SilentStalker
Member
As the title states what do you guys use to clean your most priced AR15's? Kits, tools, chemicals, steps, etc. What do you use and how do you use it, and how often?
So..what do you use to clean your favorite AR15?
- Thread starter SilentStalker
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P.B.Walsh
Member
Spit and some elbow grease and she'll run nice n' purdy
I don't own an AR, just wish I did
I don't own an AR, just wish I did
FlyinBryan
Member
just the standard stuff.
hoppes #9
coated rod, brass jag, cotton patches. i use a chamber brush with the lockup cleaning bristles, and also put a patch on it to clean the lockup area. just kinda stuff the patch into the bristles. its the hardest place to clean for me.
pipe cleaners to run through all the holes in the bolt and an old toothbrush to scrub under the extractor.
then lube everything with mobil1 synthetec
hoppes #9
coated rod, brass jag, cotton patches. i use a chamber brush with the lockup cleaning bristles, and also put a patch on it to clean the lockup area. just kinda stuff the patch into the bristles. its the hardest place to clean for me.
pipe cleaners to run through all the holes in the bolt and an old toothbrush to scrub under the extractor.
then lube everything with mobil1 synthetec
I just pour a little denatured alcohol (1 gallon/$15 Lowes) through the thing which takes off most of the oil and grime and then spray the thing with a little Rem oil. Only put around 1k rounds through it with one cleaning by the above method and functioning has been 100%. CMMG makes a great rifle.
FWIW - cleaning a Mosin Nagant with alcohol WILL strip the finish off the stock
FWIW - cleaning a Mosin Nagant with alcohol WILL strip the finish off the stock
I'm a fan of using non-toxic cleaners, so I have been rolling lately with Hoppe's Elite. I use any variety of oils for lube...from 3 in 1 oil to a full synthetic engine oil.
Slip2000 is also non-toxic, as is Ballistol.
I usually use a coated, one piece rod with a brush and jag, good patches, and also a chamber brush. If I'm in a hurry or particularly lazy, I use a boresnake for 2 or 3 passes.
Nothing fancy. Cleaning an AR-15 isn't anything mythical or special and it shouldn't take long.
Slip2000 is also non-toxic, as is Ballistol.
I usually use a coated, one piece rod with a brush and jag, good patches, and also a chamber brush. If I'm in a hurry or particularly lazy, I use a boresnake for 2 or 3 passes.
Nothing fancy. Cleaning an AR-15 isn't anything mythical or special and it shouldn't take long.
sarduy
Member
Hoppes-9
cotton patches
standard rod with .223 brush for the barrel
chamber brush
toothbrush (works great)
wipe clean every single part
then oil everything back with Mobil-1 Synthetec (great for guns)
+100
+100 CMMG
cotton patches
standard rod with .223 brush for the barrel
chamber brush
toothbrush (works great)
wipe clean every single part
then oil everything back with Mobil-1 Synthetec (great for guns)
+100
+100 CMMG
RockyMtnTactical
Member
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Lube it well and you don't need to clean it as much.
skidooman603
Member
Mobil 1? No S**t. Gonna have to try that as I seem to be running my AR way too dry as described in a recent thread. Another reason to love Mobil 1 other than my 200,000 mile Audi
Tinpig
Member
In addition to most of the above, one of my most useful gun-cleaning tools is a pointed wooden shish kebab skewer (stolen from my wife's kitchen.)
Especially good on an AR for bolt faces and loosening carbon and crap from tight spaces without scratching anything. When they get blunt you can just sharpen them again.
Also useful as a non-marring drift-pin punch.
Tinpig
)
Especially good on an AR for bolt faces and loosening carbon and crap from tight spaces without scratching anything. When they get blunt you can just sharpen them again.
Also useful as a non-marring drift-pin punch.
Tinpig
Uncle Mike
Member
Slip 2000 Carbon Cutter.
