Single Ten problem

[laylow]

Just boxed up my brand new Single Ten and sent it back to Ruger. When the loading gate is opened, the cylinder jams up. There appears to be damage on the cylinder ratchet, maybe from the pawl. Pretty annoyed, as I've had to send back three Rugers this year.

 

[Old Stumpy]

Just boxed up my brand new Single Ten and sent it back to Ruger. When the loading gate is opened, the cylinder jams up. There appears to be damage on the cylinder ratchet, maybe from the pawl. Pretty annoyed, as I've had to send back three Rugers this year.

Their quality control sure isn't what it used to be. It seems to be the small details that they overlook.
I have never sent one back, but I have fixed several new ones that I bought.

1) New Bearcat - binding cylinder latch: Removed, turned cap in lathe to reduce diameter slightly, reblued.
2) Single Six - Spring sticking out of rear adjustable sight: Removed, but destroyed in the process. Wound a new one.
3) SR1911A1 - Bad crown, ragged muzzle after shooting: Turned barrel in lathe and recrowned it with brass ball & abrasive technique.
- Difficult to remove barrel: Stoned away burrs inside slide that were interfering.
- Magazine binding slightly: Removed grips, taped up, and ground away excess ragged rivet tails on Ruger grip medallions.
(These were obviously too long for semi-auto grip panels in the first place)
4) Super Blackhawk Stainless - Sharp edges on loading gate and hammer spur: Polished with abrasive cloth and polishing compound.

 

[LaneP]

I agree with @Old Stumpy, it seems every Ruger I get has some "little thing" that needs to be addressed. With my last purchase, a New Vaquero .45 Colt, the transfer bar was too tall and would bind against the lower edge of the step on the hammer face. You don't notice this when shooting, but lowering the hammer deliberately you do. Eventually this would break the transfer bar. Dressed off about 1/16" to fix.

My Super Redhawk would only lightly dent CCI small magnum rifle primers when trigger cocking. Had to dress hammer face to increase forward travel and shimmed hammer due to rubbing on one side of frame. All good now.

I shot the front sight off my SR1911 CMD twice before giving up on the MIM front sight Ruger makes and mounted a steel sight with roll pin. That sight isn't going anywhere.

Aside from these annoyances they are tanks.

 

[beag_nut]

I hope that Ruger corrects the problem with the OP's Single-Ten. To counter some of the other negativity, I have eight Rugers, seven of which were bought in the last seven years (including a Single-Ten) and NOT ONE has ever had even a slight problem. We tend to hear about all the bad ones, so this is just my two cents from the other side.

 

[sequins]

I've had to send some rugers back lately but I'm still buying Ruger. I sure love their revolvers.

Hope you get sorted out soon!

 

[Old Stumpy]

I hope that Ruger corrects the problem with the OP's Single-Ten. To counter some of the other negativity, I have eight Rugers, seven of which were bought in the last seven years (including a Single-Ten) and NOT ONE has ever had even a slight problem. We tend to hear about all the bad ones, so this is just my two cents from the other side.

I would like to believe that it's just the odd one that has problems.
But the fact that almost every Ruger handgun that I bought in a period of a few years had a problem makes it impossible to believe that it's just bad luck or a coincidence.
The odds that only one person among thousands would get all of the lemons would be astronomical.

Not mentioned in my earlier post was the brand new New Vaquero that I bought that had unacceptable slow timing.
(The first Ruger that I ever owned with such a defect.)

I did buy a blued .45 Colt Blackhawk with no problems other than an aluminum grip frame that wasn't that great of a fit on either side of the hammer (a bit high).
However, considering that these are the least expensive SAA center-fire revolvers in the series, it was okay.

 

[dasmi]

Well, it's back from Ruger with a new cylinder and pawl. And it's going back to Ruger tomorrow. The action is locked, cannot cock the hammer with the cylinder inserted. With it removed, it will cock. So that's lovely.

 

[laylow]

Posted the above from my old account I forgot I had, and lastpass automatically logged in. But anyway, yes, it's going back to Ruger.

 

[Old Stumpy]

Well, it's back from Ruger with a new cylinder and pawl. And it's going back to Ruger tomorrow. The action is locked, cannot cock the hammer with the cylinder inserted. With it removed, it will cock. So that's lovely.

The timing on those ten shot cylinders might be pretty finicky.
I suspect that with the six shot Blackhawks and Single Sixes that they rarely need to do any timing adjustments after assembly.

 

[ontarget]

If the single ten is like the Wrangler you would need to rotate the cylinder by hand until the bolt (cylinder stop) engages before you can pull back the hammer. Otherwise it feels "locked up".

 

[laylow]

Can't rotate it at all, even with the loading gate open.

 

[Old Stumpy]

Can't rotate it at all, even with the loading gate open.

That's odd. The loading gate retracts the cylinder bolt. The cylinder should then spin clockwise while the ratchet clicks against the pawl. Sounds like the pawl is jammed forward.
After you remove the cylinder, can you push the pawl rearwards into the frame against its spring?
If not then maybe the little pawl spring and plunger are installed incorrectly or the little pawl coil spring is kinked and out of position.

 

[laylow]

The pawl moves with the cylinder removed. The cylinder hand doesn't. I'm wondering if the hand spring is jammed or broken.

 

[Old Stumpy]

The pawl moves with the cylinder removed. The cylinder hand doesn't. I'm wondering if the hand spring is jammed or broken.

By pawl, I mean the cylinder hand. Two names for the same part. By cylinder bolt I mean the part that locks upward into the cylinder notches.
If the hand won't move rearward, then it is quite likely that the spring is bent or kinked. As a tiny coil spring, it wouldn't break. A little steel plunger pushes against the cylinder hand and fits into a hole in the grip frame with the spring inside the hole behind it.

 

[laylow]

OK, then it's the cylinder bolt that won't move as it should.

 

[Old Stumpy]

OK, then it's the cylinder bolt that won't move as it should.

Okay. But, it moves downward when you open the loading gate doesn't it?

There is an odd-shaped flat steel spring that tensions the loading gate that also pushes against a pin on the side of the cylinder bolt to retract it into the frame when you open the gate.
There is also another tiny spring and plunger housed in the grip frame that pushes the cylinder bolt upwards for its operation. Maybe it is the one installed incorrectly or is kinked. I know from experience that it can be a bit of a beech to put back together correctly.

 

[laylow]

Yep, it does move when I opened the loading gate. I just removed the cylinder, cocked it, and pulled the trigger. Now it works normally again. I guess I'll shoot it a bit and see how things go.

 

[MidRoad]

Yep, it does move when I opened the loading gate. I just removed the cylinder, cocked it, and pulled the trigger. Now it works normally again. I guess I'll shoot it a bit and see how things go.

Did the base pin pull out ok?

 

[Old Stumpy]

Yep, it does move when I opened the loading gate. I just removed the cylinder, cocked it, and pulled the trigger. Now it works normally again. I guess I'll shoot it a bit and see how things go.

Maybe it will smooth out.

 

[laylow]

Base pin is a little tight, but it does pull out.

Did the base pin pull out ok?