So I decided I'm going to fix my Springfield...

[Quintin Likely]

After kicking around the options, I'm gonna give this thing a go myself. Granted, it's got a lifetime warranty, but I'm not one to use warranties. Besides, the way I rationalize it, if I can fix a $50,000 Lincoln, I can fix a 1911

So, after cruising around online, I've found the directions to remove the extractor...depress the firing pin, slide the little retainer out and...wow, that firing pin is under a fair amount of spring pressure. Half an hour later, I found it...

Now, the tuning part. This is where I'm a little fuzzy. I've found plenty of pictures of people bending the extractor in different directions to tune it, but they're all kinda vague. I did the loaded cartridge test, and regardless of what direction I bend it in, the cartridge falls out. I think I'm gonna replace it anyways, extractors are cheap and important in a 1911, right? Now, time for the obligatory dumb question: When ordering a new extractor for a Springfield, um, which one do I get? One for a Series 70 gun, or one for a Series 80 gun?

 

[azrael]

I dont think the 70 or 80 matters with the Springers...I think that only matters with the Colt's

 

[1911Tuner]

Extractor Tune

087-813-070 is the number to give to the nice folks that answer the phone at Brownells when you call 1-800-741-0015. If they're out of stock, order
the one for the Series 80 Colt. 087-813-080. Either one will work.

If you can't tell a difference in the tension on your extractor, you won't likely have any better results with that Brown Hardcore listed above without some minor fitting. Namely, reducing the forward pad to let the
hook move closer to the slide/breechface centerline. The pad is located
on the inside, just behind the hook, and it acts as a stop. Extractors
that come from many different makers and are installed in many different
makes of pistols are all subject to tolerance issues that may or may not
allow a drop-in swap. This adjustment can also be done on the stock extractor to gain some tension.

The preferred method for reducing the pad is with a grinding wheel and
"rolling" the pad against it to remove material while following the radius.
It can be done with a file, but it's slower and not as neat unless you're good with a file. If you use the grindstone, be careful not to let the
part get hot. When you start to feel the heat, back off and let it cool
or dip it into some water for a few seconds. If the steel turns a pretty blue color...throw it in the can and order a new one.

While I'm an advocate of upgrading certain small parts immediately upon
noticing a problem, it may be a waste of money. Rule of thumb: If it ain't
broke, don't fix it. The gun may not need a thing. Shoot it about 500 times and see how it does. I'm finally going to take possession of a
new WW@ Springer next weekend. I'll wring it out and report back about
every 1,000 rounds or so.

Luck!

Tuner

 

[Quintin Likely]

Well...about 500 rounds in so far, and the ejection patterns are getting worse and worse everyday. Along with reading a few posts regarding a bad batch of extractors from Springfield, and reading of the importance of the extractor in a 1911, I figured I'd give it a go. Granted, I haven't been able yet to shoot this thing after my "tuning," but tomorrow's supposed to be a pretty nice day, so we'll see how it goes then.

Stay tuned.

 

[1911Tuner]

Bad Ejection

Quintin said:
Well...about 500 rounds in so far, and the ejection patterns are getting worse and worse everyday.

Aha! Sounds like you got one of the bad extractors. What may be happening is that the hook is wearing. If that's the case, the pistol may start failing to extract unless it's one of those that times just right and will
run without an extractor...in which case, the last round will get crunched by the slide.

Might be best to go ahead and order the Brown extractor and tweak it a
little.

Tuner