Spare Parts Kit- AR-15

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I did a search but didn't find anything.

I keep a set of Glock parts handy, not because they really ever break, but because I ended up acquiring a lot of spare parts while doing work for folks.

If I was to make a "Glad-Pac" (coined by a friend of mine who said those will be the parts you'll be glad you had) for an AR-15, what should I include?

I'm thinking a firing pin, firing pin retaining pin, ejector, ejector roll pin, ejector spring, extractor, extractor spring, extractor retaining pin. Toss in a replacement trigger assembly and associated springs.

I've only had one AR-15 go belly up. That was a trigger spring issue.

What else breaks or what parts have you lost?
 
I'd say just have a new bolt carrier with a completely assembled bolt...

That seems to be something in that set up that craps the bed.... Maybe a broken shell extractor...
 
Gas rings are the parts that wear out the most, you should keep at least three or four sets of three on hand.
An ejector assembly with pin
An extractor assembly with a couple spare pins and a couple spare springs.
A cam pin
A firing pin, a couple or three of these if you are one of the guys who insist on using a firing pin as a rudimentary punch.
Three or four firing pin retainer pins, this is the part that seems to become lost or hoplessly bent up the most frequent.
Most of these parts you will, or may, need because you end up losing the part on the floor or ground.
Except for those gas rings and a very occasional broken extractor spring these parts actually hold up very well.

A spare trigger and hammer spring are nice for just in case, trigger group parts rarely go south.

A spare bolt and carrier are nice but unless you intend on shooting 5000 rounds or more a year from your rifle, you probably won't need these and the unit can be pricey for a good replacement set.

Get a 1/16" or 3/32" mini pin punch and keep this with your cleaning gear, don't use the firing pin as a punch.
 
Gas rings are the parts that wear out the most, you should keep at least three or four sets of three on hand.
An ejector assembly with pin
An extractor assembly with a couple spare pins and a couple spare springs.
A cam pin

The nice thing about a spare bolt is that is replaces all of these things at once and is fast to swap out (if you happen to be in a class or match and don't have a lot of downtime before the next run). You don't have to diagnose the problem extensively - just swap the new bolt and it will fix all those areas and you can worry about diagnosis when you have the time.
 
Looks like a good list.

Notice that a couple of guys hit on a good point.....most problems are likely to involve the bolt and or bolt carrier and if in a hurry just swap out the whole thing and look to fix the problem later.

Both in the Infantry and Artillery I found that troops most often lost the firing pin retaining pin followed by the extractor pin and extractor spring.

This was usually in the field but sometimes even in barracks. Nothing like finding a firing pin retaining pin in a crack in the floor and having to go through two platoons worth of M-16A1 rifles to find out who lost it and what they did to get it past the Armorer.

Of course the best replacement part is a complete rifle.

You asked what I have seen broken on and AR type rifle so.....

Flash hider (old three prong) also bird cage lost.

Gas block /front sight loose, canted, bent, or broken

Handgaurds cracked left and right

DUst cover latch missing

Dust cover spring broken

Dust cove,r pin, and spring missing (not sure how he managed that)

Upper bent and or cracked on the carrying handle/ rear sight area damaging rear sight

Lower cracked at the rear where the buffer tube screws in.

Buffer tube cracked or broken completely though

rear take down pin plunger and spring missing as result of above

Rear takedown pin missing see above two

Drain screw in Butt missing resulting in or threatening last two above and loss of stock

Butt stock chipped, burned, or hard butt plate and associated butt trap door cracked or missng

Grip screw and grip missing and selector spring and plunger and selector unreliable as a result and indanger off being lost during field dissassembly

Lower cracked at front take down hinge

besides loss of extractor and associated parts , broken extractor (Sometimes binds action well and truely good)

Cracked and shattered bolts ( on well used M-16A1s)

Barrel bent noticably

It may be possible I have seen a few more M-16A1 rifles and been responsible for small units issue of such than most folks so do not be alarmed but I saw and delt with all of the above in my first three year hitch and some again later.

Hopefully you will avoid all this long list by not being a sloppy soldier, staying out of places you might get shot at, and not firing a bazillion rounds of ball, tracer, and even more blanks in all sorts of weather while using a rifle perhaps ill treated by five to twelve previous "owners", but you did ask what we have personally seen break on an AR.

