I bought a new SP101 yesterday and when I went to shoot it today the .357 shells were very tough to eject. I had to bang the ejector rod on the table to get the shells out. Both my reloads and factory .357 were difficult to eject. I cleaned the cylinder holes and tested it with the sells that were already shot and they still seem tough to eject, I can eject the shells with my hand but its not easy. Is this normal for an SP101.
SP101 & sticky extraction
- Thread starter badbart
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wow6599
Member
No, it's not normal. Spent cases come out with an easy push on the ejector rod and unfired cartridges fall out if I turn the gun upside down (I have a 3" SP101).
Call Ruger.
Call Ruger.
Wolfeye
Member
My SP101 has never had that issue, but I've heard of Ruger .454's doing that. I've heard of it being attributed to too-hot handloads, dirty brass, and cylinder bores that are too tight. If you find out it's the latter, you should be able to get the factory to repair it for you.
I know that .38's eject a little more easily out of mine than .357's do. You could also try ejecting some nickel-plated shells and see if you have the same issue.
I know that .38's eject a little more easily out of mine than .357's do. You could also try ejecting some nickel-plated shells and see if you have the same issue.
WNC Seabee
Member
If there are no shells loaded, does the ejector operate OK, or does it take force to work the ejector even when empty? If that's the case, then you likely have a bent ejector rod. Send it off to Ruger for a fix.
jad0110
Member
I'd try some other factory 38 and 357 loads before drawing any conclusions. I had a Taurus 66 that would eject everything flawlessly except Winchester SuperX .357 Magnum. Those cases had to be tapped out with a small hammer and a dowel rod. Sometimes it is just ammo related.
If you continue to get sticky extraction with clean chambers, then it is highly likely the chambers are too tight. In which case, Ruger should be able to solve the problem without too much trouble.
If you continue to get sticky extraction with clean chambers, then it is highly likely the chambers are too tight. In which case, Ruger should be able to solve the problem without too much trouble.
buck460XVR
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......good way to bend your ejector rod. Better to use a screwdriver(carefully), brass cleaning rod or a wooden dowel. As was already suggested, I'd try some other factory loads. I'd also check for roughness on the inside of the cylinder holes. Was there excess oil left in the cylinders before you shot? Do you use a additive with your tumbling media, like Nu-Finish? Both of these will leave a residue when heated by firing that can make extraction difficult. Sometimes polishing the inside of the cylinders holes with a brass cleaning brush on a cordless drill will help. If the gun is new, and the problem continues with other factory ammo, I'd contact Ruger.
Chuck Perry
Member
Have you fired alot of 38's? The shorter case leaves fouling in the chambers where the longer 357 cases will come in contact with it. With enough firing, this buildup can cause issues using the longer rounds.
bsms
Member
If you can handle the recoil - and most can with the SP101 - then full magnum gives you some extra power over a 38+P. From what I've seen in factory ammo offerings, it looks like hot 38+P and typical 357 SD ammo are very close - 38+P with a 158 grain bullet going 1000 fps, and 357 running it around 1200.
SD ammo is a match between bullet construction and expected velocity, and I'd guess the 357 would give you a little better expansion and thus a slightly bigger wound channel - on average. I also suspect the difference in terms of stopping power is very slight, although I prefer 357 in 3" or longer barrels.
I've never had factory cases get that stuck on extraction. Maybe once in a while a bit hard with one or two cases out of six, but nothing cleaning wouldn't solve. So I'd call Ruger & let them figure out the fix. A revolver shouldn't need to avoid certain brands of ammo - that is a semi-auto problem. When I buy a revolver, I expect it to work with just about anything I buy.
What I wouldn't do is any shade tree gunsmithing, since Ruger could then blame you and refuse to help. The gun will last you a lifetime - take a bit of extra time now and let Ruger make it right for the rest of your life!
SD ammo is a match between bullet construction and expected velocity, and I'd guess the 357 would give you a little better expansion and thus a slightly bigger wound channel - on average. I also suspect the difference in terms of stopping power is very slight, although I prefer 357 in 3" or longer barrels.
