soak up recoil better." Some of us HATE the way a hard-kicking SA feels when it goes off.

I MUCH prefer the feel of the S&W DA grip shape, and I like to shoot 510s at 1725 and 650s at 1300.

Shoot 50 rounds through each before you buy.

JR
 
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