Square Deal B vs XL-750 for new reloader

TacticalJanitor

TacticalJanitor

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I need some advice from those "in the know". After two weeks of obsessive Googling regarding the differences between a Dillon SDB and XL-750, I'm still having trouble deciding which to buy.

Over the last four years, I've been shooting straight-wall handgun cartridges exclusively. No doubt that I will someday get into rifles, but maybe it's too early to make allowances for a hobby I don't currently practice when choosing a loader? Historically, a 200-round practice session each week satisfies my needs and before COVID I was buying (and shooting) 10-15 thousand rounds a year of 9mm. As I'm sure you all know, it costs about three times that now (give or take).

Since taking up .38 special this year, I'm now spending over $.70 per round and I've had to cut my weekly round counts to compensate. It's just too expensive for my hillbilly budget. I need to start reloading.

I know that the SDB is pistol-only, and that would be OK for now. However, I'm also lazy and think the 750 would be better for high-volume reloading when I'm in the mood to do it. I intend to reload only to reduce my ongoing ammo costs and am prepared to absorb the cost of reloading gear to solve this problem over the long run. For example, I think I'd be more likely to load up a couple thousand rounds on a 750 (every other month) than I would be to spend one or two hours loading 200 rounds EVERY WEEK with a SDB.

Luckily, I can afford either press right now. Who wants to spend money they don't need to though..right?

As to loading workflow, my plan (based on Googling...no experience), is to dry-tumble with car wax, then go straight to the loader to deprime and size. I want fast, simple, and cheap (cost of reloading gear is excluded). As a defensive drill shooter, reliability is much more important to me than accuracy.

So, cost aside, for a new reloader that is very mechanically inclined, would an experienced person recommend that I start with a SDB and all the extras, or go straight to the 750 with a casefeeder (and bullet-feeder later)?

The way I see it, I could have several SDBs permanently setup for my main three calibers (.38, 9mm, .44 mag) and buy a bigger rifle setup later for "once in a while" caliber needs. Or, I could invest in the 750 and quick-change setups in order to load more rounds in a shorter amount of time.

What says the experts? Thanks.
 
I bought my XL750 after becoming interested in reloading. I had never even attempted to reload anything...ever...so it was all new to me. With the 750, I was up and making bullets within a few hours. The unit is simple, well built, precise and I have no complaints whatsoever. Also, Dillon has been excellent at answering my questions/support (not that I needed much).
Anyway - just my opinion. I have no experience with the Square D. I don't think you can go wrong with either choice, but the 750 is a newer model and has some nice things that the Square D doesn't.
Best of luck with your decision.
 
ManFromMontana said:
I bought my XL750 after becoming interested in reloading. I had never even attempted to reload anything...ever...so it was all new to me. With the 750, I was up and making bullets within a few hours. The unit is simple, well built, precise and I have no complaints whatsoever. Also, Dillon has been excellent at answering my questions/support (not that I needed much).
Anyway - just my opinion. I have no experience with the Square D. I don't think you can go wrong with either choice, but the 750 is a newer model and has some nice things that the Square D doesn't.
Best of luck with your decision.
Click to expand...

Good info. Can I ask a few question?

Do you have the case feeder on your 750? Do you happen to know how many handgun shells you can load at a "normal person" pace per hour? Do you have quick change plates or do you swap dies to change calibers? How long does either take to change over?
 
TacticalJanitor said:
How long does it take you to change your SDB from .45 to .38? How many can you realistically load per hour when keeping the pace pleasant?
Click to expand...
a long time! but if you buy complete tool heads it’s plug and play. You are golden.

let ask you. how many cartridges are you looking to load?
 
Mark_Mark said:
a long time! but if you but complete tool heads and plug and play. You are golden.

let ask you. how many cartridges are you looking to load?
Click to expand...

At the moment I'm only shooting .38 Special with 148g coated WC at ~800fps, .44 mag, and I'll certainly swing back to 9mm before long. Three at the minimum.
 
Mark_Mark said:
you already have dies I presume?
Click to expand...

Negative Sir! I've been buying all my ammo new. :( The good news is that I have saving all my brass for a couple of years.

I can say that I would have already ordered an SDB if it weren't for the fact that nearly all their proprietary dies are on backorder. As it happens, .38 special seems to be available if I order a new machine. Can't get .44 or 9mm though.

Since the 750 uses standard dies, it might make sense to go that route for that reason alone.
 
Another thought. On the 750, it seems that I would be able to put either a bullet feeder or a powder check on the extra station. How important is a powder check? Would be a good idea for a new reloader to have one?
 
