Some folks just shouldn't be allowed to own hacksaws...
- Thread starter .45Guy
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CraigC
Sixgun Nut
The original front sights were integral to the barrel and it is extremely difficult to solder a new one in place and it look right. I went through this with Hamilton Bowen several years in regards to a very nice but chopped Triple-Lock. We decided it just wasn't worth the effort and expense. Which goes quadruple for a common M&P. Especially one that has been refinished. You could have an adjustable sight installed along with a ramp front but you've just spent $250 to put sights on an old worn out M&P when you could've bought a later model 14 or 15.
shuvelrider
Member
I would suggest letting a (competent) gunsmith rework the innards and then bead blast the outside with the proper media, put on a dark parkerization and get some proper factory grips. Use it for a work/fun gun when in the woods. Or send it off to Smith and let them put it back in proper form. Your overall cost will be high but that is up to you.
CraigC
Sixgun Nut
S&W won't touch that thing, it's too old. Would be best to find an old take-off barrel.
1911Tuner
Moderator Emeritus
Still a viable belly gun. Drill and tap for a shotgun bead sight and use it for an index reference for close range point-index shooting...and practice with it out to 10 yards...or just use it as is to hone point-shooting skills.
RevolvingGarbage
Member
I second the shotgun bead. I used one for a front sight on my I.J top break I snubbied, and the gun hits dead on using a 6 o'clock hold.
PRM
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SharpsDressedMan
member
There are at least four S&W Model 10 barrels on gunbroker right now, one nice 6" for a buy-it-now $90. Check them out.
CraigC
Sixgun Nut
Sometimes a good deal is just not good enough. Sometimes something is just more trouble than it's worth, even if it's free. If you don't care how it looks, you can always just slap a screw-on front sight on it.
InkEd
Member
I agree with CraigC. It's a "parts" gun.
Fat Boy
Member
I don't know exactly the process or what all is involved, but if the gun is sound functionally, it makes sense to me to clean up the crown and see about an inexpensive front sight- the shotgun bead seems like a good idea-
But then again, I like guns with a little "character"
But then again, I like guns with a little "character"
oldfool
Member
He did say it was 'tight', and some of those crappy looking old beaters actually will shoot pretty good. He didn't say if he had shot it as yet, which if in decent shooting condition would be step #1. If that proves functional, then.....
The shotgun bead is not a bad notion, cheap enough done. A uni-ramp front could likely be done by himself as well (minimal tapping plus some JB weld under ramp), though getting the sight height just right is touchy. Homeboy "recrowning" (of the minimalist sort) also not that tough to try, given the gun as is apparently has no "real value", nothing much to lose.
Feed the local gunsmith, I would not, but he really has nothing to lose here by tinker & trial. Try the shotgun bead and practice some point shooting, nothing ventured, nothing gained.
The shotgun bead is not a bad notion, cheap enough done. A uni-ramp front could likely be done by himself as well (minimal tapping plus some JB weld under ramp), though getting the sight height just right is touchy. Homeboy "recrowning" (of the minimalist sort) also not that tough to try, given the gun as is apparently has no "real value", nothing much to lose.
Feed the local gunsmith, I would not, but he really has nothing to lose here by tinker & trial. Try the shotgun bead and practice some point shooting, nothing ventured, nothing gained.
oldfool
Member
PS
If you are willing to tread into the way-out weirdness of "nobody would ever do this", they do sell that "fiber optic" rod stock cheap in hobby shops, bright colors and diameters of choice (for model builders), comes in like six or ten packs of rods maybe 8" or 10" long.
I have some of that stuff around here, and once did temporarily super glue a length of it atop that grooved top strap of a S&W 60 snubby, believe it or not. It takes very little to hold something that lightweight on the gun under recoil, especially atop frame vs end of barrel, it has so very little mass. (such was the hypothesis anyway) Glows real well, for such as point shooting, quite a bit of length to gather UV and all that.
Looked like it actually might work, though I never did actually shoot it. Would have had to sneak into the gun range in the dark of the moon to avoid being laughed off the planet, and fiber optic doesn't function in the dark of the moon, you know.
Other than that, shucks, it just might have been the pert near perfect MHI bug ??
If you are willing to tread into the way-out weirdness of "nobody would ever do this", they do sell that "fiber optic" rod stock cheap in hobby shops, bright colors and diameters of choice (for model builders), comes in like six or ten packs of rods maybe 8" or 10" long.
I have some of that stuff around here, and once did temporarily super glue a length of it atop that grooved top strap of a S&W 60 snubby, believe it or not. It takes very little to hold something that lightweight on the gun under recoil, especially atop frame vs end of barrel, it has so very little mass. (such was the hypothesis anyway) Glows real well, for such as point shooting, quite a bit of length to gather UV and all that.
Looked like it actually might work, though I never did actually shoot it. Would have had to sneak into the gun range in the dark of the moon to avoid being laughed off the planet, and fiber optic doesn't function in the dark of the moon, you know.
Other than that, shucks, it just might have been the pert near perfect MHI bug ??
I can't tell much from the picture, and a serial number would help, but it appears to be a pre-war, "long action" .38 Military & Police - and those aren't junk unless they have been abused into the ground.
If the revolver is sound and in good mechanical condition, I would (or have a gunsmith) completely disassemble, inspect, clean and lubricate the revolver to determine evactly what you have. If nothing else the parts are worth more then $75.00 so you made a good deal.
