spray on gun finish

[mustang_gt_350]

I was just wondering what you guys prefer. I was thinking about using either Gun-Kote from brownells, or their laquer spray on stuff. Out of those 2 wich is the best looking(im guessing this is with anything else on prep work makes the paint) and most durable?

Also if any one has any other spray on finish and would like to give their experiance with it i would be happy to consider it also.

thanks
andy

Mods Ps. I just realized i posted this in the rifle section not the gunsmith one. please move if needed

 

[Ian Sean]

I haven't used Gun Kote yet, I have used Brownells spray on baking lacquer though.

Made a tough durable finish on one of my FAL's. Still holding up quite well after 3 years.

Prep work is the key to these finishes, I sandblasted all parts and degreased everything well, sandblasting provides a great surface for the paint to stick to.

Oh and when you degrease it...degrease it again...when you bake the finish oil will still bleed out of it from nooks and crannies.

 

[DMK]

I use Gunkote from KGcoatings out of my airbrush. I'm note sure if it's exactly the same as the Brownell's stuff. I use the Brownell's Alumahyde II only for things that can't be baked.

The Gunkote is much tougher. I like the finish better too. Maybe it's because it's coming out of an airbrush instead of a rattlecan. I've done about a dozen guns with Gunkote and love it. They all look great.

im guessing this is with anything else on prep work makes the paint

Prep is always the key to painting. Read the directions carefully! Different colors use different temperatures and baking times. Degrease, degrease, then degrease some more. If you can't completely disassemble the gun, degrease, then bake at around 120 to let any greese or oils ooze out of the pins and screws, degrease again and repeat until it's completely dry. Paint does not stick to oil or cosmoline. Sand with 600 grit to give the paint a good surface to bite into. Sandblast metal parts. (except aluminum parts that have been anodized. Don't remove that protective finish, sand slightly and paint over it). Use Kphos on steel. Better yet, have the parts parkerized. Park is the best primer coat ever invented. Degrease and use latex gloves. Be fanatical about keeping the parts clean and oil free.

Prep is like 80% of the work.

Well, I repeated some of the advice Ian Sean gave. But it's worth repeating.

 

[usmcdoc14]

I like Duracoat.
http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=243908

and like everyone here has said, CLEAN everything well, bake it if you can and clean again.
I sandblasted everything with 70 grit aluminum oxide to give it a "tooth" for the paint to grab nicely to.

 

[mustang_gt_350]

Thanks for the input. I was thinking that prep work was very important but just wanted some advice from people that have experiance with this.

Thanks for the idea of heating and degreasing, i never thought about the heat brining out more oil and cosmoline.