TacticalJanitor said:
Negative Sir! I've been buying all my ammo new. :( The good news is that I have saving all my brass for a couple of years.

I can say that I would have already ordered an SDB if it weren't for the fact that nearly all their proprietary dies are on backorder. As it happens, .38 special seems to be available if I order a new machine. Can't get .44 or 9mm though.

Since the 750 uses standard dies, it might make sense to go that route for that reason alone.
Click to expand...
OK

SDB = factory setup for fast fun ammo, most people buy a whole different SDB for each they load

750XL = a never regret

Get the 750XL, buy once cry once. They literally resell for $100 less than retail
 
TacticalJanitor said:
Another thought. On the 750, it seems that I would be able to put either a bullet feeder or a powder check on the extra station. How important is a powder check? Would be a good idea for a new reloader to have one?
Click to expand...
YES! I have the $100 Dillion Powder check and it takes away a factor. Factor of not having to look in the case for powder
 
Mark_Mark said:
OK

SDB = factory setup for fast fun ammo, most people buy a whole different SDB for each they load

750XL = a never regret

Get the 750XL, buy once cry once. They literally resell for $100 less than retail
Click to expand...

This echos my thinking as well. The only sticking points are two. 1. Is the 750 really any faster for bulk loading? 2. Is it a headache to change calibers on a 750?
Mark_Mark said:
YES! I have the $100 Dillion Powder check and it takes away a factor. Factor of not having to look in the case for powder
Click to expand...

And I like the idea of that. Having had a squib recently, you could say that charge-level concerns me.
 
TacticalJanitor said:
This echos my thinking as well. The only sticking points are two. 1. Is the 750 really any faster for bulk loading? 2. Is it a headache to change calibers on a 750?


And I like the idea of that. Having had a squib recently, you could say that charge-level concerns me.
Click to expand...
progressive is a headache PERIOD. Can’t be drinking a cold beer and loading. and expensive but only at first. Good luck bud.

and get the 750XL if your money is right
 
I am currently loading on my Square Deal. I’m only loading for handguns now so I’m very happy with the SD. I load for .380, .38 Special, .357 Mag, 9MM, 40 and .45.

Changing dies and getting ready for a different caliber varies in time depending on what you are doing. If you leave the dies set up for one bullet style per caliber it takes less than 10 minutes at the most. If you were loading 9MM, then going to .38 Special and it was last set up for WC and now you want SWC, you have to factor changing the seating die and as always, adjusting the powder drop to a different powder and weight. Really not long for this change either assuming you have complete tool heads for each caliber.

I’m never in a big hurry when I start the process of reloading. Speed is not always your friend. I balance my scale before I get started. I do a test round to check overall length before I get started. I check to make sure I have enough powder and primers ready for loading my cases and the cases are the correct caliber. I make sure I have the right music going. Take your time and get it right. Either one will meet your needs.
 
I have a hard time recommending buying a progressive of any type for a new reloader. Im not saying it cant be done, Im just saying you have not only the learning curve of learning to reload, but you have the learning curve of the press itself.

That being said, the 750 is a fine and reliable press. A good way to approach setting up a progressive it just approach it like a single station. Get each station working on a single round, checking as you go, and once you have the press setup, then you can move onto to full progressive. The thing about a progressive? You can make alot of bad ammo in a hurry if you arent setup right.

The case feeder is worth every penny on a progressive. A bullet feeder is a distant second. You can easily load 400-500 per hour without a bullet feeder once you get into the swing of it. A powder check die isnt a bad idea, but you will develop a manual of arms as you learn to use one. I check every round I load on my progressive with my Mark One Eyeball for powder. For me its an unconscious act now. You are also less likely to load a squib on a progressive unless you run the powder drop dry, or it malfunctions, as the press generally needs to be run full stroke every round.

A pretty standard setup for a 5 station progressive is something like this:
Station 1: size and decap
Station 2: expander
Station 3: powder drop
Station 4: seater
Station 5: crimper

In order to add the check die or a bullet feeder you have to do one of a few things. You have to use a PTX expander in the powder drop, or you have to use a seater/crimper die. If you want to use a bullet feeder and a check die, you have to do both. Personally I think the PTX is easier to setup, especially with revolver cartridges that need a roll crimp. I do run a bullet feeder, so in my case I use a PTX in the powder drop and put it in station 2, put the bullet feeder in station 3, the rest is the same.

Dont discount having even a simple single stage press as well. Sometimes you need one.
 