If you don't want to spend your rubles on Slip.... Diesel Fuel works great...no lie, try it.
I strongly agree with the "lude well" post. Keep in mind the AR was not intended to last a long time such as a M1A.
It's cheap to build, cheap to maintain and when it gives up the ghost... you throw it away and get another one!(read Eugene Stoners book about the AR)
A liberal dousing of lube, oil and or a good synthetic gear lube, will extend your AR's life-
Don't be affraid... lube it up!
If you don't want to spend your rubles on Slip.... Diesel Fuel works great...no lie, try it.
I strongly agree with the "lude well" post. Keep in mind the AR was not intended to last a long time such as a M1A.
It's cheap to build, cheap to maintain and when it gives up the ghost... you throw it away and get another one!(read Eugene Stoners book about the AR)
A liberal dousing of lube, oil and or a good synthetic gear lube, will extend your AR's life-
Don't be affraid... lube it up!
Duelist
Member
Mobil One is awesome for AR-15s. She'll smoke a little for the first few shots, but afterwards, it's all good. Call me weird, but I use regular (non-synthetic) motor oil to break it in, then switch to Mobil One after 300 rounds or so.
Carb and Choke cleaner with a straw is great for cleaning out gas tubes. Spray about 3 seconds worth down the tube, watch the gunk drip out of your barrel, then spray 2 more 3 second shots and you'll be good to go.
Carb and Choke cleaner with a straw is great for cleaning out gas tubes. Spray about 3 seconds worth down the tube, watch the gunk drip out of your barrel, then spray 2 more 3 second shots and you'll be good to go.
briansmithwins
Member
- Joined
- Aug 1, 2005
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USGI and Otis kit with Break-Free CLP.
CLP dries out so I reapply before shooting. If I clean a rifle after a match, I'll apply more CLP before the next match a month later.
I've used LSA in the past. LSA stays around a lot longer than CLP but CLP is much better at rust prevention. Since I live on the wet side of Oregon, rust prevention is very important for me.
BSW
CLP dries out so I reapply before shooting. If I clean a rifle after a match, I'll apply more CLP before the next match a month later.
I've used LSA in the past. LSA stays around a lot longer than CLP but CLP is much better at rust prevention. Since I live on the wet side of Oregon, rust prevention is very important for me.
BSW
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Ed's Red and a wipe down of CLP. Q-tips, a nylon toothbrush are handy. Also have some 'oversized swabs' that fit the chamber.
I clean my guns every time I shoot them.
I use a fiberglass rod, bore brushes that came with the rifle and a .22 cal patch jag, nothing fancy.
I clean my guns every time I shoot them.
I use a fiberglass rod, bore brushes that came with the rifle and a .22 cal patch jag, nothing fancy.
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skidooman603
Member
Yep Q-tips rock!
Deer Hunter
Member
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- Dec 26, 2005
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When I clean my AR (havn't cleaned it yet. Put some oil on it, but havn't needed to clean it), I'll probably just use hoppes.
CMMG represent! I love mine.
I do the standard take-down, clean out the BCG, clean the chamber with a chamber brush, clean the barrel with a brass brush, wipe out the inside of the receiver, then re-lube. I also check the buffer/recoil spring, maybe put a dab of lube on the hammer, make sure every little nook and cranny is cleaned out, etc.
I used to use strictly CLP. But now I find myself using gun scrubber and motor oil as well.
But out of curiosity, why is Mobil 1 synthetic preferred over other motor oils? I never did ask why...
I do the standard take-down, clean out the BCG, clean the chamber with a chamber brush, clean the barrel with a brass brush, wipe out the inside of the receiver, then re-lube. I also check the buffer/recoil spring, maybe put a dab of lube on the hammer, make sure every little nook and cranny is cleaned out, etc.
I used to use strictly CLP. But now I find myself using gun scrubber and motor oil as well.
But out of curiosity, why is Mobil 1 synthetic preferred over other motor oils? I never did ask why...
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