I've never had factory cases get that stuck on extraction. Maybe once in a while a bit hard with one or two cases out of six, but nothing cleaning wouldn't solve. So I'd call Ruger & let them figure out the fix. A revolver shouldn't need to avoid certain brands of ammo - that is a semi-auto problem. When I buy a revolver, I expect it to work with just about anything I buy.
What I wouldn't do is any shade tree gunsmithing, since Ruger could then blame you and refuse to help. The gun will last you a lifetime - take a bit of extra time now and let Ruger make it right for the rest of your life!
If you fire .38 Specials (especially those with lead bullets) they will leave fouling in the front of the chamber. Then fire .357 Magnums without first cleaning the chambers, and the results are usually what you are describing. Clean the chambers, and then start with the Magnums first when you go to the range next time and see what happens.
If this isn't the answer, your revolver may have tight or slightly tapered chambers. Return the revover to Ruger, and a few minutes with a finishing chamber reamer will do the trick.
Manufacturers change out reamers when they get worn (resulting in tight chambers) but the last cylinders being made before the reamers are replaced tend to have chambers on the small side.
If this isn't the answer, your revolver may have tight or slightly tapered chambers. Return the revover to Ruger, and a few minutes with a finishing chamber reamer will do the trick.
Manufacturers change out reamers when they get worn (resulting in tight chambers) but the last cylinders being made before the reamers are replaced tend to have chambers on the small side.
Legionnaire
Contributing Member
Hmmm. No, it's not normal. If this is a brand new gun, I'm with Old Fuff and suggest you send it back to Ruger for a checkup.
I'm a big fan of Ruger revolvers, and have had nothing but good luck with them thus far. But a friend bought a brand new SP101 less than a year ago, and it had a few problems that Ruger fixed up smartly when he sent it in for service. He was happy that Ruger took care of him promply, but I was disappointed that he had problems, especially since he bought his SP101 after handling mine. Really sorry to hear you're having problems, too. But Ruger's CS has a great reputation, so I'd give 'em a call.
I'm a big fan of Ruger revolvers, and have had nothing but good luck with them thus far. But a friend bought a brand new SP101 less than a year ago, and it had a few problems that Ruger fixed up smartly when he sent it in for service. He was happy that Ruger took care of him promply, but I was disappointed that he had problems, especially since he bought his SP101 after handling mine. Really sorry to hear you're having problems, too. But Ruger's CS has a great reputation, so I'd give 'em a call.
Hondo 60
Member
From reading all the posts here it sounds like your chambers are a bit tight. Do you have a calipers that can read an inside diameter? If so, check out all the cylinders in several places (to make sure they are perfectly round) & then call Ruger & see what it's supposed to be.
You may find it needs repair, then again, you may find that some guns just don't like some ammo. A different brand/projectile may solve the issue.
You may find it needs repair, then again, you may find that some guns just don't like some ammo. A different brand/projectile may solve the issue.
If it was a used gun I would say fouling in the cylinder from firing .38's without proper cleaning. First, I would try giving the cylinder a good cleaning and see if that helps the situation.. If that is not the case, then I would definitely have it corrected by Ruger.
captain awesome
Member
a friend of mine had a similar problem. His was on a colt python 357. turned out their was a bur in one of the chambers, and he did what you described "banging it on a table" now he has a bur and a bent extractor rod. send it to be fixed before you have more problems arise from rough handling the gun.
I think at this point it would be best to quit pounding and call Ruger's Customer Service Department. Instructions should be in the manual that came with the gun. I suspect that when they test fired it they happened to use one or more of the several good chambers.
While sending it in is a pain in the backside, it shouldn't be gone long, and they will give the revolver a complete going over to discover anything else that might be wrong, but you haven't detected. Thus the returned gun may well be better then one that's new.
While sending it in is a pain in the backside, it shouldn't be gone long, and they will give the revolver a complete going over to discover anything else that might be wrong, but you haven't detected. Thus the returned gun may well be better then one that's new.
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