Single Six question

[Revolver Ocelot]

A friend recently asked for some help identifying guns in his father in law's estate. While we were going through them we found a bag of parts which became quickly evident as being a completely disassembled ruger single six.

He didn't really want to deal with the gun giving its value in relation to the other firearms so he gave it to me.

No the trouble is, I suspect that the gun was a blued gun that was disassembled and stripped in preparation to be re blued, but I can't tell for 100% if it is stainless or blued.

I've already called ruger whom does not know, so I am looking for ideas on how to check if this gun is stainless, or if it should be blued.

 

[Wil Terry]

I THINK you've had miscommunication with STURM RUGER&COMPANY as they can indeed tell you whether it is.a carbon steel or stainless steel pistol.
It's serial number giving you the age can tell you what you want to know in about ten seconds usually.

 

[rcmodel]

looking for ideas on how to check if this gun is stainless

A drop of cold blue on a Q-Tip will tell you right quick.

Put some cold blue on it and if it is polished carbon steel, it will blue.

If it is stainless, it won't.

rc

 

[Revolver Ocelot]

I THINK you've had miscommunication with STURM RUGER&COMPANY as they can indeed tell you whether it is.

Incorrect, they informed me that the do to the age of the gun they could not, as their records did not go back that far evidently.

They did give me the contact information for a gentlemen who collects old ruger and is something of an expert on the older ones, however I have been unable to reach him thus far.

 

[BSA1]

You're making this way too hard. Follow RC's advice and try some cold blue on it. Either it will or it won't.

 

[Revolver Ocelot]

You're making this way too hard. Follow RC's advice and try some cold blue on it. Either it will or it won't.

That is my intention, I was simply replying to wil terry's reply, no sense in letting him go uniformed.


Also, I see that there are 8 shot cylinders available for these, this had me wonder if the 10 round cylinder for the single ten would fit the single six? after all, the diameter of the cylinder is only .013" larger on the single ten. me only concern is if it would time properly, which I assume so if a drop in 8 round would.

does anyone have both that could verify?

 

[rcmodel]

Neither an 8 or 10 shot cylinder will work in a 6 shot gun.

rc

 

[doubleh]

Yep. Even if the cylinder will physically fir in the frame it won't index correctly.

 

[CajunBass]

It seems to me that I remember that blue Single-Sixs have grip frames made from aluminum, and the stainless steel ones are made from stainless steel.

I would think they'd feel different in weight and feel.

 

[Revolver Ocelot]

Neither an 8 or 10 shot cylinder will work in a 6 shot gun.

Initially I thought that to be true as well, but I keep seeing the same item listed over and over as a drop in replacement for a six shot cylinder with no modification necessary and it seems to have good reviews.

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/73...x-22-winchester-magnum-rimfire-wmr-steel-blue

If what they are saying is wrong, than there is a big problem there.

 

[rcmodel]

I don't know.
Unless they have somehow redesigned the cylinder ratchet to work with the six shot lockwork?

Anyway, if the OP's single-six is so old Ruger doesn't know what it is?

It is undoubtedly an early three-screw.

And the lockwork in the New Models using the 10 shot cylinders is completely different.


He can go here to look up the manufacturing date.
All the way back to the first single-six made!
http://www.ruger.com/service/productHistory.html#

rc

 

[Revolver Ocelot]

Thank you RC, good information as usual. I am truly amazed that midway is still selling them in light of the problem with them (unless something has changed in the design as you sighted).

I found this thread pertaining to the cylinders in question, evidently they wouldn't reliably fire all of the rounds, likely for the reason you sighted.

being that am redoing most of the parts and pieces already it might be worth the trouble to get a pawl that indexes an 8 shot cylinder correctly, but I will have to revisit that another day.

It is undoubtedly an early three-screw.

It is not, it was the first year of the new model single six revolvers (1974 if my memory serves me correctly), they were able to tell me when it was made and that it was made as a convertible single six. But that was all they could tell me, they said there was nothing there on what finish it was supposed to be as they didn't track that info that far back.

I will just use the cold blue to see what I have and just go from there.

Thanks.

 

[murf]

1973 was the first year of the new model line of single action revolvers, fwiw.

even a new six-shot cylinder would have to be timed, or at least the timing checked. too many variables to just "drop in".

murf

 

[danjet500]

Try a magnet.

 

[rcmodel]

That doesn't work.

The stainless steel used in firearms has enough carbon in it to be magnetic just like carbon steel.

rc

 

[Jim Watson]

Cold blue, si.
Aluminum grip frame si.

How about some pictures so we don't have to play Twenty Questions.

 

[Revolver Ocelot]

I could go to the trouble of posting pics, but it looks like a stainless gun that has had sand paper taken to it, the pics wouldn't tell much. As for the magnet, both my stainless and non stainless guns stick to it.

 

[danjet500]

It is not the carbon in stainless that makes it magnetic, it is the presence or absence of nickel in the alloy that makes the difference.
If it is a blued gun, more than likely it has an aluminum gripframe. The cylinder, cylinder frame and barrel should be steel. The magnet will not stick to the gripframe.
If it is a stainless gun then the entire gun will be stainless.
Should be easy to tell the difference.
Post a serial number or partial.

 

[il.bill]

I could go to the trouble of posting pics, but ...

When a member is asking questions for assistance, it seems that common courtesy would be to "go to the trouble of posting" some pictures, especially when requested by those trying to help. They are going to the trouble of spending time with this thread for you.

I myself am generally a big fan of firearm pictures, regardless of the state of assembly. Post a picture or two. Guns in pieces can look interesting.

I really, really like my NM Ruger Single Six .22LR, but ejecting the spent cases seems somewhat tedious and I do not think eight or ten chambers would be more desirable. But that is just me - you may well want the extra capacity, and it could certainly be done with some time and money.

 

[Revolver Ocelot]

il.bill, I understand the point you are getting at, but fact of the matter is it'll take me 30 minutes of trying to get them from point a to point b when the question has already been answered.

 

[BCRider]

On my old 3 screw blued SS the ejector tube is also alloy. So along with the grip frame you've got two parts that will confirm carbon vs stainless.

 

[jad0110]

I know Ruger didn't always make stainless Single Sixes. Early guns up until at least the late 60s were all blued carbon steel, correct?

When did Ruger first introduce the stainless version? The OP's was made in '74, if stainless wasn't an option until '75 or later it's a good bet his is blued.

 

[rcmodel]

1974 I believe.

rc

 

[Revolver Ocelot]

The gun had an alloy grip frame, but given that I received the gun as a bag of parts there was no guarantee that the parts all went together. I have verified the gun is supposed to be blued using rc's advise.

Thanks all.

 

[CraigC]

...no sense in letting him go uniformed.

Now that right there is funny!!!