SKS?

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guns3738

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My grandfather and I want to get an sks (made in russia not china) is there anything to watchout for when bying? Or is their different features we should look for? any help would be grate.

I might want to add that my granddad knows more then I about them.

Thanks
 
The only thing to watch out for is when chambering a round. The firing pin in an SKS is free floating & when chambering a round, it contacts the primer. If you chamber a round, then extract it, you'll notice a small hit on the primer. That's why military ammo has a harder primer. Make sure it's pointed downrange - especially when shooting non-military ammo. It can slam fire when the round chambers.
 
It's an SKS. It'll work.

I wouldn't buy a Russian though, if all you're going to do is plink with it. Norincos shoot just as well for $200 less.
 
Yeah if you don't know much about SKSs, get a Chinese one. They are as well made as the Russian ones but there are a lot more of them around so they are cheaper.
 
Plinking or customizing it, get the Norinco cheap.
Collectibility, get the Russian--btw, the early russian SKS do not have a floating firing pin. That is where Murray got the idea from.

Make sure to clean all of the cosmolene out of the bolt and chamber and you might want to consider getting a Tech Systems rear sight unless you love open sights. You can always restore the open sights if you decide to sell it.
 
It's an SKS. It'll work.

I wouldn't buy a Russian though, if all you're going to do is plink with it. Norincos shoot just as well for $200 less.
I've owned 4 different SKS rifles, all unmodified and in good condition, thoroughly cleaned. Three had feed issues.

Just saying.
 
It's an SKS. It'll work.

I wouldn't buy a Russian though, if all you're going to do is plink with it. Norincos shoot just as well for $200 less.

Yup. Ditto. What he^ said ;). The Russian's have a little collector value, but the extra money doesn't transfer into a substantive increase in actual value or quality. I've been seeing prices drop on these significantly in the last year, and even then, they tend to take a long time to sell.
Many of the Russians are factory refurbs. You can typically spot these by the matte black "BBQ-grill paint". If you can score a deal on a (non refurb) shiny blued one with a nice birch stock, I'd go for it.
That being said, the couple Russians I've fired had some pretty nasty trigger slap. No Chinese I've fired has it.
Check your local Armslist, I'm regularly seeing clean, un-bubba'd Chinese and Yugoslavian SKS's for about $300, and the Russians running $500-550, maybe $450 if you're lucky.
 
Russian or Chnese, look for a good clean gun that has not been screwed with, in the original stock. Avoid a gun from Bubba. My experience was the Russian guns carried the higher price tag but the good ones in the laminated stocks were a nice rifle. When it comes to shooting I never saw much difference between a Russian and Chinese Communist gun. I can't believe the prices they demand in either flavor. Anyway, if you want Russian then buy Russian. Bubba also liked to rip the 10 round internal factory magazines out and replace with other magazines. Avoid those guns. You want a rifle exactly as Sergei Gavrilovich Simonov intended for it to be.

As mentioned the rifle, like many, many other service type rifles uses a free floating firing pin. During their heyday millions were shooting daily without a problem, if it concerns you use the linked fix, I never worried about it using ammunition designed and loaded for the rifle.

You may also want to check out the SKS boards. Just about anything you could want to know and stuff you didn't want to know all in one place. :)

Once you get the rifle of your choice enjoy it and keep it clean, especially if you shoot any of the older surplus corrosive primed ammunition.

Ron
 
You are in Michigan! Move to Canada and you can buy SKS much cheaper! If you pick a Chinese one, they have pinned barrels, may not make much difference but generally threaded barrel is more desirable. Check chamber headspace, SKS can have loose chamber. I had SKS that will swallow spent case from my bolt gun in x39. My good SKSs shoot not far from my FAL!
 
I have a Russian, three Yugo's, and a Chinese. For finding and shooting I would go with the Yugo, then the Russian, and lastly the Chinese. The furniture on my Russian is beautiful!

As others have said, send the bolt to Murrays and get it upgraded. I believe that is the best money you can spend to upgrade any SKS.
 
