SP101, Trigger & Hammer Shims

[Harry-0]

Has anyone installed trigger & hammer shims in his SP101? Results? Did Ruger "tech support" have any words of advise?

Mine is relative new, roughly 100 rounds through the "pipe!" The trigger could be a tad bit smoother and I know that will come in time. I will probably apply the old addage; "aint broke, don't fix-it!!" Great piece, wouldn't part with it!! Thanks

 

[Harry-0]

Add to "Trigger & Hammer" shims posting:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rFX6lFI79kE

 

[788Ham]

I took my SP 101 .357 to a smith north of town, had him deburr the casting frame burrs. The smith then stoned the hammer and trigger parts, put in #12 lb. spring instead of the factory#14 .lb spring, lubed it, and was ready to go. This revolver is the smoothest one I own shooting DA, other than my Python. All of this stoning and spring replacement cost me $65 OTD. Shim if you like, but I left mine to a professional.

 

[tightgroup tiger]

I agree with 788 Ham.
In fact, from his advise to me in another post, I took my sp101 to a gun smith and had them do the same as he described to mine. It cost me $68,00 out the door for the springs and trigger job.

Mine is also the smoothest DA I own. My first target I shot with it before the work was done was probably a 6"group at only 7 yds.
The first 6 shots after the work was done were 6 bulleyes at 7 yd as it should be.

Thank you for that Ham.

 

[Giterboosted]

I did all the aforementioned AND shims and really it just made it feel more solid, didn't do much for trigger pull I wouldn't say, just kept parts from wiggling side to side a little bit, but then again I'm a little OCD about that stuff

 

[Drail]

On just about any Ruger DA you have to remove all of the boogers that Ruger leaves in there. They only debur the castings enough to make assembly possible. Inside are lots of metal shavings and slivers. A lot of the small parts will have rough bearing surfaces on them. A small white Arkansas stone will do wonders. This will give you smooth. The shims will give you consistency in the pull. Most Ruger revolver's hammer/frame gap can use some shim work for solid repeatable lockup. If there is still any creep remaining (those lawyers like a deep sear engagement for safety) then it needs to go on a good revolversmith's bench to have the hammer hooks recut. Ruger designs and builds very high quality guns but they don't spend a lot of time on debur and polish except for the exterior of the frame/cylinder and barrel. But you have everything you need to make a very slick heavy duty revolver. The result will be worth the effort. On an SP 101 don't try to go with a very light spring set up. The lighter you spring the trigger linkage the slower the trigger reset will be. In DA shooting that is not good. One of the reasons Jerry Miculek is able to do what he does is that his guns have heavier than stock springs in them. He can move his finger faster than the trigger will reset with stock springs. If you're having to wait for the trigger to catch up it imposes a speed limit. Dry fire until your hand gives up. Build new muscles.

 

[Zaydok Allen]

The trigger smoothed out on mine quite a bit with just dry firing.

 

[Just One Shot]

On my wife's I packed the moving parts with some Mother's Mag Polish, loaded it with snap caps and did some dry firing to help it along with the break in. Afterwards I disassembled it, did a detailed cleaning and changed the springs. Now it has a nice smooth trigger pull.

 

[slimpickens]

HarryO, the sp101 is one of the easiest revolvers to do a trigger job. I didn't use any shims, just replaced the spring kit I got from brownells, and it is smooth as can be. Very simple, just google--- "Ruger SP101 Trigger Job Guide", by Kevin Wilson. It will work!!
My sp101 in .38 special, and my sp101 in .357 are the easiest shooting guns that I have in both single and double action. For it's worth.

 

[hdbiker]

My SP101 has an easy 2,000 rounds threw it,mostly cast .357's and .38's.I like it just the way it is. biker

 

[Drail]

For what it's worth, replacing springs is NOT a "trigger job". No way. Not even close. Dry firing helps build up the muscles in your fingers MUCH more than it does anything to reduce the pull weight of the gun. It is an old wive's tale. I know most people believe it works but if you actually measure the pull with an accurate gauge you would be surprised. Spring kits will only reduce the hammer's striking force and slow down trigger reset. Neither of which constitute a "trigger job". If you want to spring your gun lighter than the factory did be my guest but please don't call it a "trigger job".

 

[Remllez]

Just stone the rough bits and lube it well....The shims are a pain in the arse when you disassemble/reassemble the gun.

 

[slimpickens]

Drail, if your comment about springs was concerning my post, I didn't make myself clear. Note the article from Kevin Wilson, and there is another I used more from SP101 IBOK. I certainly understand that springs alone is not a "trigger Job", and I did not mean to give that impression.
But after taking the trigger assembly completely apart, stoning the parts, and clearing all burrs, and I forget what else, I couldn't ask for a sweeter trigger in both single and double action. My revolver left a great deal to be desired from the factory, but after the work above mentioned was completely, I saw no need for shims at all. At least that was only my experience, and that's all I have to go on.
As concerning springs, the duo that I put in my revolvers have never caused light strikes, have never failed to reset, and suit me to a tee. However, I am not a competition shooter, so your point about Jerry Miculek is well taken. I was only giving my results for the work I did.