I am cleaning my new Yugo SKS and have disassembled most of it. I noticed that there is alot of gunk between the recoil spring and its guide rod. Since I was planning to soak these parts in hoppes solvent, I wanted to know if the spring should be taken off the guide rod or be left alone and cleaned as it is. Is it difficult to take the recoil spring off?
SKS recoil spring
- Thread starter Sandman
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TearsOfRage
Member
It's not hard, except that the little end piece can get lost. I never take mine apart though.
When you're putting the whole spring back in the bolt carrier, remember , "Mr. Squiggly goes in first" (the squiggly end of the spring goes into the carrier)
And be sure to clean the bolt thoughly so the firing pin rattles when you shake it. SKS's have been known to slamfire if the firing pin gets stuck.
When you're putting the whole spring back in the bolt carrier, remember , "Mr. Squiggly goes in first" (the squiggly end of the spring goes into the carrier)
And be sure to clean the bolt thoughly so the firing pin rattles when you shake it. SKS's have been known to slamfire if the firing pin gets stuck.
Braz
Member
Cleaning mine too SM,
I've heard the tales of cosmoline sweating out of the stocks, and they weren't kidding. Mine is gonna take a week in the sun to stop prespiring grease. I've got an aftermarket stock on order.
I was bummed to find the granade launcher has to be cut off. It's pin is flanged on each end. I want to get rid of the weight forward. It also has a silly muzzle brake. Whe I asked about removing it, I was told Kali doesn't allow threaded barrels. Cripes. Well, by golly, I'll remove the bayonet at least. No. The damn thing has been whacked on the sides of the pin hole to prevent removal! I swear. Anyway, hope all goes well with yours. I see a trip to the gunsmith in my future to remove all this mess.
The Yugos are a heavier rifle than the Chi-coms. And it reminds me of a smaller M1 in many ways. If I can get it the way I want, I'll be happy. It's almost as cheap to shoot as a .22! Can't beat that, I guess.
I've heard the tales of cosmoline sweating out of the stocks, and they weren't kidding. Mine is gonna take a week in the sun to stop prespiring grease. I've got an aftermarket stock on order.
I was bummed to find the granade launcher has to be cut off. It's pin is flanged on each end. I want to get rid of the weight forward. It also has a silly muzzle brake. Whe I asked about removing it, I was told Kali doesn't allow threaded barrels. Cripes. Well, by golly, I'll remove the bayonet at least. No. The damn thing has been whacked on the sides of the pin hole to prevent removal! I swear. Anyway, hope all goes well with yours. I see a trip to the gunsmith in my future to remove all this mess.
The Yugos are a heavier rifle than the Chi-coms. And it reminds me of a smaller M1 in many ways. If I can get it the way I want, I'll be happy. It's almost as cheap to shoot as a .22! Can't beat that, I guess.
Destructo6
Member
Go ahead and take the recoil spring assembly apart. It's quite easy.
Slip the issue cleaning rod in the hollow end when you put it back together in order to keep the small end from collapsing.
My Yugo SKS sweats grease any time it gets warm. Arizona Response Systems has a method on their site to eliminate the grease from the stock. It mainly involves very hot water.
Slip the issue cleaning rod in the hollow end when you put it back together in order to keep the small end from collapsing.
My Yugo SKS sweats grease any time it gets warm. Arizona Response Systems has a method on their site to eliminate the grease from the stock. It mainly involves very hot water.
rugerfreak
Member
- Joined
- Dec 25, 2002
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- 492
I took a hair dryer to my stock----(even though I don't have hair anymore--lol) and it seemed to sweat the wood fairly well. After the hair dryer treatment---I used lemon oil.
The stock seems mostly gunk free now---but the good lemon smell only lasted for a few days---then the old stinky smell came back.
When summer comes-----the stock will spend a few afternoons on the back deck in the hot sun---to see if I can get any more of the stuff out.
The stock seems mostly gunk free now---but the good lemon smell only lasted for a few days---then the old stinky smell came back.
When summer comes-----the stock will spend a few afternoons on the back deck in the hot sun---to see if I can get any more of the stuff out.
Rockrivr1
Member
When I bought my new Yugo SKS I took the advice of a few TFLers and put the stock in my oven at 180 degrees. I kept it in there until the stock stopped sweating Cosmo. I took it out a few times in between to wipe it down and then put it back in again. I wouldn't go above 180 or 190 as you don't want to scald the wood
Once that was done I used mineral spirits to get out most of the dirt build up. I then applied several coats of Tung Oil to it. The stock was a little thirsty from the baking and cleaning so it sucked up the Tung Oil. The gun looks awesome now and I haven't had any sweating problems.
The recoil spring as stated above is pretty easy to take apart and soak. I did that as well to get the cosmo out. The hard part was getting it back together. You can do it but I'd recommend having a friend help. It's much easier with 4 hands instead of two.
Good luck
Troy
Once that was done I used mineral spirits to get out most of the dirt build up. I then applied several coats of Tung Oil to it. The stock was a little thirsty from the baking and cleaning so it sucked up the Tung Oil. The gun looks awesome now and I haven't had any sweating problems.
The recoil spring as stated above is pretty easy to take apart and soak. I did that as well to get the cosmo out. The hard part was getting it back together. You can do it but I'd recommend having a friend help. It's much easier with 4 hands instead of two.
Good luck
Troy
Tropical Z
Member
First,leave the spring on the guide rod!
Save yourself some money and do the following.
Go to wal-mart and buy one of those .88 cent sterilite shoebox sized plastic boxes and put an inch or two of mineral spirits ($1.88 gallon-also at wal-mart)and let all your metal parts soak for at least 24 hours.Make sure you take the bolt apart and let it soak also so you wont have a slamfire.Scrub with a brush or paintbrush at the end of the soak,let dry for 24 hours and re-oil.
I put a VERY light coat of oil on the firing pin to prevent rust-dont over do it!
Save yourself some money and do the following.
Go to wal-mart and buy one of those .88 cent sterilite shoebox sized plastic boxes and put an inch or two of mineral spirits ($1.88 gallon-also at wal-mart)and let all your metal parts soak for at least 24 hours.Make sure you take the bolt apart and let it soak also so you wont have a slamfire.Scrub with a brush or paintbrush at the end of the soak,let dry for 24 hours and re-oil.
I put a VERY light coat of oil on the firing pin to prevent rust-dont over do it!
Destructo6
Member
The guide is easy to get back together. Simply insert the cleaning rod into the hollow end to keep the small part of the guide from collapsing. It's comically easy this way.
Tropical Z
Member
Just get a nice brush and scrub-scrub-scrub!
I also make a point of turning over any parts and swishing the mineral spirits around during the soak.The stuff i use from wal-mart is "Klee Strip-paint thinner" and its in a blue and white jug.When reassembling,the c shaped end on the guide rod assembly goes in first.
I also make a point of turning over any parts and swishing the mineral spirits around during the soak.The stuff i use from wal-mart is "Klee Strip-paint thinner" and its in a blue and white jug.When reassembling,the c shaped end on the guide rod assembly goes in first.
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