As others have said, send the bolt to Murrays and get it upgraded. I believe that is the best money you can spend to upgrade any SKS.

I have to very respectfully disagree. While the Murrays conversion is necessary in some cases, I believe the issue is overblown.

I have owned a dozen or so SKSs over the years and have not experienced one slamfire. Then again, when I acquire one I clean it thoroughly, including completely disassembling the bolt and cleaning the firing pin channel.
It is really not that difficult to clean that firing pin channel.....but sometimes it requires a sharp rap on the firing pin retaining pin which scares some folks.
IMHO, a Kivaari trigger job is the best upgrade for your money.
 
sks

The Russian sks I bought weeped cosmoline every time I shot it. I thoroughly cleaned the metal parts with mineral spirits because everything was packed with cosmoline.

Other than that, try and make sure all serial numbers are matching. If you have any doubt about the integrity of the rifle then let a good gunsmith look at it. I would personally go with a Chinese make as they are on par quality wise. Plus your grand father can use the money he saved on ammo so yall can shoot more :)
 
My grandfather and I want to get an sks (made in russia not china) is there anything to watchout for when bying? Or is their different features we should look for? any help would be grate.

I might want to add that my granddad knows more then I about them.

Thanks
While a Chinese SKS may be as durable and reliable as other SKS, i don;t care for the fit and finish. They are a mixed batch of fit and finish but I've found the Chinese SKS to often have all sorts of machine marks, some don't have as quality blueing as I've seen elsewhere, and the sear surface is often has dangerously negative engagement with the hammer surface. While you can certainly find nicer examples of Chinese SKS, if any of those items are important to you then just inspect what you are purchasing to ensure you are getting an example that meets your standards. I also suggest closely inspecting the the fire control group for negative sear engagement and get a trigger job done by a skilled gunsmith to ensure you have positive sear engagement (not to mention a much nicer trigger pull). Kivaari and Murray's are two that specialize in SKS triggers, check out online reviews of both.

I know many who criticize the Yugoslavian SKS because they have non-chrome lined barrels. Frankly it's an overblown issue unless you plan on shooting surplus corrosive ammunition or plan on sustaining regular rapid fire. Most of us are never going to shoot out a Yugo SKS barrel in a lifetime, loading with stripper clips, using them for hunting, self defense, or fun. If you plan on engaging serious and prolonged combat then perhaps it's a concern.

My suggestion would be to find an Yugo M59 (not M59/66). They are lighter than the M59/66 with it's grenade launching mechanisms and also have the simple and traditional SKS gas system. Personally I find the fit, finish and quality of the Yugo SKS parts to be nicer than all of the rest, and if you plan on regularly cleaning and oiling your barrel like you would do with most other non-military style weapons, it's really a non-issue.

I've never seen a properly cleaned bolt have a slam fire. The first think you should do when you get your SKS is order some 7.62x39 snap caps, a quality hardened 1/8" starter punch, a quality hardened 1/8" regular pin pinch, and a heavy (a few pounds) hammer.

(if you are not mechanically inclined and (or) don't have confidence to handle the following steps consult a gun smith) When the tools arrive field strip, clean everything. Inspect the sear engagement to ensure you do not have negative sear engagement (lots of videos and how-to out there if you search for "SKS negative sear engagement." Hammer out the firing pin retaining pin with the punch set (observe the orientation of the firing pin). Clean that channel until a pipe cleaner comes out clean, clean the firing pin, clean the retaining pin, reassemble. Hold the bolt in your hand and shake forward to front several times over. If you can't hear/feel the firing pin lightly "clicking" as it moves freely forward and back in the channel then hammer out the pin and start again until you can hear it moving freely.

Reassemble, the SKS, load the snap caps and cycle and dry fire with the snap caps to test the operation. Never dry fire the SKS without snap caps in the chamber. It will cause your firing pin to create wear on the bolt face/ firing pin hole that can cause the firing pin to stick and create slam fires and in extreme cases actually cause the hole to protrude enough to cause slam fires. Visit www.sksboards.com where you will find lots of SKS enthusiasts and experts.
 
