Sporterized (not bubbaed) K98

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WardenWolf

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Well, I recently picked up this nice piece, a sporterized K98. I bought it because I wanted a hunting rifle in 8mm, and while I'd never alter a historical piece myself, I have no qualms about using one that's been tastefully sporterized.

All the Nazi proof marks are intact, and all evidence indicates that the modifications were probably performed in the 1950s or 1960s. The bent-bolt modification is definitely old, as it shows a patina similar to the rest of the rifle. It has a very nice trigger.

The barrel, receiver, and floorplate / trigger section match. The bolt does not. The locking screws are present. Other than that, I don't know much about it.

Can someone help me figure out what year this thing was made? The barrel is stamped 41D201. I'm guessing that means it was manufactured in 1941, but I don't know.

Also, the 3-position safety refuses to go into the 3rd (left) position. It doesn't seem to be a huge deal, as that position just locks the bolt closed, and I have tried repeatedly and cannot get it to fire with the safety in the middle position (pulled the trigger, jolted it, etc.). I therefore have to conclude it's safe, and I just have to make do without this useless feature.

Sorry about the poor picture quality:

th_Mauser1.gif

th_MauserBolt.gif
 
Pic isnt showing up for me.... However, the date should be on the top of the receiver. There are typically 2 numbers, 38 = 1938 or 42 = 1942. If there are no dates present, you may need to look at the waffenampts and find out if there is a unique combination that will indicate when / where it was made...
 
Nice old school sporter. Should be fun to shoot. There were some aftermarket safeties that were built to clear the scope and only have two positions on the right - up and down. You may have one of those?
 
There are more Mauser variations than you can shake a stick at. To thoroughly research your rifle, you might take a look on this forum. It's dedicated to the Mauser in all it's variations and they have a tremendous amount of info.

http://mausercentral.com/forum/index.php?f=13

You're not required to join or anything, but they can definitely run down your serial number/history.
 
Looks like either a Fajen or Bishop stock, which means it is an older conversion, looks like a decent job on the bolt handle. If it won't group well I wouldn't hesitate to have it recrowned. As was stated you could add a low mount safety. One addition I added on mine that I strongly suggest is a Tubbs Speedlock firing pin http://www.davidtubb.com/speedlock-firing-pins-for-bolt-rifles . It really does increase lock time which of course makes the rifle easier to shoot well. On mine I also added a Gibbs detachable hunting magazine http://www.sporterexpress.com/Gibbs-Rifle-Co.-Mauser-98-Detachable-Magazine-Long-Action and eventually mine will get the Dakota 3 position safety http://www.sporterexpress.com/Dakota-Arms-3-Position-98-Mauser-Safety as I am not satisfied with the low mount two position that is on it now.

The info on the manufacturer would likely be found under the front scope mount. The Germans used a letter code and it was placed on the front receiver ring, pull the mount and you should be able to find it.

The barrel on mine was shortened to 22 inches and recrowned, it will easily shoot 1 1/2 inch group with cheap surplus and under an inch with BVAC http://www.cheaperthandirt.com/AMM851-1.html . I have started handloading for it yet but likely will...when you are alreading loading a couple dozen calibers what's one more?

Mine is a modern conversion...I don't think of it being a Bubba job but I did much of the work myself.

mauser7range-1.jpg
 
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The barrel on this one is in very nice shape. Shouldn't need any work done on it. But I'll definitely keep that in mind. I've got a Simmons 6-18x50 scope on the way for it, and I purchased a laser boresighter.
 
I am running an older Simmons Presidential on mine...it was one of the early 50mm scopes and works great. The PRVI 196 SP shoots well in mine and while it is more expensive than surplus it is cheaper than most commercial and no worries about it being corrosive.
 
I still have a case of Olympic 180 grain...shoot very well in my Hakim...should try it in the Mauser as well. I am sure I will end up handloading for it tho...been saving good brass. Curious to see how it does with a 200 grain SMK...
 