My infantry squad carried basically all the parts you mentioned in our "squad can," an ammo can that held parts, additional cleaning gear, a couple of spare magazines, boot polish & brush, a spare razor or three, cammo sticks, and a hand mirror. The can was heavy and non ergonomic and had square corners that always seemed to find a tender body part to bash so it was good not to be on the Squad leaders Poor Performing Private List. Those parts you mentioned (and yes we carried multiple firing pins retaining pins, extractor pins and springs) came in very handy at times.

Sorry if this list upsets the AR-philes, but "this is true, I saw it myself, I was there" really is true this time.

-Bob Hollingsworth
 
I think the best spare parts kit would be:
complete bolt
firing pin
cam pin
retaining pin
(these 4 things will all go in a miad grip if you have one)
buffer spring

If you've got more money/room I'd expand with:
extra springs and roll pins (perhaps even a whole LPK if you've got the cash)
charging handle
bolt rebuilt parts like rings + springs
 
You can buy spare parts kits from different vendors. Midwayusa.com has a small one for $20, and Cheaperthandirt.com has a more comprehensive one for around $35.

http://www.cheaperthandirt.com/ARR076-3343-2701.html

In addition, I would add a complete bolt.

I can't access ARFCOM here at work, but there's a thread stickied over there in the AR disscussion forum on just this topic. One of the instructors at a three-day carbine course talks about what he sees break consistantly.
 
Spare bolt, lower parts kit, and magazines.

Replace gas rings every few thousand rounds as part of maintenance.
 
I carry a spare bolt. I've never needed it, but I gave it to my buddy at a match when his rifle went down.

I also carry a spare firing pin, firing pin retaining pin, and cam pin in my MIAD pistol grip.

I've replaced one set of gas rings. The test is if the bolt falls out of the bolt carrier (cam pin removed) under it's own weight.

Bolts do break with ARs. The publications I've read suggested that you shouldn't be surprised if the bolt breaks once the round count is over 10k. They also had bolts that lasted in excess of 20k rounds. The kicker is that there wasn't any good way to know when the bolts were going to fail.

For the AK I just keep a spare firing pin and extractor handy.

BSW
 
THIS is why i became more of an AK guy than an AR guy, because all the AR experts always seem to recommend keeping practically an entire AR in loose parts around for repairs. I like my ARs, my car-15 was the first gun i ever bought, over the counter in California way back when i was a Marine at Pendleton, but i don't trust 'em like i trust my AK's.:D
 
I can't access ARFCOM here at work, but there's a thread stickied over there in the AR disscussion forum on just this topic. One of the instructors at a three-day carbine course talks about what he sees break consistantly.

Link

Pat_Rogers said:
What we see go down at class falls into these catagories.

Wear items
Specifically, extractors and extractor springs.
Bolt rings
Buffer springs

Parts guns
Parts ain't parts. If you get your stuff from gun shows and garage sales, don't expect quality
I had a guy in a recent class bragging on T1 that he built his carbine for $400 and "it is just as good as..." That feternoon it wouldn't ectract. The extractor was worn snooth and then re park'd; the extractot spring was flat (no joke) and the insert was just crumbs.
We replaced it all.
On T3 his bolt broke in half.

Hobby guns
Generally ok, but non MPI bolts may not last (we see less problems with breaking lately) and some of the new guns may not work at all. These should not have to be shot in- they should work out of the box.
Chambers are often 223, no matter what is marked on the barrel. When the gun gets hot, extraction slows down.

Worn out guns
Parts wear. Sometimes the guns are just plain shot out- more often, military guns.

Think MEAL
Magazines- serviceable mags
Extractor- serviceable
Ammunition- quality ammo, not garbage
Lube- generous lubrication

If you have that, most of the guns- even some of the very low end guns- might do well for a class or more.

On the other hand, some of the companies make absolutely great guns. They will last a long time.
 
Yeah ak rifles are great,,,,clean them with gasoline, lube them with motor oil,,,problem is, at least for me, I haven't seen one yet that will place shots on a kill zone past 250 meters.
If you do get shots in the kill zone it is luck and not skill that put them there.
An AR15/M16 will do this.

I have seen all the things go south on M16A1 rifles that kBob has.
The A2 and up versions are much, much better rifles.
 
because all the AR experts always seem to recommend keeping practically an entire AR in loose parts around for repairs.

that's because AR experts actually shoot their guns
it's also because they NEED their guns to work. where's that list of English-speaking militaries and LEO agencies fielding AKs again? oh...
 
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