Next I would follow Tuner's suggestions while I was looking for a new barrel and a set of stocks. A used barrel should cost in the $50.00 ballbark. Acceptable stocks no more then $25.00. I wouldn't worry about the finish.
If you make this a project gun, for around $275 - $300 (including the original cost) you may have a revolver with the finest double-action trigger pull ever to come out of the Springfield factory, along with hand craftsmanship that is long-gone today.
If I had run across the same revolver for the same price I would have ran, not walked.
If the revolver is sound and in good mechanical condition, I would (or have a gunsmith) completely disassemble, inspect, clean and lubricate the revolver to determine evactly what you have. If nothing else the parts are worth more then $75.00 so you made a good deal.
Next I would follow Tuner's suggestions while I was looking for a new barrel and a set of stocks. A used barrel should cost in the $50.00 ballbark. Acceptable stocks no more then $25.00. I wouldn't worry about the finish.
If you make this a project gun, for around $275 - $300 (including the original cost) you may have a revolver with the finest double-action trigger pull ever to come out of the Springfield factory, along with hand craftsmanship that is long-gone today.
If I had run across the same revolver for the same price I would have ran, not walked.
A barrel can be found for $10-$25. The cost for a smith to swap it is $100-$150 making the total too much to invest.
I faced this problem about 9 years ago when I spotted a 1942 Victory Model in 38 Special in a local pawn shop. Had a bulged barrel and the owner could not sell it. It was tagged at $100 and he said make an offer. I mumbled something about $60 and he immediately accepted.
I found a 5" barrel on ebay for $5. Disassembled the gun and soaked frame/barrel assembly in penetrating oil for 24 hours. Used a proper punch to drive out barrel retaining pin (came out slick as a whistle). Used two pieces of 1x2 pine to sandwich the barrel in a large bench vise. Crushed the barrel into the wood under pressure for a tight fit and grip. Used a large hammer handle through the cylinder window (right up tight behind the forcing cone to lessen chance of twisting frame and I left the side plate in place to give strength to the frame) and it unscrewed with gentle pressure.
Replacement barrel spun into place without a hitch. Anticipated needing some file work to establish barrel/cylinder gap but there was no need. I lucked out and the barrel snugged into place with the sight at TDC and a nice .004" B/C gap. Getting the pin back in was a bear. Worst and most time consuming part of the whole project. Took about 30 minutes of tweaking and trying before I got it in. Total cost was $5 for the used barrel. Total time was about 90 minutes (with 30 being spent fiddling with that damn pin).
Everybody wants to say you can't swap a S&W barrel at home like this. Nonsense. It can be done if you are careful. I figured for the $60 I had in the gun it was worth a try.
Here's my $65 Victory Model. Started as a 4" gun but the replacement barrel is 5" and like this length. Shoots and functions just fine.
I faced this problem about 9 years ago when I spotted a 1942 Victory Model in 38 Special in a local pawn shop. Had a bulged barrel and the owner could not sell it. It was tagged at $100 and he said make an offer. I mumbled something about $60 and he immediately accepted.
I found a 5" barrel on ebay for $5. Disassembled the gun and soaked frame/barrel assembly in penetrating oil for 24 hours. Used a proper punch to drive out barrel retaining pin (came out slick as a whistle). Used two pieces of 1x2 pine to sandwich the barrel in a large bench vise. Crushed the barrel into the wood under pressure for a tight fit and grip. Used a large hammer handle through the cylinder window (right up tight behind the forcing cone to lessen chance of twisting frame and I left the side plate in place to give strength to the frame) and it unscrewed with gentle pressure.
Replacement barrel spun into place without a hitch. Anticipated needing some file work to establish barrel/cylinder gap but there was no need. I lucked out and the barrel snugged into place with the sight at TDC and a nice .004" B/C gap. Getting the pin back in was a bear. Worst and most time consuming part of the whole project. Took about 30 minutes of tweaking and trying before I got it in. Total cost was $5 for the used barrel. Total time was about 90 minutes (with 30 being spent fiddling with that damn pin).
Everybody wants to say you can't swap a S&W barrel at home like this. Nonsense. It can be done if you are careful. I figured for the $60 I had in the gun it was worth a try.
Here's my $65 Victory Model. Started as a 4" gun but the replacement barrel is 5" and like this length. Shoots and functions just fine.
BHP FAN
Member
Old Fuff nailed it. that's going to be a sweet pistola. that's got potential!
BHP FAN
Member
NICE gun, Saxon Pig!
OK, there seems to be some misunderstanding here. By "tight," I mean there is little to no end play, and my smallest feeler, .006 will not come close to entering the cylinder gap. Seriously, I really don't need to pay someone to rebarrel an M&P. It's not that big of a task. Not as easy as the Vaqueros I did for the family, but not that difficult, and I'm sure as hell not sending a 75 dollar beater to Bowen. It is what it is, a nice tight M&P for less than the cost of a Hi-point/raven/davis/lorcin/jennings....
sixgunner455
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I'd have jumped all over that gun at $75. Too much good you can do with/to it to even think about parting it out or selling it at a gun buyback.
Love Kframes. Got two right now, and if I see one like that, for a price like that, I'll have three.
Love Kframes. Got two right now, and if I see one like that, for a price like that, I'll have three.
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