Six Shot revolver

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Randy45

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Need some info..I inherited a FIE Model E15 six shot .22 LR revolver...took it out to the gun range to try it out....fired well but I couldn't get the spent casings removed from the cylinder....I had already given it a good cleaning before going to the range....had to take out the cylinder out and manually (forcibly) remove each casing....tried it a second time...same problem...can't seem to find a downloadable manual for it.....not sure what step to take next to get it working properly...thought about replacing the cylinder?

also the ejector rod wouldn't even push the casings out....I am a little stumped. any ideas??
 
Yikes. Sounds like some extremely poor engineering. If that's the revolver I think it is I'd ditch it and get something better. Aren't those worth about $50?
 
I know it ain't worth much but it belonged to my great grandfather so it does have some sentimental value.....I figured if nothing else I might be able to learn how to do some repairs on my own rather than risking it on something more valuable in my collection.........
 
I had something like that happen in my great grandpa's H&R once. Took a copper brush scrubber and about 4 hrs worth of elbow grease to get out all the build up of unburnt powder out evidently he used 22 shorts in it and 22 lr would stick just like yours is doing. You have to scrub till you dont see a ring down there at the end of the cylinder. If I had thought about it I would have soaked it over night in Hoppe's #9.
 
Doc2rn's got it, I had a similar problem with a single six.

Though- if the ejector rod doesn't work even when the cylinder is empty, it may well be bent or stuck - try that first, especially if cartridges are easy to put in and hard to pull out. Had that happen on a K22 (poor thing came from an abusive home.)
 
My mother had a older H&R 22. If she shot stingers she had that problems. But standard load 22 work OK.
 
The FIEs revolvers cylinders that I encountered when I was gunsmithing were very rough inside and as doc2rn said powder and grease residue would build up.

If doc's solution doesn't work you could try fine emery cloth around a small rod, but go slow and all the way through each hole. Don't get in a hurry! Do all six holes and shoot a little and see if you have made any progress. Then repeat as often as need be.
 
I also own an E15, but when I recieved mine, it had only about 12 rounds through it. I have yet to have any problems with it. I think doc2rn has the right idea for ya. Not an expensive gun, and maybe not the best built piece out there, but still is fun to shoot.

Noidster
 
randy
put that brush on a drill & turn slowly while back & forthing it .
if you need a little titer brush wrap a little chore boy copper pot scrubbers around it & your favorite solvent mines eds red!!!

2cents worth.

GP100man
 
Not having seen your gun I may be completely wrong, but I have seen it happen on other inexpensive rimfire revolvers and a derringer IIRC.
It may be a direct result of somebody dry firing and it may be easily repairable.
The firing pin may have peened some metal on the edge of each chamber that is now dragging on the cartridge case as you try to extract it.
It only takes a few times dry firing on some of these to do this.
If you can see firing pin marks on the face of your cylinder you likely have this problem.
After you have cleaned your cylinder as the other posters have suggested, look though it with a strong light and see if you can see the little "lump" of peened metal where it sould otherwise be a perfect circle.
A couple of strokes with a tiny round file or something similar, may fix the problem.
If nobody else dry fires it, it would stay fixed.
Go slow and careful, you don't need to move much metal.
On an older gun it could be the old "firing shorts in a LR chamber" problem, but your gun came out after the time that 22 shorts were in common use.
 
I had one of those a few years ago. Didnt have a problem ejecting empties, but the cylinder wouldn't turn after a couple of shots. I took the cylinder pin and with a piece of cotton cloth and some fine lapping compound (we had some at the garage for motor rebuilds), I worked that cylinder pin over. I didn't mike it out - just periodically checked it until the cylinder moved freely on the pin. Gave it a touch of gunslick and put it back together. Worked fine after that. It took me longer to get the compound out and on the rag than it did to do the job - a little bit will go a long way, so be careful however you do the job whether with a file, emory cloth, chore boy, etc. Check your work frequently, cylinder by cylinder.

And, yes, FIEs are worth $50 if you are lucky. I hocked mine 7 years ago to buy a Christmas tree and barely got enough for the tree. That was one of the prettiest trees we have ever had.

Q
 
Take tyhe grips off, and leave it in a pail of gasoline overnight. That should get all the gunk out. A gunsmith I knew used to clean his guns that way, and he swore by it
 
thanks all...I just got back from a vacation to visit my wife's family in pittsburgh....I will try cleaning the cylinder with a good hoppes soaking..and I did inspect the cylinder and it looks like it has been dry fired......I will let you know the outcome...thanks for the help...
 
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