Sporterized Mosin-Nagant owner questions?

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Bowhunter57

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I've owned a Finnish M39 Mosin-Nagant and it shot 180gr. S&B ammo in a 1 1/4" group at 100 yards with open sights. I would imagine with a scope and some good reloads, that 1/2" groups wouldn't be out of the question.

Just the same, I'd like to hear from those of you that have scoped and reload for your Mosin-Nagant.

* What's the accuracy groups at 200 yards or more?
* What bullet size/weight are you reloading?
* Do you hunt with this rifle?

Thank you, Bowhunter57
 
Do-Not-Permanently-Modify-That-Rifle-Please! M39's are getting harder and harder to find. If your going to scope it, get a forward mount that non permanently replaces the rear sight.
 
Do what you want with it. Never understood why some people think it is sacrilege to improve an old gun, especially one that isn't worth much.
Make it yours and enjoy!

I went with a reproduction PU 3.4x scope on my 91/30 and it works very well.
I'm running 180 grain bullets with53.0 grains of H4831 and getting 4-5" groups at 200 yards.

Nagantsniper.jpg
 
Relax Jackal, from the title I'd say that it was already sporterized anyway.

Bowhunter, I've seen some references to variations in the bore land and groove diameters. So it's probably worth slugging the bore before you select a bullet style. I had assumed all along that it needed the same .312 size bullets as the .303British. But I keep seeing references to both the .312's and .308's depending on what the bore sizes are.

A black powder soft lead round ball up to around .45 size can be hammered into the muzzle with a wood or plastic mallet. Once it crushes away the sides start the slug down the bore with a wood dowel or stout cleaning rod and finish with pushing it out the chamber. You can then measure the groove and land diameters with a caliper and should be able to figure out what bullet size to work with.
 
BCRider said:
Relax Jackal, from the title I'd say that it was already sporterized anyway.

Bowhunter, I've seen some references to variations in the bore land and groove diameters. So it's probably worth slugging the bore before you select a bullet style. I had assumed all along that it needed the same .312 size bullets as the .303British. But I keep seeing references to both the .312's and .308's depending on what the bore sizes are.

A black powder soft lead round ball up to around .45 size can be hammered into the muzzle with a wood or plastic mallet. Once it crushes away the sides start the slug down the bore with a wood dowel or stout cleaning rod and finish with pushing it out the chamber. You can then measure the groove and land diameters with a caliper and should be able to figure out what bullet size to work with.
Click to expand...

That doesn't mean it couldn't be restored with the proper stock and fittings. If the barrel is already cut down, then go at it, but if everything is in tact other than the stock, it could be returned to its former glory.
 
Have fun.

I started with .308 bullets and they did not group well.

Mine had dark bore but always shot at least fair, even with steel cased surplus ammo. It has gotten better along as it was cleaned and shot. A lot of stuff comes out of the bore over time, a bronze brush and some time are recommended for best results. Maybe solvents that work on copper and gilding metal alloy chips. The steel core bullets common from Russia may wear into the barrel faster than USA source bullets without steel.

I load 125 grain bullets mostly, which are designed for 7.62X39 cartridge. They are .3105 in diameter if they come from Russia. Both .310 and .311 work okay in my rifle. These offer low recoil compared to 203 grain Bear or Wolf. I bought some JS Barnaul bullets from Wideners and they worked pretty well, were useful deer bullets. Also have used a lot of Hornady 123 and 125 grain bullets also made for 7.62X39.

Best results have been with Remington match 123 grain bullets that are solid jacketed and not for hunting, Lapua BRA$$, WLR primers, and about 42 grains of IMR 3031. Your results may differ and that is within a few grains of a max load in some manuals, I have shot a few with more powder than that but they did not group as well so I went back down. This is not information with stamp of approval from The High Road or any institution. You are on your own and proceed with caution.

I am making 180 grain loads now. They remind me a lot of 203 grain steel cased ammo at my shoulder. Nothing as good as the Remington match bullets yet for group sizes.

PPU or nny brass headstamp is a good product brass, comes from Serbia. If you do not want to invest in Lapua that is good enough to reload with although softer and won't last as long as Lapua. All boxer brass I've used has been okay, with Winchester headstamp discoloring a little fast. S & B is probably same maker but slightly better metal in their brass?

Have fun.
 
I am not a big time collector, but I would hope you would not "mess" with an M39. My opinion is that with these old, historic rifles one is more a caretaker than an owner. I have an M39 of relatively high value, it shoots surplus x54great and I would love a scope, but...

I suggest if you want to scope a mosin, get a mosin (russian), and go that route. The Russian is infinitely more common than the M39.

Others will have a vastly different opinion. The decision is yours.

Good luck.
 
Have scope on mine. It can go back to original.

The scope will help. It can be done in a way that allows a return to original form. There may be new rifles that are better but probably few as low expense and as good. The Russians made 12.5 million of them, there are enough originals around, although the shorter carbine versions are getting relatively scarce in original form.

Even the M44's with folding spike bayonets are not all that available anymore. It may finally happen to the 1891/30 rifles, but right now those are still pretty common.

I recommend you scope it if you plan on hunting with the M39. It will work better for you.
 
Do what you Want

Do what you want with your Mosin, as other have said there is a pretty good pile of them out there, and unless you are starting a collection what difference does it make, they are enjoyable. Unless you really like a scope, you probably don't need a scope for general shooting and hunting.

This past year I took a nice 140 pound doe at about 100 yards with one of my open site 91/30s. She went from standing to lying on her back with her feet in the air as soon as I put a 203 grain SP in her boiler room. 7.65 x54r is the only caliber I shoot that I don't reload for as I have quite a few spam cans of surplus around, and a hundred or so Brown Bear 203 gr SPs for the odd hunting trip.
 
Thank you, for the informative replies, gentlemen! :)

I have no intensions of putting the M39 on the chopping block, as it has too much history with the Sako markings on the action, crown stamps and all the metal parts have matching serial numbers. I purchased this rifle for $80 at a local gun show, about 8 years ago.

I would consider putting a synthetic stock on it and removing the rear sight to install a pinned sight block for a handgun scope.

Bowhunter57
 
Bowhunter, if you put a scope on the rear sight via a replacement mount then it's actually a "scout" mount scope you want. The scout scopes have a middle distance eye relief that's perfect for a rear sight mount. A handgun scope that close in will be TOO close and you'll get less than a full view. But the scout scopes are made for this sort of thing.
 
I use a Brass Stacker scope mount with an NCStar scout scope on my chopped down 91/30. This works great.

Brass Stacker scope mounts are see-through so you can continue to use your iron sights if you want to. They have scope mounts for the 91/30, the M38, M44 and the T53. If the rear sight of your M39 is the same as any of these models, then Brass Stacker would be a way to go.

I have reloaded with Sierra Pro-Hunter spitzer bullets in 180-grain .311 diameter, and in 150-grain, .311 and .308 diameters.

I've used H380, IMR 4895 and Accurate 2015 powders.

I'm new to reloading and mainly do it to save money on ammo, not to achieve maximum accuracy. If I aim for the black circle at 100 yards and hit it, I'm satisfied that I'm ready to handle the zombie apocalypse. I've been able to do this with these bullets and powders. My shots often group within 2 inches, but I haven't really kept track of this with every powder and bullet weight/diameter. As I said, if I can put a bullet somewhere in center mass, I'm content.

I don't hunt.
 
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