Some Recent Work

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StephanFowler

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Joined
Sep 30, 2008
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Location
Acworth, Ga
Been really busy lately, haven't had much time to hang out.

Thought someone might like to see some recent pieces I've completed


Steel: 1095
Thickness: 3/8 In
Blade: 9 In
O/A: 15 In
Grind: Flat
Finish: Satin w/ Hamon
Fittings: Hot Blued Carbon Steel
Handle: Custom Twist pattern from Shadetreee Phoenelics
Sheath: Leather

jurtfinal_1.jpg



jurtfinal_2.jpg




Steel: 1095
Thickness: 3/16 In
Blade: 11 In
O/A: 17 In
Finish: Highly Polished Hamon
Fittings: 416 Stainless
Handle: Maccassar Ebony
Sheath: Leather




jdrafflefinal_1.jpg



jdrafflefinal_2.jpg



jdrafflefinal_3.jpg



jdrafflefinal_4.jpg


Kind of a crappy picture but i didn't have any good shots with the sheath
jdrafflefinal_5.jpg



These are an order for a Dealer
Standard specs are:

Steel: 1095
Thickness: 3/16 In
Blade: 7 In
Finish: Satin with Hamon
3/16 SS Corby Bolts and 1/4" Thong hole
Sheath: Leather

Then, from Left to Right
#1
O/A: 12 In
Handle: Green Canvas Micarta with finger reliefs
Blade Shape - Recurve with false edge

#2
O/A: 12 In
Handle: Black Canvas Micarta with finger reliefs
Blade Shape - Drop Point

#3
O/A: 13 In
Handle: Ghost Green G10 with black liners
Blade Shape - Drop Point

#4
O/A: 12 In
Handle: Fiddled Maple
Blade Shape - Clipped point

#5
O/A: 12 In
Handle: Cocobolo
Blade Shape - Clipped point with a False edge

horizonod_1.jpg


horizonod_6.jpg


horizonod_7.jpg
 
Very nice working knives. As BHP FAN wrote: "no stupid fantasy blades, these!" I most heartily agree; I especially liked the fiddleback maple #4. Very well done.
 
Freakin' Sweet!

Love the 'jade' G-10 and fiddled maple.

What dealer is it? Are these already spoken-for? That "Ghost Green" is just hollerin' out to me.
 
Not only are they pretty, they're properly balanced!

Stephen is the rare combination of bladesmith and martial artist with a true artist's eye.

CWL, he can make another for you. Just PM him and send money.
 
I really like that top one, I should say all of them are very nice but that top one makes me want to go hog doggin.
 
thanks all,

I would be happy to point ppl to the dealer if they like but that is likely more properly handled through PM

afaik none of them are spoken for yet.

as far as spine thickness, I "personally" prefer a thin spine for "most" knives, but there is a proper design for everything.

HSO, you would LOVE to swing that subhilt. it sings
 
Lovely! I've only just started fiddling with trying to make a knife from "nothing", and I'm very interested in at least trying to make my first attempt balanced. I've only just annealed the metal, and am doing some more research before I proceed.

Is there a 'formula' to properly 'balancing' a blade? What needs to be done?
 
Caimlas -

to some extent balance is subjective, for a hunting/skinning knife I like the point of balance to be on my index finger. For a cutting bowie I like the POB to be .75" up from the guard (effectively 1.5" from my index finger) for a General use big knife I want POB right at the guard (about .5" from my index finger)

from that point there are several considerations to achieving the balance that you desire.

some tricks that help

Fittings -placement, material, thickness

handle material - wood, bone, micarta - some weigh more than others

Blade shape and thickness (HUGE can o' worms this one)

tang - Full, Tapered, Stick, Mortised, Frame, lots more options




so basically, the answer is "it depends"

helpful huhh
 
I pretty much follow Stephen's balance rule. Fighter balance should be right on the front of the guard unless the design is a big knife and then I like the balance 3 fingers in front of the guard. Choppers with a balance between 4 and 6 fingers in front of the guard feel good to me. I like utility knives to balance on the index finger.

Like Stephen said, "It depends".
 
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