TacticalJanitor said:
How long does it take you to change your SDB from .45 to .38? How many can you realistically load per hour when keeping the pace pleasant?
Click to expand...

First, I like my SDB, actually make that plural, SDB's.

But, I like to make sure I got powder in the case. Short cases like 9x19, 45 ACP, and 380 ACP, are easy to visually check that the powder charge made it into the case.

A 38 Special case is tall enough that it is difficult to see into with the small space of the SDB. There may be some alternate ways to look in the case but I have not taken the time to investigate.

I just moved my 38 Special loading to a different progressive press. So, I'd recommend the 750 for 38 Special.

I change cartridges on my SDB's by unbolting one from the bench and bolting in a different one. That is why I have three. They stay set up. It is a bit more expensive than just the change parts kit, but fewer headaches and less time.
 
Kaldor said:
I have a hard time recommending buying a progressive of any type for a new reloader. Im not saying it cant be done, Im just saying you have not only the learning curve of learning to reload, but you have the learning curve of the press itself.

That being said, the 750 is a fine and reliable press. A good way to approach setting up a progressive it just approach it like a single station. Get each station working on a single round, checking as you go, and once you have the press setup, then you can move onto to full progressive. The thing about a progressive? You can make alot of bad ammo in a hurry if you arent setup right.

The case feeder is worth every penny on a progressive. A bullet feeder is a distant second. You can easily load 400-500 per hour without a bullet feeder once you get into the swing of it. A powder check die isnt a bad idea, but you will develop a manual of arms as you learn to use one. I check every round I load on my progressive with my Mark One Eyeball for powder. For me its an unconscious act now. You are also less likely to load a squib on a progressive unless you run the powder drop dry, or it malfunctions, as the press generally needs to be run full stroke every round.

A pretty standard setup for a 5 station progressive is something like this:
Station 1: size and decap
Station 2: expander
Station 3: powder drop
Station 4: seater
Station 5: crimper

In order to add the check die or a bullet feeder you have to do one of a few things. You have to use a PTX expander in the powder drop, or you have to use a seater/crimper die. If you want to use a bullet feeder and a check die, you have to do both. Personally I think the PTX is easier to setup, especially with revolver cartridges that need a roll crimp. I do run a bullet feeder, so in my case I use a PTX in the powder drop and put it in station 2, put the bullet feeder in station 3, the rest is the same.

Dont discount having even a simple single stage press as well. Sometimes you need one.
Click to expand...


A very good post. There is a lot of info that pertains directly to what a 750 can/will do that a SDB cannot. Thank you for taking the time.

Of course, I won't fool with bullet feeders anytime soon and in fact, I imagine that I would initially run either press in the same way in an effort to overcome the learning curves. After I'm up to speed, I would probably appreciate the option of adding upgrades and features.

400 rounds per hour is plenty for me. Let's say it takes me an hour to change calibers, and three more hours to pump out 1000 rounds. I'd be happy with that output.

I had to Google "Mark One Eyeball". Lol!
 
cfullgraf said:
First, I like my SDB, actually make that plural, SDB's.

But, I like to make sure I got powder in the case. Short cases like 9x19, 45 ACP, and 380 ACP, are easy to visually check that the powder charge made it into the case.

A 38 Special case is tall enough that it is difficult to see into with the small space of the SDB. There may be some alternate ways to look in the case but I have not taken the time to investigate.

I just moved my 38 Special loading to a different progressive press. So, I'd recommend the 750 for 38 Special.

I change cartridges on my SDB's by unbolting one from the bench and bolting in a different one. That is why I have three. They stay set up. It is a bit more expensive than just the change parts kit, but fewer headaches and less time.
Click to expand...

Ah, this is why I ask my silly questions! It would have never occurred to me that a tall case would be harder to eyeball on a SDB. Let's say you screw down one of your SDBs, check the powder and primers, then get to loading. How many can you realistically get loaded in an hour (while keeping an eye on things and taking no chances...kinda like a new guy would have to do)?
 
TacticalJanitor said:
Ah, this is why I ask my silly questions! It would have never occurred to me that a tall case would be harder to eyeball on a SDB. Let's say you screw down one of your SDBs, check the powder and primers, then get to loading. How many can you realistically get loaded in an hour (while keeping an eye on things and taking no chances...kinda like a new guy would have to do)?
Click to expand...
SDB, with a prep case, and know what your doing, get in a good rhythm… 1 complete case every 15 seconds

But I do a Powder check QC & measurements QC every 20 rounds
 
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