smith 686 4" no-dash value
- Thread starter jimbombo
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dprice3844444
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ljnowell
Member
I have a 4" -3 and around here they go for 500 used in good shape. I wouldnt let that one go for anything!
bikemutt
Member
I just bought a set of k/l frame target grips on ebay for $70. Now if you like Hogue monogrips then you may not feel the need to replace.
For me, with the rubber, $400.
For me, with the rubber, $400.
dawei
Member
I have a 1986 4" barrel 686 No Dash I bought in 2006 for $275.00. I recently turned down an offer of $600.00 for it. I won't sell at any price.
Fishslayer
Member
Well, we pay more in Cali but yeah, the Hogues would be a good bargaining point.
I paid WAY more than $500 for my 4" no dash a couple years ago. In my area it was a fair price, meaning if I didn't buy it somebody else would have, and very quickly.
The California roster and no internet sales makes for some pretty nice prices (for the seller) on older S&W revolvers.
bikemutt
Member
I've noticed the time of year has something to do with used gun prices. Colder seasons seem to command higher prices.
Anyway, I never know what to think about it when I see true classics being sold with modern grips. I'm generally leery about it and have learned that such specimens are best acquired following a hands-on inspection.
Echoing what others have said, my 6" no dash 686 is treasured and not for sale at any price. Crazy as that is, it has an inexplicable personal value.
Anyway, I never know what to think about it when I see true classics being sold with modern grips. I'm generally leery about it and have learned that such specimens are best acquired following a hands-on inspection.
Echoing what others have said, my 6" no dash 686 is treasured and not for sale at any price. Crazy as that is, it has an inexplicable personal value.
forindooruseonly
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Rubber grips can trap moisture and cause corrosion under the grip. I've seen a number of revolvers that suffered from never having the grips pulled and cleaned/oiled underneath. Nothing like bringing your new beauty home and finding a bunch of pitting.
I believe that is what bikemutt is referring to.
I believe that is what bikemutt is referring to.
bikemutt
Member
When I replace the grips on what we'll call a classic gun, it would never cross my mind to then dispose of the original grips. When it comes time for me to sell the gun I'll offer it to the prospective buyer as is, and include the original grips so he can return it to it's original state if he wishes to.
So perhaps leery is too harsh a word; it's just that when I see that somewhere along the line someone did something to a gun that I'd never consider doing, it gives me pause to consider what else might fall into the same category. Accordingly, I either want the gun at a substantially discounted price, or I want to personally inspect it in order to set my mind at ease.
bikemutt
Member
Funny you should mention that. A model 66 I just bought had a Hogue monogrip on it that once removed, yielded remarkable amounts of pocket lint and french fry fragments than I imagined possible, Burger King I think. The stunner for me is there were a couple areas that showed rust or rust-colored stains that would not wipe off with the usual solvents. I don't know for sure it's rust being a stainless gun, but it sure looked like rust.
forindooruseonly
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Stainless will absolutely rust, despite the name. It's more resilient to corrosion, but can still occur. My stainless Kahr K40 is a testament to that. I've seen few Smiths that way too, especially on duty guns where you could tell the officer rested his hand on the butt a lot.
lemaymiami
Member
-Must confess my ignorance here... I've owned a variety of Smith service revolvers and J frames (including one 686) and still have the model 10 heavy barrel I was issued back in 1973. I've never heard of a "no dash" designation. Would someone please set me straight?
forindooruseonly
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When S&W made changes to a model, they change the "dash" to a new number to indicate which variant it is. For example, a Model 586 "no dash" would be the first variant, while a 586-1 or "dash one" would indicate the next series of variant. After more changes are made in the design and production of them, the new ones are stamped 586-2, and so on and so forth. I think the Model 10 made it to 14 or 16 variants, so the frame would be stamped Model 10-16...
If you open the cylinder, behind the yoke is the model stamped into the frame. This is where you find what model you gun is - a 586 "dash" whatever, or no dash at all which is the original production run. Most of these changes between models are not visible and indicate small internal or production changes, though there are exceptions - MIM pieces and internal locks being the most obvious, as well as most despised, changes.
Generally speaking, the lower the dash number, the earlier the gun and the more desirable it will be for collectors.
Hope that helps, it's a little convoluted but I'm sure someone will straighten me out here soon enough.
trade opinions
So this is the trade I am considering.
My brand new SP101 2.25" in box + $100 for the 686 4" no dash excellent with hogues and no box. Opinions.. personally I don't think this trade favors either party. Nice 686's are getting harder and harder to find around here. I just got a 686-5 2.5" barrel. It is the nicest revolver I have ever owned, I guess I am a little starstruck with the gun I have and want to add another to my small collection! Opinions on the trade?
So this is the trade I am considering.
My brand new SP101 2.25" in box + $100 for the 686 4" no dash excellent with hogues and no box. Opinions.. personally I don't think this trade favors either party. Nice 686's are getting harder and harder to find around here. I just got a 686-5 2.5" barrel. It is the nicest revolver I have ever owned, I guess I am a little starstruck with the gun I have and want to add another to my small collection! Opinions on the trade?
ArchAngelCD
Member.
I agree $500 is the going price for early M686 revolver in good condition.
I own and shoot a 4" M686-2 and it's probably one revolver I would not want to do without. (the M686-2 is very close to the M686 no dash, firing pin mounted on the hammer and all)
I own and shoot a 4" M686-2 and it's probably one revolver I would not want to do without. (the M686-2 is very close to the M686 no dash, firing pin mounted on the hammer and all)
bikemutt
Member
Ok, where I live a 2.25" SP101 is worth $385 face-to-face. So, I'm saying YES to the trade.
Now, if the 686 has no M stamp, S&W will apply the recall at no cost to you if you want to have it done. Be prepared to be without the gun for a while, my 686 took a long time for the recall, like more than a month. For some reason my 586 took a week for the recall.
Please do the revolver checkout posted in the stickys.
Can't wait to see your pictures!
revolver checkout sticky!
Mutt, and anyone else, only place around me to do the trade is either near a gun store or near a sporting goods store, where you hopefully won't get too many stares! With that being said generally speaking good idea to not fart around too much, soo the checkout is kind of moot at this point. These are the things I look at in a timely manner:
1 overall appearance, turn ring, any scratches or possible refinishing.
2 cylinder play and end shake
3 check for possible flame cutting or damage to cone
4 I have noticed that round count can be estimated by wear to the forcing cone,
and check the forcing cone and bore.
Now Also in my opinion very important to check timing but any way to do this other than to put it into full lockup and check each cylinder?
If i missed something important or anyone has any input to make this process more effecient please let me know.
Thanks all.
Mutt, and anyone else, only place around me to do the trade is either near a gun store or near a sporting goods store, where you hopefully won't get too many stares! With that being said generally speaking good idea to not fart around too much, soo the checkout is kind of moot at this point. These are the things I look at in a timely manner:
1 overall appearance, turn ring, any scratches or possible refinishing.
2 cylinder play and end shake
3 check for possible flame cutting or damage to cone
4 I have noticed that round count can be estimated by wear to the forcing cone,
and check the forcing cone and bore.
Now Also in my opinion very important to check timing but any way to do this other than to put it into full lockup and check each cylinder?
If i missed something important or anyone has any input to make this process more effecient please let me know.
Thanks all.
bikemutt
Member
If feasible, obtain 6 snap caps, chamber them and squeeze off at least a full cycle. What I'd look for, beyond the fact that it cycles, is a consistent action on all chambers. Plus you will get a feel for the action.
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