Hopefully my scope will come in this week and I can get this beauty out to the range and give her a workdown. It should be fun. I'll be putting in for elk and mule deer next year.
 
Thanks, Mariachi.

The knob on the end of the stock is unusual. You don't see that anymore. Scope comes on Thursday. Need to pick up some rings at the local gun store. We'll see how she shoots this weekend.
 
Read here...bottom of page 2 explains the proof you found..

http://www.ycgg.org/pdfpages/ww2/mauser-oberndorf.pdf

As for the floor plate it is probably being held in by a combination of dried oil gluing it in place and crud. Take the action out of the stock and use a heat gun on the floor plate to help loosen it. On mine it took pressure up on the button and repeated taps down from the inside of the mag well.

I think it's called a Shrenibel stock or something. Got kinda the same on my 8mm Husqvarna
Click to expand...

Proper term is Schnabel, it is the German word for beak...
 
Ah well. Looks like I'd have to remove the front scope base to get any more info, and I'd rather not do that as it's probably Loctited in and, regardless, I'd have to ensure it gets tightly reinstalled. Looks like this rifle gets to keep some of its mysteries, at least for now. I don't think it's a last-ditch model, though. Too well-machined.
 
But the article does tell you one thing..

In 1942 the waffenamt “135” proof appears on the “byf” 98k rifles. Mauser Oberndorf would use this waffenamt until production ceased in 1945.
Click to expand...

byf means it was made by Mauser Oberndorf AG... and while you don't know the exact year you know it was between 42 and 45... more than you knew before.
 
I have a K98 Sporter rifle (not a sporterized mil issue), and I'd like to install a buttplate that will absorb shock better than the stiff narrow buttplate that is on the rifle currently. Do you guys have any suggestions? Idealy, I'm looking for one that I can install via the two rear screws, not a rubber overlay.
Thanks guys
 
Called a Schnabel forend.

That the safety doesn't work properly to lock the bolt closed indicates one of two things.
* It, or the trigger sear, or the cocking piece was replaced and the safety doesn't fit the cocking piece anymore.
* Or it is all original and somebody stoned off too much of the cocking piece sear or trigger sear attempting to do a trigger job to hold the striker back fully where it belongs when cocked.

Either could result in an unsafe rifle, with the striker letting go when the bolt is slammed shut real hard, or the butt banged on the floor.

I'd get to the bottom of it & fix it if I were you.

rc
 
the rifle has potential.
i think a lot of wood needs to come off the back of the stock to look right with the schnable fore end. if you were to rasp the comb down then sweep the grip a little then swap the pad out with a old english you would be well on your way to a nice classic style sporter.
 
rcmodel said:
Called a Schnabel forend.

That the safety doesn't work properly to lock the bolt closed indicates one of two things.
* It, or the trigger sear, or the cocking piece was replaced and the safety doesn't fit the cocking piece anymore.
* Or it is all original and somebody stoned off too much of the cocking piece sear or trigger sear attempting to do a trigger job to hold the striker back fully where it belongs when cocked.

Either could result in an unsafe rifle, with the striker letting go when the bolt is slammed shut real hard, or the butt banged on the floor.

I'd get to the bottom of it & fix it if I were you.

rc
Click to expand...
I did all this trying to make it go off. I hit the butt hard on carpet, I shook it, I whacked it on the sides. I even hit the rear of the cocking piece with my hand. I couldn't make it fire with or without the safety on. I'm forced to conclude it's safe.

Mauser Central has info on what to do if the safety won't go to the 3rd position. I'm not going to do it, as it requires completely disassembly of the bolt and smoothing various sections, and all my testing and research indicates that this is a safe condition, if not optimal (but seriously, when would I ever actually use that function?).

I love this rifle. Absolutely a beautiful gun. This weekend I'll get it out and see what it can do. My scope comes in tomorrow, and I'll go get rings to fit it as well. I'm hoping to get away with medium rings, but it may require high rings.
 
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