I’m just getting into cleaning brass using SS media and I’m reading most people decap their brass first. Doesn’t this defeat the purpose in having a progressive reloading press? I mean really. I’m just not going to do it.
SS pins and decapping first
- Thread starter bluetopper
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dredd
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maxxhavoc
Member
I agree, I don't decap my brass first either. And I don't use the pins either. The pins mostly just clean inside the case and the primer pocket. The Wet Tumbler will clean the outside of the cases without them.
Depends on how long you're going to store your brass. Wet tumbled (and rain soaked) primers will seize in the pockets if left in the brass over a period of time. The walls of the primer will stay in the pocket when depriming, called a "ringer". If you plan on storing your brass I recommend removing the primers first.
FROGO207
Member
If you wet tumble with or without pins be dang sure the primers are bone dry before you run them through a progressive. I don't use a progressive but use a universal deprimer to remove the primer so the cases get as clean as possible. Also primer pockets that are empty dry out much faster. Then on to the next steps.
JEBruns
Member
For pistol, I wet tumble with primers in. So they are a one pass reload in my progressive press. But bottle neck case prep is more involved. Their first run through the press is to size and deprime. Once sized and trimmed, they'll get wet tumbled. I always use pins. Wet tumbling makes no sense to me otherwise. I'd dry tumble if I weren't going to use pins.
So what's this thread about then? Just telling us you're not going to do something? Ok, thanks.
Unless it somehow prevents simultaneous sizing, flaring, powder charging, bullet seating, and crimping, and, depending on the press, priming on a different part of the stroke, then no.
As has been said above, the cases dry faster and you don't find corrosion-welded primer ringers while running in progressive mode.
FWIW, I usually don't prime on-press for rifle cartridges. I resize using lanolin in isopropanol and clean that off the cases, prime in a hand primer, then charge, seat, and optionally crimp on the progressive. It should be OK to leave the lanolin on, but I don't like it. (IF Hornady One Shot worked well for rifle cases, that'd be another story.)
I thought the reasons for wet tumbling were to eliminate dust and clean inside the case AND clean the primer pockets. I don't see the benefit of using pins if you aren't going to deprime first. Seems it just adds another step for no real benefit.
chris
chris
Blue68f100
Member
The reason for depriming first, is to have the pins clean the primer pockets. Save you one step that is normally done by hand, so saves a lot of time. I use a universal deprimer for this process. with my LNL-AP w/brass feeder. It's very fast since you don't have to watch the 4 other stations (empty).
FROGO207
Member
In relation to my previous post I use a universal decapper on my brass I plan on reloading at the time of sorting and inspecting, when first handling them. Then clean, store, and eventually process to reload.
Trying to make my process clearer.
Trying to make my process clearer.
buddyd157
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i do not decap first.
i either clean the cases by walnut media somedays, or put them into a net and drop them into Iosso, rinse them, then put them into the Lyman dehydrator.
polish them and then,
store them for when i need to reload.
i do also put the spent primers into a coffee can, for when i take old or caliber brass i do not reload, or damaged brass to the salvage yard
King Medallion
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JEBruns
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Pins do a much better job of cleaning inside the cases, deprimed or not.
Right, I once bought some cleaned and bagged brass that was subject to ringers. And a friend brought me some range pickup that had been wetted for a while, same deal.
I am lazy, I walnut hull tumble and load full progressive for bulk pistol ammo. Rifle gets more care because it is shot carefully at more distant targets. BPCR gets the full treatment, decap at the range, bring back in soapy water, wet tumble and dry.
Varminterror
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Varminterror
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One super cheap option to keep a progressive reloader happy while still adopting a pre-wash decapping step is to use a Lee APP Deluxe. Throw a Dillon collator on top of a Lee APP-D and you can decap around 1000-1500 pieces per hour, then kick them into the wash.
Personally, I don’t use pins or chips any more, as brass comes out clean enough after simply tumbling, but I use the APP with Dillon feeder to decap, then I wash, dry, anneal, lube, and start loading.
Personally, I don’t use pins or chips any more, as brass comes out clean enough after simply tumbling, but I use the APP with Dillon feeder to decap, then I wash, dry, anneal, lube, and start loading.
jmorris
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If the intent is to pull a handle 100 times, once all stations are full and have 100 loaded rounds sitting there, it doesn't just defeat the purpose, it doubles the work you need to do.
You don't have to poke them out just clean and dry, then lube and load as normal.
That said, I do have a sorter (by primer pocket size) that has to decap them before it can do its job.
Auto decap and 45 ACP primer pocket sorter.
www.youtube.com
So now its a "why not" situation vs a "why" one...
WeekendReloader
Member
Sure, you can wet tumble with primers still in. You just need to be sure you allow the brass to dry completely before running them through a progressive press. Water can be trapped inside the primer cavity and take a long time to dry out.
If you are not going to deprime the brass, I suggest you also skip the SS pins. The brass will still be spotless on the outside and there would be no need to separate out the SS pins. Win-Win for you.
To each his own! Do what works best for you.
I deprime mine before I wet tumble them. But I do that before I put the brass in storage. It may be days, months or even years before I load it.
Varminterror
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I have wet tumbled with spent primers left in place, but I wouldn’t personally do so without a brass dryer. There is just too much opportunity for water to hang up and cause problems later in process. $65 for a dryer/dehydrator is cheap insurance.
Luckily there isn't a hard and fast rule that says that you HAVE to.
Count yourself lucky that you aren't running a automated progressive as most of them sort by headstamp and roll-size their cases before reloading
That is pretty much the reason for wet tumbling...with pins. Decapping first allows flow through the flash hole which usually results in cleaner cases and faster drying.
If you aren't going to deprime first, logic would seem to lean toward not using pins to clean and just allowing the chemicals and the abrasion of other cases to do the cleaning.
I don't deprime handgun cases prior to wet cleaning and don't use pins either
GW Staar
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I tried wet tumbling without removing the primers with a batch of .40 S&W. Mind you I'm in almost as dry as Arizona, New Mexico. I tried to reload it two days later.......what a mess! Still water in the pockets, and I wasn't too happy depriming/sizing on my Pro 2000 progressive. No I didn't have or use a dryer, nor did I lay it out in the Summer sun (it was like January). NEVER again. Yes...depriming is one of the main reasons I bought a Lee APP. Case feeder makes it way fast. No trouble at all.
Loading rifle is even better, especially since I will never get to own a 1050 with a built-in swager. Which brings up the second use I have for the APP, swaging military rounds after depriming and tumbling......again with the case feeder. Also what's not to like about never having to hand clean a pocket ever.
But carry on. We are all different and entitled to those differences.
Loading rifle is even better, especially since I will never get to own a 1050 with a built-in swager. Which brings up the second use I have for the APP, swaging military rounds after depriming and tumbling......again with the case feeder. Also what's not to like about never having to hand clean a pocket ever.
But carry on. We are all different and entitled to those differences.
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JEBruns
Member
Agreed. I bought one at the same time I bought my wet tumbler. I've never had any issues from water left over in un-deprimed brass, but I always use the dryer.
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