I had a 59/66 and that stupid grenade launcher drove me nuts. One day the gun jammed and I found a chrome colored sliver of metal stuck in the firing pin channel.

Mine refused to feed Wolf hollow points. They would stop right on the chamber face.
 
I have to very respectfully disagree. While the Murrays conversion is necessary in some cases, I believe the issue is overblown.

I have owned a dozen or so SKSs over the years and have not experienced one slamfire. Then again, when I acquire one I clean it thoroughly, including completely disassembling the bolt and cleaning the firing pin channel.
It is really not that difficult to clean that firing pin channel.....but sometimes it requires a sharp rap on the firing pin retaining pin which scares some folks.
IMHO, a Kivaari trigger job is the best upgrade for your money.
Well, after reading about possibility of slam firing (and not believing it) I pulled 10 factory rounds of military ammo, dumped the powder & chambered the fired cases in my den with the rifle pointed at the fireplace. I'm glad I wore hearing protection because one of them fired. All had light firing pin hits on the primers.

I repeated the test with 10 factory non-military rounds. Two of them fired.

If you choose to do such a test, make sure to use hearing protection. Primers are VERY loud.

My Norinco SKS was purchased new, unfired. I used solvent with a toothbrush and Gun Scrubber to completely clean the firing pin area without disassembly. Then a bit of lube with Break Free.
 
as a few others have mentioned, slamfires are blown out of proportion, ive not once experienced them either, my AKs have floating pins too with no slamfires... it becomes an issue when people buy an SKS caked in cosmoline and shoot it withoutcompletely cleaning it out, the cosmoline can gum up the inside of the firing pin channel creating resistance to it being pushed back and it can be enough to set off a primer

getting the cosmoline from out of the inside of the bolt can be difficult, what i found works best is submerging the bolt in boiling water and dish soap, this will get ALL the gunk out, then dry it off and put on a light coating of oil and the problem would be solved... this also fixes "sticky bolts" on mosins
 
I soul bot, however, oil a firing pin or channel. Any debris can get held in that area by lube, cake on, and you may get a sticky pin.
 
the oil isnt to actually lubricate the firing pin, but after you strip off all the cosmoline and especially after you use hot water which will cause flash rust to form overnight if you do not protect it with a little oil

sticky pins are caused by the cosmoline is the cause of most SKS slam fires when they do actually occur so its important to make sure you get it all out of the firing pin channel and off the pin itself
 
the oil isnt to actually lubricate the firing pin, but after you strip off all the cosmoline and especially after you use hot water which will cause flash rust to form overnight if you do not protect it with a little oil

sticky pins are caused by the cosmoline is the cause of most SKS slam fires when they do actually occur so its important to make sure you get it all out of the firing pin channel and off the pin itself
That's fair, but ill assume you mean a thin protectorate.
 
That's fair, but ill assume you mean a thin protectorate.
yeah, just enough to protect it, rub some oil on and then wipe it off, you may have to run a dry patch or a pipe cleaner down the inside of the firing pin channel to oil it and remove the excess
 
I bought a Chinese version about 20 years ago. Fun to shoot, never a problem. Last year, decided to go out back with a buddy on a 15 degree day. Load up 5, shoot, BRRP.... 4 rounds full auto. What the??? Decided to try a gaian, only load 3, BRRP.....3 rounds full auto. Take home, dismantle bolt, clean and coat bolt internals with nothing thicker than RemOil and never had the problem since. That grease they use to protect them in storage gets in everywhere. When it gets cold, it changes from grease to putty.

I'm with the others. If you're getting the gun to actually shoot and play with, don't waste your money on collector features that do not affect function.

Muzzle awareness is important with any gun. Most of the slamfire cases I've heard of, including my own did not occur when the bolt was initially manually dropped, but rather for subsequent rounds after a round was fired.
 
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Did they have aftermarket mags? it's odd to hear of factory SKSes having feeding issues.

I've owned 4 different SKS rifles, all unmodified and in good condition, thoroughly cleaned. Three had feed issues.

Just saying.
 
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